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Posted
In that case, my favorite climb is called "Shit Infection" It's a mega-hard ultra-shit-yourself testpiece on Around the Wayback Buttress. Characterized by steep drytooling on frozen moss and tied off loose blocks for pro. Belays were on #0 RP's and half-in talons. If we had tools and 'poons it might have been M9 R, but in rock shoes and wool gloves it was nothing less than a horror show. Thank god there was a sheep at the top.

 

You used pro for this climb? I just carried the rope for the extra wieght.

Posted
In that case, my favorite climb is called "Shit Infection" It's a mega-hard ultra-shit-yourself testpiece on Around the Wayback Buttress. Characterized by steep drytooling on frozen moss and tied off loose blocks for pro. Belays were on #0 RP's and half-in talons. If we had tools and 'poons it might have been M9 R, but in rock shoes and wool gloves it was nothing less than a horror show. Thank god there was a sheep at the top.

 

You used pro for this climb? I just carried the rope for the extra wieght.

 

Surprising. I thought the weight of your ego alone would have pulled you off the V10 boulder start.

  • 5 years later...
Posted

The move right off the ground is pretty nice, not not as nice as the moves onto the tower. My favorite part is the second half of pitch 2 on the direct, not the direct direct, but the left variation of the 3 regular directs. Best move is the ones above the belay on p3.

Posted

I was just thinking today how nice that East Face line up Liberty Bell is. Crank that grade 5 in a day and you get a wide variety of free and aid with an amazing view from the top that is sure to put a smile on your face.

Posted

There are many classics that I've yet to do, but from the list of what I've done, this is my favorite:

 

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LowerRouteCampbell.jpg

 

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Perfect weather, awesome partner, required good all-around skills, and was a true adventure (by my definition).

  • 2 weeks later...

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