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Colin

Stuart 'Bilers

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This is ridiculous. Honestly, who has the time to call up friends to specifically trash some guy? [Roll Eyes] We are not competing with each other to see who's the hardman. Is there a vendetta we don't know about? You would have to be pretty pathetic to lie on a trip report on a website, and there is nothing to be gained by it. That alone is enough for me to believe the report, but it certainly isn' t the only reason. Nice climbing Colin, and thanks for the info.

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quote:

Originally posted by danielpatricksmith:

Have you noticed that people who haven't climbed shit resort to spouting their many years of climbing[?]

No. And I've been climbing for over twenty years. But during these years --what I remember of them (remembering to take Gingko is the hardest part)-- I've noticed a tradition of believing people's claims. Though there's been some notable exceptions with claims of first ascents: Refiner's Fire, South Face of Lhotse, McKinley. Why would someone lie? It's nonsensical. And perhaps more so to call bullshit on someone.

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One of the better books I have read along this topic line (who made the first summit or lieing about the summit) is called the Grand Controversy by Orrin H. Bonnie.

 

It is about the claimed first ascent of the Grand Teton. If you are familar with the Grand and have climbed the Owens Spaulding route it is a very good read and eye opening. I must admit it REALLY made me belive that there were others that reached the summit prior to Owens. It is very well written, researched, and dcoumented.

 

Basically, others had summited the peak many years prior and didn't think much of it, they reported it, but didn't thump thier chests. Owen then (about twenty yeras later) sets out to be the first. (Many had forgotten about the others' claims because they didn't pump themselves up). After many attempts Owen summitted and then set out to trash the other claimed summiters in order to have it be known he was first.

 

This Owen guy was a real piece of work and represents everything climbers of today try not to be (majority of us anyway). Good read, pick it up. [big Drink]

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As Alex and I continue to work on a guidebook about Ice Climbing in Washington State, periodically there are reports that make us raise our eyebrows. However, unfounded claims tend to fall apart when looked at closely.

 

For two days now people have been looking at this claim closely. As far as I'm concerned it holds up. People who have climbed with Colin support his ascent... This is a pretty key factor. People would NOT be vouching for him if they thought he was:

 

1) Making the story up.

 

2) Incapeable of such a feat.

 

3) Had a history of making up false trip reports.

 

Lastly Colin said something that is key to his defense -- not that I think he needs to be defended.

 

quote:

I just got back from showing my slides to a friend at Pro Mountain Sports, and some friends at Feathered Friends -- if you'd like to see them, I'd be happy to show them to you as well.


I've spent a little bit of time climbing as well. And it seems that periodically I run into people I know on the summits of mountains or on trails or wherever. Often I think my party is the only one there.

 

BUT I DIDN'T SEE ANY TRACKS!

 

This is primarily because I really wasn't looking for tracks. Generally I don't spend my time on the glaciers scouring them for tracks. And for some reason I doubt that those who would knock Colin's claim did either.

 

I don't really understand the animosity towards this climber. He made a claim... A claim I don't see as unreasonable and he has people who back him up. Those who would denouce such a claim don't hold much water.

 

Jason

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What I don't understand is why you didn't take shoes and do the gendarm. [big Grin] That is one of my favorite pitches.

Good climbing Colin!

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quote:

Originally posted by Bug:

What I don't understand is why you didn't take shoes and do the gendarm.
[big Grin]
That is one of my favorite pitches.

Good climbing Colin!

North Ridge was their plan B.

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How about a picture? They are, after all, worth a thousand words. I, for one, am skeptical. Conditions were less than ideal last weekend, and although my partner and I got an early start on our climb, and cramponed up hard snow, the team that came up behind us still found our spore. Lets see some evidence.

Additionally, although you've never heard of me, I am the Beast 666, and even the hardest of hardmen can't keep with me.

-God

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Get a grip on reality man. Do a little thinking huh!? For one, what in god's name would Colin have to gain by falsifying his account? Seems that everyone who knows him already has an extremely high opinion of him and his abilities, so he doesn't need to imprss them. The naysayers don't know him, and why would he care what they think anyway? Not like he's saying "I am Colin Lastnamehere, and I put up a new mixed route on the N side of Stuart...it's graded V 5.11+ WI7+ M8 but we did it in 4 hours car to car, now bow down to me gapers". What a bunch of ridiculous shit...why would you even give a flying fart about what someone else climbed unless you want beta from them? Geez.

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In the time it took me to type my post, and read additional posts, my attitude has gone from one of skepticism to "Who gives a fuck?" Colin seems convinced that he climbed it, good for him. When I was freaking out on acid in college, and the cops were dragging me out from underneath my roommate's bed, I was sure that I was being accosted by hill billies in their West Virginia cabin.

I think the main problem with detractors is their envy of the length of the Johnson on your average hardman. I feel for you Colin. I know your pain.

-God

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I'm not questionning Colin, but just for fun I'll point out that this particular climb has a history with at least one prior report being doubted. Jim Nelson was after it for several years, but I believe the first winter ascent was completed by George Sherrit and a Canadian partner whose name I don't remember. Some couldn't believe the report because the team apparently lacked the proper "resume" for such a venture.

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I saw the photo's last night(sweet). Colin seems too young and innocent to make this up, probably hasn't been corrupted by the likes of satans clan yet.

