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Posted

1. losing weight

I'm no longer stuck in 5.8

2. Ultimate Frisbee

After sprinting for an hour 3x a week, lumping a big pack anywhere doesn't seem so bad.

3. Hangboard

I can stick those crimpers now

Posted

Learning to place good gear quickly and efficiently and even more importantly not being afraid to take a fat whip instead of coughing one in and taking (though I still wimp out from time to time cry.gif).

 

For the most part I still suck though.

Posted

you don't count...you have kubiak style genes...

 

I lift a freakin' ton, both pulling and pushing, relative to my weight...so "big muscle" is not an issue...mine is my wussy wussy finger strength...

Posted

Perfecting the fart release technique while pulling hard

Adding new vocabulary to my profanities

New and improve flailing techniques

And most of all having a partner fatter then I to hoist me while I am hang dogging

Posted
Persistance.

 

And new shoes that didn't have wiggle room in the toes (Mythos STRETCH).

 

Ditto.

 

I have been climbing in the same old shoes forever. Buddies even started making fun of me. I finally got chided into buying new shoes, and I got those Mythos too. Couldn't believe the difference!! I used to try to muscle my way through crack climbing fiascos, and now, I actually use my feet.

 

But yeah, I still suck.

Posted

Do you lift for power? Low rep sets, and tons of them? I mean like three or four reps, often two, and then maybe ten or twelve sets total per exercise. From 60% of max on the five rep sets, working to 90% or 95% on the two rep sets, Then back down again. You see, it's really scientific Rudy.

 

Timed hangs on crimps, then work up to campusing crimps (build a campus board with them; no campus boards I see have small enough rungs).

 

"Wussy wussy finger strength...."? Hah, haven't you climbed 13+? Such a wussy!

Posted
Do you lift for power? Low rep sets, and tons of them? I mean like three or four reps, often two, and then maybe ten or twelve sets total per exercise. From 60% of max on the five rep sets, working to 90% or 95% on the two rep sets, Then back down again. You see, it's really scientific Rudy.

 

Timed hangs on crimps, then work up to campusing crimps (build a campus board with them; no campus boards I see have small enough rungs).

 

"Wussy wussy finger strength...."? Hah, haven't you climbed 13+? Such a wussy!

 

I can only climb 13-ish on techy routes with footwork and bashing them with six million tries...put me on a newschool bouldering on steep shiznet that involves open handedness and i don't have a prayer of getting my feet off the ground (or arse, as it may be)...

 

I like your ideas on campusing/fingerboards etc.

 

Regarding lifting, i lift for 3 months out of the year...5 sets of 4-7 reps with complete failure occuring on the last set, so i'd say its power-based...not enduro or even power enduro...

Posted
Do you lift for power? Low rep sets, and tons of them? I mean like three or four reps, often two, and then maybe ten or twelve sets total per exercise. From 60% of max on the five rep sets, working to 90% or 95% on the two rep sets, Then back down again. You see, it's really scientific Rudy.

 

Timed hangs on crimps, then work up to campusing crimps (build a campus board with them; no campus boards I see have small enough rungs).

 

"Wussy wussy finger strength...."? Hah, haven't you climbed 13+? Such a wussy!

 

Rumr is so scientific about it that he wears a lab coat when he lifts.

 

But the lifting strategy you mention here will actually impact strength more than power. But its all good. thumbs_up.gif

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