Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
kevin

Eldorado NW couloir conditions??

Recommended Posts

The route was a good mixed test piece for me. Do you know much about the area? We climbed some of the spires on the western side of Eldorado, between eldorado and dorado needle, and I can't seem to find any info about them. Nothing like high alpine crag climbing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Has anyone been on this route lately or checked it out from nearby? Is the ice "in"?

I've heard the approach can be a bit tricky, anyone have any approach beta?

thanks

 

[ 10-08-2002, 12:40 PM: Message edited by: kevin ]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As of september 14th there was no Ice or snow and due to the still warm temperatures and conditions lately I would speculate there is no Ice.

 

If you want a fun route try the west(?) ridge, but not the one in the nelson book, it's not in any books. It's sort of a mixed climb and really fun. Here is a link to a site of someone elsewho climbed it and actually took the time to post about it

 

http://www.mtnphil.com/Eldorado2/Eldorado2.html

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by kevin:

Has anyone been on this route lately or checked it out from nearby? Is the ice "in"?

I've heard the approach can be a bit tricky, anyone have any approach beta?

thanks

I am quickly learning that "in" is a very subjective term. Wayne and I went to do this route yesterday (10/13/02). We approached on Sunday and met two parties coming down who both said they looked at it and reported it was "definitely not in." We ended up going over to the N. Ridge and had an excellent view into the upper section. Needless to say we were kicking ourselves for listening to our fellow climbers than our own judgement. In our opinions this climb is definitely "in". Thin, but in.

 

The conditions of the route matched exactly our EXPECTATIONS of what would be there and therefore our assessment of "in". Unfortunately we were swayed by repots of "not much ice and lots of powdery snow." True there is snow, but it is quite consolidated on the northern aspects as evidenced by the quite solid upper snow/ice face immediately above the termination of the couloir. There was ice, not thick, but it seemed there would be occaisional screw placements as well as rock pro. This is a mixed climb. I don't relly know who we talked to; perhaps they expected a blue streak as often seen in the Canadian Rockies. But I think they will wait a long time before that happens. In fact I think right now there is NOT too much snow and when the next big dump comes, then the route will be "out" for the rest of the season. So if you are realistic about what to expect and are comfortable on a thin (but in) alpine ice climb, I hope someone ticks it soon. You can pm me for further approach beta. At least we have that down for next time! [Wink]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Has anyone actually done the coulior route in Selected Climbs Vol II? I approached once via sibley creek and got lost two years ago, and tried eldorado creek and got dumped on two years ago. I have since given up after 2nd hand info of a 2nd ascent which was guided by an AAI guide. It seems like it's way short and if it was guided??? I don't want to speculate since I haven't done it, but it looks pretty short and none too difficult. Seems like a scenery climb with a short burst of climbing effort. I am not knocking this climb or anyone that's done it, but I'd like some info from someone who's done it to get the thumbs up. I was thinkin' of doing it in a couple weeks or posibly soloing it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

michael, seems to me Dave Parker is saying he climbed the route you are talking about, in his previous post

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

oh, re-reading, you are right, I thought they actually did it (knowing wayne, in fact, I was just assumed that had done it [Wink] )

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Has anbody seen it recently? I'm curious what effect the precipitation has had on the route.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dan ,You should take a couple of pins and send it , there wasnt that much precip,so it should be ok to great conditions right now. Just take gaiters, what was I thinking? [Confused]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ade and I went up for an unsuccessful go this past weekend. PM/e-mail us for beta if you like.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looked at route from base of N Ridge on Sat PM after approaching and ditching our bivvi gear at the base of the E Ridge. Could see the bottom third, which looked mostly like neve with some rock steps.

 

Sunday night the weather bailed, warm, windy with some snow. Didn't look like getting any better do we headed down. Made it to the trailhead before the rain started for real.

 

I'm guessing the upper section of the route had more ice in it and so it would go. By the looks of the base of the route nobody has actually been down there to have a look see recently (no tracks).

 

If I can't find anything better to do I just might have to go back and try again but I doubt the ice will be as fat as the picture in Nelson 2, for which a big warm rainstorm followed by a hard freeze seems to be required.

 

Unless you guys could see a whole lot more from higher on the N Ridge?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Anyone up that way this last w/e? How much new snow and where does it start?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I do have time, figure I can get out Wednesday if I can find someone for the other end of the rope.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by jordop:

Layton's been wantin on that thing for a while now, PM him . . .

Just bring the Winstons cigs and a bottle of whiskey when you meet and he will be game [big Drink][laf]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Busy climbing, sorry. I've attemped it twice in the past two or three years so I feel the pain too.

 

[ 11-27-2002, 12:26 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Soloed the NW Couloir today. There were five other climbers approaching the base as I topped out, so there's likely to be other reports as well. I used the approach in Selected Climbs, which works fine, although at least two of the other climbers dropped down directly into the Marble drainage from the Inspiration Glacier, which could be quite faster. The climb itself was in excellent condition, with neve wherever there wasn't ice; I'd estimate it to be WI2+/WI3-. As long as this high pressure sticks around, the climb will probably remain in great shape.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×