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I don't have a scanner at home, but there's one at school that I might be able to use. If I were to scan my slides onto the hard-disk at the school computer, how would I go about putting them onto the site -- do they need to be on a webpage?

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Colin, you should be able to take them directly from a disk and insert here with the .... method.

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Trask -

Is that a new feature? In the past, I've had to place images on my web page and insert the URL for the image between those tags. I think the reasons for this may have to do with (1) space is limited on the server for web host and (2) allowing users to download files directly may risk virus contamination.

Matt

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This is RURP.

I am familiar with "Agent Orange". He is from Eastern Europe and in my opinion is one of the most intense and skilled climbers living in the Northwest. I would compare him to Mr. Mark Twight as an expert alpinist. He stands for very little nonsense. If he is questioning this ascent, I believe it is because he believes that there is something seriously amiss.

-RURP has spoken.

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RURP,

 

If he is such an extreme climber, why didn't he make it up Stuart Glacier Couloir? He said that he got there too late on Saturday, so he camped and then hiked out on Sunday. Why didn't he climb it Sunday morning, if he's so extreme?

 

In any event, I'll try to post my pictures soon. Otherwise, I'll have a little 'public slide show,' and if you want to doubt my ascent, you'd better show up.

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All right . . . . sounds like a good ol' fashioned showdown. I got my money on Colin. Go get em' kid!!!!!!!!!!!

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I'd say, from my lofty perch in front of this computer, that the decison not to climb the colouir last sunday, with the freezing level forecasted to be above 10000', was appropirate for the occassion.

Also, I think Colin is trying to pull the old "I can't use a computer." ruse to weasel out of posting an image. If you can log onto this website, you should be able to post an image.

Forthwith...

lionsx1.gif

Cheers,

-The Devil

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Wow, what a thread. I've got a web site. Colin, email me a picture(s) and I'll post the URL to it here.

 

Good climb, Colin!!

 

--Michael

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This is RURP:

Mr. Colin: I met with one of the two other people ("DonkeyKong") who was with "Agent Orange" on Stuart. He told me that they had to talk Robert into turning around because they felt the conditions were dangerous and getting worse, although apparently it was within Robert's comfort zone. As a team of three, Robert went down along with his two other partners. I am not saying that you did not make your climb as you said you did; I was just adding some insight about this individual who questions your claim. It would be nice to post your pictures here and hopefully they will dispel doubts for those who have them.

RURP has spoken.

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FUCKING DO IT!!! FUCKING DO IT!!! JEEESUUUS!!! AAAAAHHHH!!!! GET OUT OF MY HEAD!!!!! GET OUT!!! GET OUT!!! YYNNNTTTHHHH!!!

BY THE GREAT GODS OF...

 

Seriously, though, it's time for us to end this acrimony, and to band together as Mountain Brothers and Hill Sisters. We all know that the only reason we do any of this is to be better than someone else, and to rub that fact in their shitty face.

 

If only Colin would recognise that his Slavic competitor, despite his homemade tin carabiners and his unsightly hand-crafted hob nail sneakers, is the harder Hardman, we could all live in peace.

Step out from behind your lies, Colin, so that we may build a better world, together, Godless Communists and Cumpulsive Liars alike.

-Dog

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quote:

Originally posted by RURP:

This is RURP.

I am familiar with "Agent Orange". He is from Eastern Europe and in my opinion is one of the most intense and skilled climbers living in the Northwest. I would compare him to Mr. Mark Twight as an expert alpinist.(snip) -RURP has spoken.

This is all a bit humorous (unfortunately at Colins and Marks expense)

 

But I'll bother to point out the obvious-

 

"Agent Orange's" one single post in life is a baseless slam on someone that ticked a sweet line in difficult conditions. With an attitude that that oozes envy and practically states that if AO couldn't climb, certainly no one else could.

 

Lets not forget that one party chose to do a line that offers protection from above, it IS a ridge after all, (hey, nice choice, considering temps and weather!)

 

The other party, "one of the most intense and skilled climbers living in the Northwest" choose a regular bomb-fest to "attempt". Amazingly, this climber decided to turn around so he could live to spray here, at our expense and waste of bandwidth (thanks alot [Roll Eyes] )

 

About the only thing I can see that they have in common is a bad attitude.

 

Colin left gear, easily verifiable and he has photos, that he will gladly share. What else is needed?

 

Bring em to Pub club at 38 Colin. I would like to see them. Nice work guys [smile]

 

Oh and rurp, I've read your contributions plenty. You really lend credibility to agentO [laf]

 

To the rest of you gapers nice troll.

 

Smoker

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Not that I give a shit about any of this banter but...

 

Why would anbody not believe Colin especially if he has pictures and gear?

 

Perhaps I missed something but: Donkeykong and agent orange: Went in and tried the couloir route, bailed, and then hiked out the next day correct?

 

If that is the case, they may be hardmen but they sure don't get any hardman points in my book. That hike out only takes a few hours even with big packs. Any hardman would have been able to make it back into Gustav's for a pint on the same day as bailing. Also a Cascade hardman would have known that it is not "heinous" to acess the North ridge from the ice cliff side, especially this time of year.

 

A few hours can make a huge difference in posthole depth and the tiniest wind blows crfystals across the glacier.

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