billcoe Posted January 27, 2005 Posted January 27, 2005 I've hacked ice with tools, but never rock. It seems to me that the potential to permanently trash the rock is very high. I see people top-rope climbing with dry-tools on the very routes I enjoy rock climbing, and it seems to be gathering critical mass and grow in size. I'm wondering what people's opinions are on this? Harmful or not? Should be done, or not? What do you think? Bill Quote
carolyn Posted January 27, 2005 Posted January 27, 2005 out here we almost specifically drytool on DT routes. We avoid rock climbing routes because, well, we enjoy climbing the rock without tools as well. Quote
John Frieh Posted January 27, 2005 Posted January 27, 2005 Agreed. DT is only acceptable on DT routes. Even one or two people (not a critical mass) will seriously alter a route especially if they are new to drytooling as their footwork generally sucks. DT should not be done on rock routes regardless of how dirty/mossy/gritty it is. Quote
John Frieh Posted January 27, 2005 Posted January 27, 2005 Just thing how crazy Dwayner is going right now not having the chance to whine about the evils of drytooling and how much damage it brings. Hey D! Quote
rat Posted January 27, 2005 Posted January 27, 2005 Agreed. DT is only acceptable on DT routes. DT should not be done on rock routes regardless of how dirty/mossy/gritty it is. bullshit. Quote
rhyang Posted January 27, 2005 Posted January 27, 2005 out here we almost specifically drytool on DT routes Dumb question - how do you find such routes ? Is it a word-of-mouth kind of thing ? Quote
NYC007 Posted January 27, 2005 Posted January 27, 2005 There are a bunch DT routes in spokane but most people dont know or dont climb there. Quote
John Frieh Posted January 27, 2005 Posted January 27, 2005 out here we almost specifically drytool on DT routes Dumb question - how do you find such routes ? Is it a word-of-mouth kind of thing ? Depends on the area... there are guidebooks for DT areas but mostly Colorado and CAN. Around here it seems mostly word of mouth... where are you looking? Hey NY! Do you have beta for those routes? Location/directions? Rating? Quote
Ireneo_Funes Posted January 27, 2005 Posted January 27, 2005 OK, Rocky Butte for example. How are you deciding what's a dry-tool route vs. a rock route? Quote
John Frieh Posted January 27, 2005 Posted January 27, 2005 If it’s in the guidebook I stay off it even if the guidebook says avoid the route because its crap. If it isn't in the guidebook but looks like someone might want to climb it at some point I stay off it. Never hurts to get a second opinion when deciding this. If it isn't in the guidebook and is choss then I climb it. If you want a guide to rocky or other spots in PDX let me know. Or better: come on out! Quote
Ireneo_Funes Posted January 27, 2005 Posted January 27, 2005 I figured that was the criteria you were using. Sounds reasonable, I guess. Quote
Winter Posted January 27, 2005 Posted January 27, 2005 Keeping with the theme for the day - Is your mom a dry tooling route? Quote
cj001f Posted January 27, 2005 Posted January 27, 2005 Is your mom a dry tooling route? Not when I'm in the room. Quote
Harkin_Banks Posted January 27, 2005 Posted January 27, 2005 not when I'm in the....dammit oh well blahblah your mom's a whore Quote
Ireneo_Funes Posted January 27, 2005 Posted January 27, 2005 Keeping with the theme for the day - Is your mom a dry tooling route? Refer to NOLSe's criteria above. Is she in the guidebook (i.e. the back of the Willamette Week)? Is she chossy? Would someone conceivably want to climb her? Etc. Not that I want to encourage this kind of thing. Quote
Squid Posted January 27, 2005 Posted January 27, 2005 It is acceptable to dry-tool any route at Vantage, because the place is just a choss-pile anyway. To demonstrate superior form, it is necessary to hack your way up (on top-rope) every route in the Feathers, and then hurl your tools and crampons at the inevitable gapers and etiquette police, while swearing violently how you were hardcore back when the gapers were just an embarassing swelling in their daddies' pants. If you can work up a little froth and foam, then you're dry tooling in fine form. Quote
wdietsch Posted January 27, 2005 Posted January 27, 2005 Keeping with the theme for the day - Is your mom a dry tooling route? Quote
rhyang Posted January 28, 2005 Posted January 28, 2005 out here we almost specifically drytool on DT routes Dumb question - how do you find such routes ? Is it a word-of-mouth kind of thing ? Depends on the area... there are guidebooks for DT areas but mostly Colorado and CAN. Around here it seems mostly word of mouth... where are you looking? California, perhaps Nevada or southern Oregon. I haven't asked around much, but read somewhere about Lee Vining Canyon in the off-season (when there's no ice). Quote
Chad_A Posted January 28, 2005 Posted January 28, 2005 not when I'm in the....dammit oh well blahblah your mom's a whore Quote
NTM Posted February 2, 2005 Posted February 2, 2005 If it isn't in the guidebook and is choss then I climb it. Is this choss? Quote
Dru Posted February 3, 2005 Posted February 3, 2005 well that adze will shave you pretty good when it skates Quote
chirp Posted February 3, 2005 Posted February 3, 2005 Just thing how crazy Dwayner is going right now not having the chance to whine about the evils of drytooling and how much damage it brings. Hey D! I dont actually think he cares as much as you think he does...especially since you think he does. Quote
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