catbirdseat Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 I'm thinking of getting one of the old Camalot #4.5 cams just because they're on sale. Question is, "how much would I use it?". I've already used my #4 a couple times. I happen to like chimneys, but can't really say I've ever attempted a true hard offwidth. I supposed if I keep going to Vantage, I'd find plenty of climbs in which to use a 4.5. Anyone out there own one of these monsters? If so, how many times have you used it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 I have a 4.5 and a 5, and I seek out climbs to use them. Â I use them maybe 8-10 times a year. They're nice for chimneys that constrict in the back. Â But I'm weird. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 Own a 4.5 and 5 also... looking at getting a # 6 next. Â I have used them on 4 - 5 routes a year (multiple placements per route) so they have paid for themselves... but I'm like E... I seek those routes out. Â Now would be a good time to pick up the old models for cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 IBut I'm weird. Â yeah...no shit, huh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 Watch it, or I'll hafta drop-kick ya again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 bring it! I've finally found a place for my #5 camalot...upside your head!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 Post deleted by NOLSe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 bring it! I've finally found a place for my #5 camalot...upside your head!! Â classic. Â This has got to be the climbing equivalent to a girl fight... a boulder/sporto pissing match (only RuMR can't pull Mr E's hair ). Â RuMR: what do you even own a # 5 for? paperweight? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 NOLSe...word to the wise...i'll crush you in offwidths ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 I wouldn't doubt for a second the years of experience you have wiggling around in dark tight warm places Rudy. At least your packing protection... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 bring it! I've finally found a place for my #5 camalot...upside your head!!  classic.  This has got to be the climbing equivalent to a girl fight... a boulder/sporto pissing match (only RuMR can't pull Mr E's hair ).   You both can shine my bald spot  w00t! 5000 posts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LUCKY Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 (edited) I drape mine with a tarp and use it as an unbrella It's sooo heavy I hire a porter to pack it Anything that wide HURTS good bragging rights  Edited January 5, 2005 by LUCKY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 If your knee is wider than 4.5''...buy the cam. Â Best climbs for a 4.5? Â My choice is Narrow arrow direct pitch 4. One of the best 5.10's at Index.....you will feel good placing Big Red on this classic!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 Â Best climbs for a 4.5? Â NW corner of NEWS!!! Â Â Hey Lance, you should come to "Sea At El" this spring/summer. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 I've climbed 4.5. Â Sheee-it! Ain't even 5th class! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 You can get by on the Nose with just up to a 4.5. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 Best climbs for a 4.5? Â East face of Lexington. I have heard the infurno route on SEWS is even better... overhanging offwidth! w00t! Has anyone climbed this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCash Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 If you like the wide stuff, try this bad boy. The Magnum Force, descibed to me as the hardest 10B on the planet. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 on the inferno route,i had a 4.5....seems to me tho if were talking protecting the crux climbing on that route the 4.5 is too small. do a search for uncle trickys "disco inferno" TR for a description of this climb..good reading Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 huh..magnum force... looks like either the needles in california or the enchantments...any more info? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fgw Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 Head out to the desert SW (Moab, some Red Rocks lines & some Sedona Towers) and you'll have the pretty red anodized coloring off that thing in no time  Around here from my limited experience I found that #4 Camalot (~#5 Friend) seems to be sufficient "luxury" items.  Also, from my limited experience I sort of like Friends better than Camalots in the monster sizes (seem more stable but I do own a #5 Camalot) but those are not on sale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 I'm gonna guess Chimney Rock in Idaho... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 Yeah... that's granite... I’m thinking Chimney too… MCash: where is that?  BobbyPeru: thanks for the info! Is there any other unselected climbs at the pass I should take a look at? Have you ever done the firefighter route on Cutthroat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCash Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 Yes, it's the east face of Chimney Rock, Idaho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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