COL._Von_Spanker Posted October 8, 2002 Posted October 8, 2002 The route was a good mixed test piece for me. Do you know much about the area? We climbed some of the spires on the western side of Eldorado, between eldorado and dorado needle, and I can't seem to find any info about them. Nothing like high alpine crag climbing. Quote
kevin Posted October 9, 2002 Author Posted October 9, 2002 Has anyone been on this route lately or checked it out from nearby? Is the ice "in"? I've heard the approach can be a bit tricky, anyone have any approach beta? thanks  [ 10-08-2002, 12:40 PM: Message edited by: kevin ] Quote
COL._Von_Spanker Posted October 9, 2002 Posted October 9, 2002 As of september 14th there was no Ice or snow and due to the still warm temperatures and conditions lately I would speculate there is no Ice.  If you want a fun route try the west(?) ridge, but not the one in the nelson book, it's not in any books. It's sort of a mixed climb and really fun. Here is a link to a site of someone elsewho climbed it and actually took the time to post about it  http://www.mtnphil.com/Eldorado2/Eldorado2.html Quote
Off_White Posted October 9, 2002 Posted October 9, 2002 yes, I've seen that report before, its totally great. The virgin beckey bit is truly inspired. Quote
David_Parker Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by kevin: Has anyone been on this route lately or checked it out from nearby? Is the ice "in"? I've heard the approach can be a bit tricky, anyone have any approach beta? thanks I am quickly learning that "in" is a very subjective term. Wayne and I went to do this route yesterday (10/13/02). We approached on Sunday and met two parties coming down who both said they looked at it and reported it was "definitely not in." We ended up going over to the N. Ridge and had an excellent view into the upper section. Needless to say we were kicking ourselves for listening to our fellow climbers than our own judgement. In our opinions this climb is definitely "in". Thin, but in. Â The conditions of the route matched exactly our EXPECTATIONS of what would be there and therefore our assessment of "in". Unfortunately we were swayed by repots of "not much ice and lots of powdery snow." True there is snow, but it is quite consolidated on the northern aspects as evidenced by the quite solid upper snow/ice face immediately above the termination of the couloir. There was ice, not thick, but it seemed there would be occaisional screw placements as well as rock pro. This is a mixed climb. I don't relly know who we talked to; perhaps they expected a blue streak as often seen in the Canadian Rockies. But I think they will wait a long time before that happens. In fact I think right now there is NOT too much snow and when the next big dump comes, then the route will be "out" for the rest of the season. So if you are realistic about what to expect and are comfortable on a thin (but in) alpine ice climb, I hope someone ticks it soon. You can pm me for further approach beta. At least we have that down for next time! Quote
layton Posted October 17, 2002 Posted October 17, 2002 Has anyone actually done the coulior route in Selected Climbs Vol II? I approached once via sibley creek and got lost two years ago, and tried eldorado creek and got dumped on two years ago. I have since given up after 2nd hand info of a 2nd ascent which was guided by an AAI guide. It seems like it's way short and if it was guided??? I don't want to speculate since I haven't done it, but it looks pretty short and none too difficult. Seems like a scenery climb with a short burst of climbing effort. I am not knocking this climb or anyone that's done it, but I'd like some info from someone who's done it to get the thumbs up. I was thinkin' of doing it in a couple weeks or posibly soloing it. Quote
Alex Posted October 17, 2002 Posted October 17, 2002 michael, seems to me Dave Parker is saying he climbed the route you are talking about, in his previous post Quote
layton Posted October 17, 2002 Posted October 17, 2002 I gathered that he didn't do it from his post and wish that he did. Quote
Alex Posted October 17, 2002 Posted October 17, 2002 oh, re-reading, you are right, I thought they actually did it (knowing wayne, in fact, I was just assumed that had done it ) Quote
COL._Von_Spanker Posted October 17, 2002 Posted October 17, 2002 I had a dream about doing it, does that count? Quote
DPS Posted October 23, 2002 Posted October 23, 2002 Has anbody seen it recently? I'm curious what effect the precipitation has had on the route. Quote
wayne Posted October 24, 2002 Posted October 24, 2002 Dan ,You should take a couple of pins and send it , there wasnt that much precip,so it should be ok to great conditions right now. Just take gaiters, what was I thinking? Quote
Ade Posted October 24, 2002 Posted October 24, 2002 Oooh... Tempting. This w/e maybe if the weather holds. Quote
Skisports Posted October 24, 2002 Posted October 24, 2002 don't forget that you need precip to do the route or the verglass will not be in Quote
Alex Posted October 28, 2002 Posted October 28, 2002 Ade and I went up for an unsuccessful go this past weekend. PM/e-mail us for beta if you like. Quote
David_Parker Posted October 28, 2002 Posted October 28, 2002 How about a little more info. Did you make it all the way to the base of the climb? What made you turn back? Inquiring minds want to know! Quote
Ade Posted October 28, 2002 Posted October 28, 2002 Looked at route from base of N Ridge on Sat PM after approaching and ditching our bivvi gear at the base of the E Ridge. Could see the bottom third, which looked mostly like neve with some rock steps. Â Sunday night the weather bailed, warm, windy with some snow. Didn't look like getting any better do we headed down. Made it to the trailhead before the rain started for real. Â I'm guessing the upper section of the route had more ice in it and so it would go. By the looks of the base of the route nobody has actually been down there to have a look see recently (no tracks). Â If I can't find anything better to do I just might have to go back and try again but I doubt the ice will be as fat as the picture in Nelson 2, for which a big warm rainstorm followed by a hard freeze seems to be required. Â Unless you guys could see a whole lot more from higher on the N Ridge? Quote
Ade Posted November 26, 2002 Posted November 26, 2002 Anyone up that way this last w/e? How much new snow and where does it start? Quote
Ade Posted November 26, 2002 Posted November 26, 2002 I do have time, figure I can get out Wednesday if I can find someone for the other end of the rope. Quote
jordop Posted November 26, 2002 Posted November 26, 2002 Layton's been wantin on that thing for a while now, PM him . . . Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted November 26, 2002 Posted November 26, 2002 quote: Originally posted by jordop: Layton's been wantin on that thing for a while now, PM him . . . Just bring the Winstons cigs and a bottle of whiskey when you meet and he will be game Quote
layton Posted November 27, 2002 Posted November 27, 2002 Busy climbing, sorry. I've attemped it twice in the past two or three years so I feel the pain too. Â [ 11-27-2002, 12:26 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ] Quote
Colin Posted November 30, 2002 Posted November 30, 2002 Soloed the NW Couloir today. There were five other climbers approaching the base as I topped out, so there's likely to be other reports as well. I used the approach in Selected Climbs, which works fine, although at least two of the other climbers dropped down directly into the Marble drainage from the Inspiration Glacier, which could be quite faster. The climb itself was in excellent condition, with neve wherever there wasn't ice; I'd estimate it to be WI2+/WI3-. As long as this high pressure sticks around, the climb will probably remain in great shape. Quote
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