catbirdseat Posted January 4, 2005 Posted January 4, 2005 I'm thinking of getting one of the old Camalot #4.5 cams just because they're on sale. Question is, "how much would I use it?". I've already used my #4 a couple times. I happen to like chimneys, but can't really say I've ever attempted a true hard offwidth. I supposed if I keep going to Vantage, I'd find plenty of climbs in which to use a 4.5. Anyone out there own one of these monsters? If so, how many times have you used it? Quote
EWolfe Posted January 4, 2005 Posted January 4, 2005 I have a 4.5 and a 5, and I seek out climbs to use them. I use them maybe 8-10 times a year. They're nice for chimneys that constrict in the back. But I'm weird. Quote
John Frieh Posted January 4, 2005 Posted January 4, 2005 Own a 4.5 and 5 also... looking at getting a # 6 next. I have used them on 4 - 5 routes a year (multiple placements per route) so they have paid for themselves... but I'm like E... I seek those routes out. Now would be a good time to pick up the old models for cheap. Quote
EWolfe Posted January 4, 2005 Posted January 4, 2005 Watch it, or I'll hafta drop-kick ya again. Quote
RuMR Posted January 4, 2005 Posted January 4, 2005 bring it! I've finally found a place for my #5 camalot...upside your head!! Quote
John Frieh Posted January 5, 2005 Posted January 5, 2005 bring it! I've finally found a place for my #5 camalot...upside your head!! classic. This has got to be the climbing equivalent to a girl fight... a boulder/sporto pissing match (only RuMR can't pull Mr E's hair ). RuMR: what do you even own a # 5 for? paperweight? Quote
RuMR Posted January 5, 2005 Posted January 5, 2005 NOLSe...word to the wise...i'll crush you in offwidths ... Quote
John Frieh Posted January 5, 2005 Posted January 5, 2005 I wouldn't doubt for a second the years of experience you have wiggling around in dark tight warm places Rudy. At least your packing protection... Quote
EWolfe Posted January 5, 2005 Posted January 5, 2005 bring it! I've finally found a place for my #5 camalot...upside your head!! classic. This has got to be the climbing equivalent to a girl fight... a boulder/sporto pissing match (only RuMR can't pull Mr E's hair ). You both can shine my bald spot w00t! 5000 posts! Quote
LUCKY Posted January 5, 2005 Posted January 5, 2005 (edited) I drape mine with a tarp and use it as an unbrella It's sooo heavy I hire a porter to pack it Anything that wide HURTS good bragging rights Edited January 5, 2005 by LUCKY Quote
lancegranite Posted January 5, 2005 Posted January 5, 2005 If your knee is wider than 4.5''...buy the cam. Best climbs for a 4.5? My choice is Narrow arrow direct pitch 4. One of the best 5.10's at Index.....you will feel good placing Big Red on this classic!!! Quote
Alpinfox Posted January 5, 2005 Posted January 5, 2005 Best climbs for a 4.5? NW corner of NEWS!!! Hey Lance, you should come to "Sea At El" this spring/summer. Quote
EWolfe Posted January 5, 2005 Posted January 5, 2005 I've climbed 4.5. Sheee-it! Ain't even 5th class! Quote
texplorer Posted January 5, 2005 Posted January 5, 2005 You can get by on the Nose with just up to a 4.5. Quote
John Frieh Posted January 5, 2005 Posted January 5, 2005 Best climbs for a 4.5? East face of Lexington. I have heard the infurno route on SEWS is even better... overhanging offwidth! w00t! Has anyone climbed this? Quote
MCash Posted January 5, 2005 Posted January 5, 2005 If you like the wide stuff, try this bad boy. The Magnum Force, descibed to me as the hardest 10B on the planet. Quote
bobbyperu Posted January 5, 2005 Posted January 5, 2005 on the inferno route,i had a 4.5....seems to me tho if were talking protecting the crux climbing on that route the 4.5 is too small. do a search for uncle trickys "disco inferno" TR for a description of this climb..good reading Quote
bobbyperu Posted January 5, 2005 Posted January 5, 2005 huh..magnum force... looks like either the needles in california or the enchantments...any more info? Quote
fgw Posted January 5, 2005 Posted January 5, 2005 Head out to the desert SW (Moab, some Red Rocks lines & some Sedona Towers) and you'll have the pretty red anodized coloring off that thing in no time Around here from my limited experience I found that #4 Camalot (~#5 Friend) seems to be sufficient "luxury" items. Also, from my limited experience I sort of like Friends better than Camalots in the monster sizes (seem more stable but I do own a #5 Camalot) but those are not on sale. Quote
Off_White Posted January 5, 2005 Posted January 5, 2005 I'm gonna guess Chimney Rock in Idaho... Quote
John Frieh Posted January 5, 2005 Posted January 5, 2005 Yeah... that's granite... I’m thinking Chimney too… MCash: where is that? BobbyPeru: thanks for the info! Is there any other unselected climbs at the pass I should take a look at? Have you ever done the firefighter route on Cutthroat? Quote
MCash Posted January 5, 2005 Posted January 5, 2005 Yes, it's the east face of Chimney Rock, Idaho. Quote
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