tomtom Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 My apologies to all the other climbers on OS today. Neither my partner nor I had climbed this route before, so we struggled with route finding, especially since we were first on route and had no one to follow. Also my climbing sucks and I was reeeel slow on the traverse pitch. My car-to-car time was 13.5 hrs. Again, I hope everyone got off before dark. At least it was a nice sunny day to be hanging out on the rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 Damn Dude, a little late. It is pretty easy say to the party below, "Sorry were slow, do want to pass?" Hell you might have actually climbed the route faster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 i don't think there's any point in rushing people when they're climbing. not only is it a dangerous endeavor, but it should be fun for those involved ... and not everybody is out to break records. route-finding is part of climbing, and getting spanked on routes is also part of climbing. and if people are going to climb a popular route like this they should be prepared for crowds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 Oh, that was you! We were looking at party through binoculars from the Snow Lake Trail and were wondering how the hell someone could get off-route on pitch 5! Well, apparently, it can be done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mec Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 I agree TLG. but I also know that this thread is going to go on with people saying that people like tomtom should stay off popular routes until they can climb 5.12 and can just cruise through OS without any thought to make sure that everyone has a great time on the climb. Way to go tomtom, hope you had a good time, even though you struggled a bit... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 hope you had fun. sooner or later everybody slows somebody down. hopefully, if the parties below you were irritated they politely asked to pass. no worries on that! (not that i was there--i just know i've been slow before) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crackalicious Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 If you never do climbs that are challenging for you, how in the hell would you improve?? If someone wants to pass you that bad, they will ask. By the way, how many people have climbed OS on a weekend and not encountered crowds? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 You can climb Outer Space on a sunny weekend in October without crowds, but at this time of year you should expect a lineup. Because the route is relatively moderate, has good belay ledges and is so well known, lots of people use that climb as an opportunity to "get the kinks out" of their system and if there are any parties in front of you there is a great chance that at least one of them is going to be "slower than average." Passing in the middle of the route may or may not be a good idea but, whatever you do, you should be prepared to spend a lot of time waiting around and you should also be ready to be gracious about it when the "other guy" does something you don't approve of. Anybody not willing to share the route with parties either faster or slower than them, or just lots of other parties, should climb something else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thinker Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 real climbers don't have 9-5 jobs and don't climb popular routes on the weekends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 i don't think there's any point in rushing people when they're climbing. not only is it a dangerous endeavor, but it should be fun for those involved ... and not everybody is out to break records. I think Tomtom was trying to break the "slowest party on route" record. But did he have third-party witnesses and timers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin_B Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 Not only on Sunday. We were on Champagne on Saturday and got to watch the excitement on OS unfold. There were no less than 6 parties on that route. It was jam packed the whole day (well at least from about noon on when we got up there...). Every pitch I could see had climbers on it at one point. Then only the upper pitches were packed as it became too late to start the route. One party of 2 or 3 turned around at 2-tree ledge. The last party topped out in the pouring rain around 6:30-7 PM!! Its a good thing the 1 or 2 parties below them turned around. shit. We were hoping that last party got down okay as we passed their packs at the base on the way out. I got some cool pics of OS from up on Champagne I'll try to post at some point. What a cool place to check out OS from PS - no one else on Champagne besides us.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 Dustin, How far did you go on Champagne? Did you go to the top of SCW? The traversing along the top of the formation there is awesome. What did you think of the route? I got some great pics of MattP, Dryad, and CBS on OS when Bug and I did Champagne at the last Leavenworth rope up. I think I posted one or two on here. BTW: George Dubya is an evil dumbass. Just thought I'd throw that in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdietsch Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 There were no less than 6 parties on that route. It was jam packed the whole day (well at least from about noon on when we got up there...). Every pitch I could see had climbers on it at one point. Then only the upper pitches were packed as it became too late to start the route. One party of 2 or 3 turned around at 2-tree ledge. The last party topped out in the pouring rain around 6:30-7 PM!! sounds like an accident just waiting to happen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 Based on the weekly cc.com damage report it would seem a traffic cam would be appropriate, if only for the entertainment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 By the way, how many people have climbed OS on a weekend and not encountered crowds? Just leave the car so that you get to the base at dawn. Even if you are slow generally people don't show up until 8:30 at the earliest so no worries about pissing people off. I have always had the route to myself in the winter... weekend or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 yeah, but then you have to pack an extra windshirt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 Windshirts are aid beeyotch! Where you at smith this weekend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 no...but i was in the area... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 I think I spotted Dru. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 oh? Do tell! How were the crowds? Heinous i guess... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 what was the tocque density around him Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 Heard just past cling on and desperate man: "Dru!!!!! SLACK!" Could it be??? Crowds weren't too bad if you know where to hide... it was a canadian holiday or some shit. I goddamn heard "aye" or what ever the fuck it is enough times I'm saying it. I'll say this: canadians suck at picking girls up. Didn't have to worry about my patagonia top getting grabbed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 i don't think there's any point in rushing people when they're climbing. not only is it a dangerous endeavor, but it should be fun for those involved ... and not everybody is out to break records. route-finding is part of climbing, and getting spanked on routes is also part of climbing. and if people are going to climb a popular route like this they should be prepared for crowds. being slow doesn't mean you have to be a dumb ass dick and block everyone behind. and learning to climb is also learning when to bail. if you don't know how to route find and climb a milti pitch i don't think a popular multi pitch route is a good place to practice on a weekend. i, for one have as much right to climb over slow party as they right to be slow. and endlesly wait behind slow moving dill weeds on a route any competent party can climb in 2-3 hours i can hardly call "fun". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 (edited) no bob...you don't have that right...you have the right to ask to pass...and i have the right to refuse... if you ask and i'm not comfortable for whatever reason, i will flat ass pull you off the rock and beat the living hell out of you if you try... Edited May 23, 2005 by RuMR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squid Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 Well, let's see how many new & original posts we can lure out with this new & oringal topic. CC.COM: Never hestitate to belabor the obvious Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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