philfort Posted February 20, 2006 Posted February 20, 2006 then the snow turned to complete ass. Complete ass, like breakable crust on top of deep sugar? Quote
layton Posted February 20, 2006 Posted February 20, 2006 yuck, looks like shitty conditions to me. no blue streaks anywhere! Quote
mattp Posted February 20, 2006 Posted February 20, 2006 Jason is right about the face being very big. Even though the routes are not technical the whole way, it is pretty big anyway and the descent is not trivial. For the North Rib or the gully just left, there is a good bivvy spot at about one-third height, where the rib itself starts. Quote
olyclimber Posted February 20, 2006 Posted February 20, 2006 you mean this klenke? Â Â Cool picture for who ever that was up there, if it is a pair of climbers. Quote
climbaround Posted February 20, 2006 Posted February 20, 2006 Good eye Klenke, I think you're right. Here is a black & white crop of the top, I think you can just make out the rope. I was checking out the face off and on much of the day, hoping to see climbers, but never realized they were on it.  climbers in spindrift  Both times I've climbed it the snow turned tricky (powdery or crusted over sugar) up near the top - always the crux for me. As Mat says the descent is also long and difficult - the back side is steep and takes care, then you have to get back down the north bowl, I've always ended up raping by headlamp through the cliffy trees to the west. Quite a relief to be back on flat ground. Quote
plexus Posted February 20, 2006 Posted February 20, 2006 Apparently I head from a news friend in Seattle, Snohomish SAR is out at the Ice Caves as I type. Whaddya guys know? Quote
cfire Posted February 20, 2006 Posted February 20, 2006 I got a MSAR call this AM for a lost hiker on Dickerman. Maybe they are seting up there?? Quote
DPS Posted February 20, 2006 Posted February 20, 2006 If the two dots in photo taken by climbaround on the 19th, are indeed the climbers, then they did not move much since we last saw them at 3:00 pm on the 18th, suggesting they bivied in the couloir. That is just speculation of course. I am looking forward to a trip report. Quote
layton Posted February 20, 2006 Posted February 20, 2006 i'm looking foreward to my roommie coming home! come home pete, i've been keeping your bed warm sweetie~ Quote
kadyakerbob Posted February 20, 2006 Author Posted February 20, 2006 you guys think the conditions might be alittle better this weekend? never headed up there last weekend went to banff instead. Quote
kadyakerbob Posted February 20, 2006 Author Posted February 20, 2006 question, which way did you guys descend? any recommendations? Quote
layton Posted February 20, 2006 Posted February 20, 2006 you guys think the conditions might be alittle better this weekend? never headed up there last weekend went to banff instead. Â No offense dude, but the more you keep asking stupid questions like this, the more I would hold back beta. Quote
eric8 Posted February 20, 2006 Posted February 20, 2006 haha, its a small world. I climbed it yesterday with John Cooper aka SmilingWhiteKnuckles I believe. For those of you who where debating the conditions they are great. Get it before it dumbs again. We meet up with Bill and Pete on descent. Descend the face just before the gully which was dumb, but worked out okay. Bill when you read this I have your pocket knife pm your address and I'll mail it to you.  a couple photos   Quote
MtnHigh Posted February 21, 2006 Posted February 21, 2006 All is OK for Bill and me. We had to bivvy Saturday night ~600 from the top. Shivvered for 11 hours in a cave. Started climbing again in the morning and topped out Sunday at noon. Around 3pm on the descent the Snohomish County sherrif's chopper flew over, dropping us a radio. We let them know that we were OK and asked them to call my family back. Â John and Eric, thanks for the team work on the descent. The last rap over the cliffs in the dark was a spicy finish. Â Many thanks to the Search and Rescue folks who waited for us near the ice caves and to the Snohomish County sherrif's office for checking on us. All very cool folks. Quote
catbirdseat Posted February 21, 2006 Posted February 21, 2006 I'd heard that there was another fatality on Dickerman. I don't know anything beyond that. Quote
colt45 Posted February 21, 2006 Posted February 21, 2006 Here is a high resolution shot I got of the face yesterday. Big 4 2/19/06 Actually 4 climbers (2 pairs) seem to be visible in the photo, check it out: high-res version here Quote
mattp Posted February 21, 2006 Posted February 21, 2006 If that lower pair is a climbing team, they are going around what we found to be the crux of the couloir. I'm not being critical: depending on conditions, this might well be a sensible option and I have told folks that I thought there was a detour option at that point. Quote
eric8 Posted February 21, 2006 Posted February 21, 2006 oh damn we have been outed, there was a protected belay on the left side of the coulior, its amazing how much shit comes down the spindrift coulior when there is a party climbing above you. Plus it seemed a bit contrived to climb a grade 4ish pitch when there is a grade 3ish option still in the same coulior with a better belay half a rope length to the left Quote
eric8 Posted February 21, 2006 Posted February 21, 2006 actually looking at the photo I don't think we were that far left but whatever Quote
David Trippett Posted February 21, 2006 Posted February 21, 2006 actually looking at the photo I don't think we were that far left but whatever  looking at that photo it appears you took a rope....what happened hot shot? Quote
eric8 Posted February 21, 2006 Posted February 21, 2006 is this point where you challenge me to a weekend in squamish bachar style?? Quote
David Trippett Posted February 21, 2006 Posted February 21, 2006 not until i get that romantic weekend in Banff you promised sweetcakes...kisses. Quote
eric8 Posted February 21, 2006 Posted February 21, 2006 okay, just as long as there are no bouldery starts Quote
David Trippett Posted February 21, 2006 Posted February 21, 2006 don't worry...you can stand on my shoulders if there are....since you like to avoid cruxes..... Quote
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