Gorge Ice

[ryland_moore]

I'd agree with what Marcus and others have said. I spent from noon -3pm today scouting ice in the Gorge. I watched a large block fall from the upper left side of Crown Jewel (about the size of a bike) and could see water running underneath the lower right 1/3 of the falls. Smaller debris about the size of a softball came down regularly. The upper falls is thin with a lot of exposed rock and visible water running. It did not freeze in the Gorge last night and so has been melting continuously for over 24 hrs. Tonight is different as the colder temps have returned and the east wind is back now. There was no wind in the Gorge today. There is less ice in the Gorge than last Friday when I scouted. I hiked up from the Ainsworth campground and up the stream gulley to some climbs and saw what Maecus saw. It looked solid up higher but down low was not continuous. If the colder temps last a little longer and go back to what it was doing this weekend and late last week, then the ice will continue. I think I am going to postpone my climb until later in the week to assess the ice as I was pretty spooked when I saw the large block fall today on Crown. Especially since it was on the left side. Have fun out there but be safe. The ice will come to the Gorge again!

[AFIVE]

I was out at Mist Falls again last night. The ice was forming up quickly. It was really cold!! We had great ice with good visibility with the full moon and headlamps. Climbed until 2:00 am. The ampitheater up to the right of Multnomah Falls is getting close but is still a bit thin. I would imagine that CJ got a bit thicker last night and might be good to lead again. This weekend out there should be awesome. The stuff at Cape Horn is still looking good and the large flow above the highway there is looking pretty fat as well over on the Washington side. Happy hunting and whacking!!

[Ovr40]

Jim and I are planning to ditch work tomorrow and check out gorge ice. Drop a post or PM if you are interested in joining the expedition.

[ryland_moore]

Yeah, I came back through the Gorge last night and it was cold! Not as cold as south of the Dalles where I was working all day, but alot colder than the day before! I watched CJ for a while @4pm and it looked in a lot better condition than the day before. Ice at Ainsworth seems really promising, plus there just seemd to be more consolidation all around. It should be a good weekend! Now don't everyone pile up in a few areas. The further east you go, the better the ice gets! I found some potential first ascents on some remote BLM land yesterday and one has two free-hanging pillars each about 40 feet in height. They have both touched down, and with temps last night in the low teens in its location, it should be good to go this weekend. There is so much ice out there, go get it!

 

I will post about these areas I found after this weekend. It will be around for a while, it seems.

[Chad_A]

I was out at Mist Falls again last night. The ice was forming up quickly. It was really cold!! We had great ice with good visibility with the full moon and headlamps. Climbed until 2:00 am. The ampitheater up to the right of Multnomah Falls is getting close but is still a bit thin. I would imagine that CJ got a bit thicker last night and might be good to lead again. This weekend out there should be awesome. The stuff at Cape Horn is still looking good and the large flow above the highway there is looking pretty fat as well over on the Washington side. Happy hunting and whacking!!

 

Cool- I was out there on Tuesday and Wednesday a.m. It was great! Good place to warm up on for the first ice of the year. Got to hang out with some nice climbers. I wish we could've gotten more pics, but I don't think my digital would've put up with the constant spray of ice water. One of the pics is courtesy of Rodney, the other two from my g/f, Megan. Here's a few :

 

 

Chris and I wearing our suits of armor, here.

[Tydog]

Ice climbing by headlamp under a full moon. 'nuff said

 

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=15429&sort=1&cat=505&page=1

[Tydog]

Two More...

 

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=15427&size=big&sort=1&cat=505

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/show...=505&page=1

[Chad_A]

Sweet! Here ya go...

[Blake]

John and his G/f got a bunch of photos of the Wed mornin sessions at Misty Falls that myself, vw4ever, Donnv, and a few others were at. I think he can email you or post them when he gets back from vacation.

[Chad_A]

Thanks, Blake. You still in town? Or headed back to Bellingham?

[wayne]

Saw you get up the great Ainsworth Falls today.

The top of the route conditions were chandy when I got 20 feet from the top a decade ago. It was a highly sought after route and I raise my glass high to you guys!

We are going after the big Daddy tommorrow

[Alpinfox]

Can someone post a picture of great Ainsworth Falls?

 

Here is a pic of Ainsworth State Park I found:

 

 

And what is "The Big Daddy"? Multnomah?

 

 

I found this pic on the web. I don't think it is recent. Anybody climbed that ice?

caption: "Mosier Syncline, near Bingen, Washington"

[wayne]

Hope to tell you all about the "Big Daddy" tomorrow night.

[lcm]

Blake~will post photos from wed morning when John returns on Monday. They turned out pretty good.

[davidio]

Hey - a quick question from a new guy. I just moved here last week, and finally got out climbing this afternoon. We were at the wide ampitheater underneath an imposing (and constantly spitting) roof that was pictured in vw4ever's post. Is that Mist Falls? Sorry, i was too busy craning my neck at the ice to notice any signs for the falls . . . any help getting my bearings would be appreciated.

 

thanks - david

[DonnV]

We were at the wide ampitheater underneath an imposing (and constantly spitting) roof that was pictured in vw4ever's post. Is that Mist Falls?

David, yes, that is Mist Falls.

[marcus]

Climbed Ainsworth yesterday...awesome route. Did 3 60m pitches with simuling, would also work as 4-5p. Very long, techy last pitch(recommend 70m ropes if you don't wanna simul WI4). 60m v-threads the whole way now with rap sling on tree, climber's left at top. Get on it - routes like this in our backyard...hell yeah!

 

Got yer note Wayne - but I had to drive straight to work afterwards. Have fun!

[Alpinfox]

 

So what is the scoop on Ainsworth? Is it WI5? Got a picture? I don't have a guidebook for Oregon Ice (does one even exist)?

[iain]

good job coaxing H.B. out of his undisclosed location marcus hahaha

[MtnHigh]

Ainsworth Left

The tall flow on the right

Saturday 12/17

 

 

pitch 1

 

Bill

[wayne]

Got the big daddy today. Black Dagger was incredible. 5 pitches IV+- WI5+ -M4 .550 feet. It is the one picture on this this thread that was unidentified. I didnt want to attract attention to since it was in our sites. It was the best ice climb either of us had done. The position was out of this world! If Lane can figure out his camera he will post some photos.It is listed in Portland Rock Climbs as "Black Diamond" (potenial) Get after it Portland , this doesnt happen very often

[Tydog]

Went to Cape Horn today. Climbed above the highway. Parked on the left past the Cape Horn sign. We climbed what seemed to be the left most falls. According the Tim Olsen and WA Ice this would be Hanging Curtin but we did go up a gully to get to this climb which makes me think it must be Phantom Gully. After the first 80 or so feet there is another set of falls higher up. We only did the first falls. Anyway there are several possibilites here and well worth the drive. The approach sucked. Although close to the road it is quite a steep scramble to get there. We also saw a small curtain on the right most side that has an easy approach. We may try that tomorrow. I will post pic's later. Now its nappy time.

[Hal_Burton]

Bill

 

Oh God no Bill!

 

Sorry we didn't leave you more death-cicles on the last pitch. Those made it more interesting.

[Cobra_Commander]

 

that looks safe and relaxing

[BillA]

Bill

 

Oh God no Bill!

 

Sorry we didn't leave you more death-cicles on the last pitch. Those made it more interesting.

 

I broke my index finger on that fucking climb. The crazy part is, I have no idea how. That's right, I can't fucking move it and I have no feeling in the pad. It's super swollen and the nail is black as death. I have waves of pain that make me want to cry. Bye bye ice season...