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Posted (edited)

When I'm going climbing for the first time with a new partner I usually DOWNPLAY my experience and ability (as humble as it is). That way they don't get me on something "scawy". Plus, if they have greatly exaggerated their ability and try to lead something on which they are gripped and helpless, I might be able to get us out of the pickle.

 

I am a competent 5.6, WI2, A1 leader. I can usually second 5.9 without falling off. fruit.gif

 

I see you got that copy of my climbing resume I emailed to you. thumbs_up.gif

 

 

 

edit: In the interest of full disclosure, I should add that my only 5.6 leads have been IN THE GYM, so knock that down a grade or two for my outdoor leading ability. Now, are we ready for the GIRTH PILLAR!!?!? rockband.gif

Edited by Alpinfox
Posted

just don't go on trips with people you don't know. specially from this web site. and even someone can climb your personalities will not match which can make for a very long trip. for me the best partners are people who can climb hard and have the same sick sense of humor.

Posted

Lessee. Last year I redpointed 5.12 and hung on a 5.7, onsighted 5.9 offwidth and .10d slab, but retreated off a sport route, flashed a V5, but got bouted by V3. I whine about the approach to the Smith backside, but getting to and from Stuart wasn't too bad. Hope that clears things up for prospective partners.

Posted
I am a competent 5.6, WI2, A1 leader. I can usually second 5.9 without falling off. fruit.gif

 

It's true, he didn't fall off of that sheep even when it started bucking!! Sorry you had to settle for sloppy seconds...I'll be quicker next time. fruit.gif

Posted

now let's talk proper shep shagging technique:

1 put thir hind legs into you high boots- hence they can't buck

2 use you vecro glover for better grip

3put them at the edge of the cliff, harder you push- harder they push back

Posted

 

I met Kit Lewis at a pub club many moons ago and we talked about possibly climbing something together. He wanted to go aid climbing and I said I didn't have much experience aiding, but would be happy to go free climbing with him. He asked me how good of a free climber I was and I fed him some lie... he responded with, "well, I'm a SOLID 5.6 climber. SOLID!".

 

yellaf.gif

Posted

You gotta take some chances to get the good ones...

 

With a job I used to have, I was always looking for cheap assistants, and working with new, unskilled people all the time. The job often involved week long road trips and long, physical hours. I got some idiots that I had to force to shut up, and never used twice, but I also found some very pleasant surprises, and made unusual life long friends that I would never have met without being patient and giving people a chance.

 

In particular, I remember a young woman I didn't want to hire - confident as she was, I couldn't imagine a 21 year old girl being able to handle the job. She turned out to be the best assistant I ever had, sharp, hard working and laid back about grubby life on the road. She was super cute, but with a wicked, dirty sense of humor, and had been a tree planter.

 

We had a great time, harassing military guys in bars, drinking beer and singing old country tunes while driving through the night, etc. I was flabbergasted when we checked into a hotel in Ft. St. John and she said she better stay in the van because she was banned from that hotel. She cleaned up REAL nice for the PR portion of the job too, all dirty jeans and hard work one minute, ponytail and sundress the next. I once asked her why she stayed with her weeny boyfriend, and she said that she met him tree-planting, and that any guy who would go down on you after 14 days without a shower was a keeper!! shocked.gif

Man, I miss that girl!

 

Anyway, I'm not sure if I had a point, the thread just got me thinking about Renee.

Posted
...really suck.

 

"I've climbed Polar Circus". Actually you followed every hard pitch.thumbs_down.gif

 

"We're gonna do (this and that) route in the Canadian Rockies." Actually I'm gonna freeze my ass off watching you sew up 20 meters of WI 3- and lower you off of WI 3+. thumbs_down.gif

 

At least it's so cold now that climbing would suck anyway. thumbs_down.gif

 

I hope that someone out there is having fun right now.

 

Quit whining. Go soloing.

Posted
I had to go hunting, but I found it: start here

 

I don't think either Kainsacad or RikRik ever showed up around here after this. yelrotflmao.gif

 

 

duuuude...swear to god, me and mp fired coonyard to oasis...but...i musta been drunk, or stoned, or sumpthin....

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