Another Clusterf*ck on OS Sunday

[TimL]

I guess people could be a solid single pitch 5.9 leader, but throw in some exposure and route finding and they move slow as snails. Happens to everybody as some point.

[minx]

i doubt anyone goes out of their way to hold up a group. but sometimes you say wtf! this is a good day to climb route XXX. Sure enough you get there. you get worked harder than you expect and you climb slower than you and those behind you would like. it doesn't sound like anyone was denied an opportunity to pass this group.

 

we spent 6 hours on R&D one day behind a slow group of 3. we decided that as annoying as it was that it would make their group uncomfortable if passed them en route. we decided to chill out and enjoy the beautiful day. we had planned on a lot more pitches but sometimes you just gotta adapt. sheesh!

[foraker]

On the few times I've been on a route and someone was obviously moving quite quickly and caught up with me, I've gladly let them pass. No drama. THe only time I have been bothered by slow climbers is when doing a popular route like Nutcracker in Yosemite. It's not the slow climbers that are the problem, it's the f-wit who brings two or three of his non-climber friends with him on one of the more popular routes and has to do all the leading (including having to keep his friends from freaking out because they've never really climbed before). Then there's the ones that ask if they can pass and then end up not being any faster than you....

[E-rock]

Uhhhh last I checked being a "competent 5.9 climber" isn't a feat that merits "competent 5.9 climber" snobbery.

[thelawgoddess]

Uhhhh last I checked being a "competent 5.9 climber" isn't a feat that merits "competent 5.9 climber" snobbery.

[dberdinka]

Hey dumbdink-A...

 

OUCH!

[Dustin_B]

Dustin,

How far did you go on Champagne? Did you go to the top of SCW? The traversing along the top of the formation there is awesome. What did you think of the route?

 

I got some great pics of MattP, Dryad, and CBS on OS when Bug and I did Champagne at the last Leavenworth rope up. I think I posted one or two on here.

 

BTW: George Dubya is an evil dumbass. Just thought I'd throw that in.

 

We stopped at the large ledge above the last of the chicken heads. The next pitch would have been a chimney type thing but it started to rain and we knew it would take a while to get down the route (3 of us). So we bailed from there. I think above the Chimney was the top, no?

 

That route is awesome. I didn't so much like the approach gulley. We had to rope up for this one part of it which slowed us down. Then it took us 3 single rappels to get down the gully on the way out! Felt like an alpine climb. I would definitely still do it again though. All those huge chicken heads are incredible. Fun stuff!!

[catbirdseat]

We stopped at the large ledge above the last of the chicken heads. The next pitch would have been a chimney type thing but it started to rain and we knew it would take a while to get down the route (3 of us). So we bailed from there. I think above the Chimney was the top, no?

I believe that there are perhaps as many as two more short pitches after the 5.6 chimney. AlpinFox, correct me if I am wrong. I haven't actually done them. Somebody ought to come up with a name for it. It's like a big clam. The chimney is fun on lead, but less fun if you are following with a pack.

[Gary_Yngve]

The chimney is fun on lead, but less fun if you are following with a pack.

 

For a route like that, why would you need a pack?

[fear]

Where else are you going to stash the beer?

 

-Fear

[Szyjakowski]

We stopped at the large ledge above the last of the chicken heads. The next pitch would have been a chimney type thing but it started to rain and we knew it would take a while to get down the route (3 of us). So we bailed from there. I think above the Chimney was the top, no?

I believe that there are perhaps as many as two more short pitches after the 5.6 chimney. AlpinFox, correct me if I am wrong. I haven't actually done them. Somebody ought to come up with a name for it. It's like a big clam. The chimney is fun on lead, but less fun if you are following with a pack.

there is one pitch after the chimney, which is IMHO part of champagne...hard to believe Fred (FA?) would bypass a chimney and go down. doubt he would remember though. SCW ridge traverse is sweet, would like to do it again someday.

[ken4ord]

All I have to say is the early bird gets the worm. You should be smart enough to know that if you try to jump on one of the most classic, moderate routes in Washington on a weekend then unless you wake up at the crack of dawn you'll be behind a lot of people and some that will be slow. Maybe if your cool then you can pass, but I would not expect it. I hate to be behind slow parties as well, but just wait until you are the slow ones then you will understand.

 

Yeah you can do it that way if you like getting up early. The other way is to do is it to hit some other crags in the morning and cruise up there in the afternoon. Usually after noon people are well on their way. You show up at the base and there is no line just go up for a nice afternoon/evening climb.

[Thinker]

A planned topping out on OS in the dark is really quite nice. It's the scramble down the dark gully that reeks, even with headlamps.

[RichTurley]

This is one reason I don't golf. Too worried about holding up the foursome behind me!

 

Rich

[Alpinfox]

We stopped at the large ledge above the last of the chicken heads. The next pitch would have been a chimney type thing but it started to rain and we knew it would take a while to get down the route (3 of us). So we bailed from there. I think above the Chimney was the top, no?

I believe that there are perhaps as many as two more short pitches after the 5.6 chimney. AlpinFox, correct me if I am wrong. I haven't actually done them. Somebody ought to come up with a name for it. It's like a big clam. The chimney is fun on lead, but less fun if you are following with a pack.

there is one pitch after the chimney, which is IMHO part of champagne...hard to believe Fred (FA?) would bypass a chimney and go down. doubt he would remember though. SCW ridge traverse is sweet, would like to do it again someday.

 

I have a terrible memory for routes, so I'm gonna guess that Szyjakowski is correct. Perhaps Bug will chime in on this thread and clarify, but he hasn't been around in a while.

 

I haven't climbed a lot of chimneys, but that one on Champagne was fun and protectable with small cams & nuts. Great smoking ledge at the top of the route and then the fantastic SCW ridge traverse (not to be missed!).

 

Regarding the nasty approach gully - yup, it's nasty and when I did it we roped up for a few moves as well.

[catbirdseat]

Damn, Pax, you got me all excited to do that route again!

[Dru]

What is the speed record for Outer Space, BTW?

[ScottP]

Personal or all-time?

[Dru]

That depends on if there were three independent witnesses and a GPS record.

[E-rock]

Dude how can you GPS yourself on a cliff? You stay in one place.

[Dechristo]

GPS calculates elevation as well as long/lat

[TheOtter]

Someone otter do a human+dog speed ascent.

 

Maybe with one of these?:

 

Otters on SCW? OH MY GOD!!!

[mec]

GPS for elevation ain't that accurate, if I remember right...

[Cobra_Commander]

It can be very accurate in certain situations.

[Dru]

Hunan dog speed ascent? That's some serious puppy chow.