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ryland_moore

Gorge Ice

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Was out there this morning to the Dalles and ice is forming up well. Driving back through this afternoon, it didn't change too much.

Not climbable yet, but if we can get cold temps for another week, it might just go. I will post pics later as I took some on the drive out. There does appear to be some lines'in' on the WA side up high just across from the Bonneville Dam. Have no idea how to get up there, but freezing level was there as the trees were all encrusted in snow/rime below these lines.

 

All of the main flows were still running water on the Oregon side and the other seeps just looked very thin and spicy, like chandeliers.

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I hiked Dog Mtn this morning (crazy wind/tons of snow) and saw the line across from Bonneville you mentioned - it looks like the hike might not be bad from hwy 14.

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It's in!! Climbed Friday afternoon on the slab up above the pond. I went out at 5:30 am to check out Crown Jewel and you need a slew of stubbies. The ice is deffinately climbable. We went back up to the slab and got pounded by the waterfall blowing on us from the nuking wind. We were quite crusted in ice. Really fun mushroom formations to play around on. You could find lines from WI2 to WI3+. Ainsworth Left looks like it's trying, but haven't walked up to it yesterday or today. Directly across from Angels rest trail head there is some good looking ice on the Washington side. Even in the sun it seems to be hanging out fine. Many of the flows near "thick enough to screw" were TRable for some thin techy mixed climbs. Have fun! I bet it's there for at least a week from now!!

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Several persons were on Mist Falls today, even though they got thoroughly coated in liguid ice.

Ainsworth Left...the lower 2/3 looks ready now. Just inspect with binoculars first. It is definitely cold enough for a cruise.

Dodson Icefall seems to be collecting also, but inspect with binoculars first.

Gathering Storm on the upper bluffs has part of it formed...perhaps 2/3 but not the very top section.

Brave New World...will this connect?

Cape Horn...some of it seems in...hard to tell from I-84.

Crown Point...way to go!

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Crown Jewel 12/12:

 

4479crown_jewel_resize.jpg

 

13 cm is the magic size... you'll be lucky to place anything longer then that more than once on the route.

 

Not sure how it will look after tonight with changing weather pattern.

 

Gate is unlocked... PLEASE close the gate behind you going in and out and make it look like it is locked (but DON'T lock it).

 

Get some wazzup.gifwave.gifyoda.gif

 

4479marcus_p2.jpg

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jeffh happened to be driving by today and caught us in the act… if you look close you can see Marcus’s orange helmet approx 1/4 the way up on the left side of the flow.

 

Thanks Jeff for snapping a pic and sending it to me! thumbs_up.gifwave.gif

 

4479Gorge_Ice_002.jpg

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I am looking for a partner in crime for Weds AM if things are still worthy. PM me if you're up for something.

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Went to run some laps this morning at Benson. We got there at 8am and although there was a lot of ice the temperature was warm. There was no wind so you could stay out of the waterfall spray. In fact it was so nice out I climbed in a tank top and a ice climbing thong. It was a soft shell thong, of course. By about 10am the shit was coming down pretty hard on either side of us. We had to duck some baseball size ice coming down on top of us. We got some laps in but it needs to get a little colder to keep the large shit from coming down on top of you.

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Just got back from checking shit out in the gorge. Crown Jewel looks like the best thing out there, although a bit thin at the top. This was in looking, but missing the bottom six feet or so, you could probably dry tool, it's the first obvious falls east of Multnomah. I went up to the base and there was some shit coming down. 73315074_f2e5bb3119_o.jpg

There is one big hard looking line behind Ainsworth campground that looks in, but thin and I couldn't see the base. Checked out Hamilton mountain with binoculars, it looks like there would be three independent absolutely stellar and difficult lines on it, but it would have to be super cold for a while for them to form up. The temps need to get cold again soon or everything is going to fall down.

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SHIT! The week I plan to go to Hyalite ice forms in the gorge madgo_ron.gif

 

Thanks for the update Ty!

 

whats the drive time from pdx to hyalite? why not go to the Rockies? cantfocus.gif

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BillA, thanks for the report and the photo. I think that is called black diamond in the pdx book. It looks so sick. Has it seen an ascent. Looked scary on sunday. Too wet. probably easiest to come in from the right on frozen moss.

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Hiked to base of Ainsworth Left today - dropping pretty substantial debris. Mid-30s at car, but felt much warmer higher up.

Drove further up the Gorge to a colder pocket where my partner styled a 50m line in WI4 condition out of the Starvation lot for his warm-up lead of the season.

40F with much visible route degradation since yesterday on the drive back...

 

Starvation: no

Cabin Creek: no

Lancaster: no

 

Edited by Marcus_Donaldson

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