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B.S.'er

A route that doesn't go in a day?

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I was looking for an answer to the following question:

 

Can every single route in WA be done car to car in a 24 hour day? (Except for a few in the northern picketts and also dome peak area.)

 

Any thoughts or opinions? Can anybody think of a climb that REQUIRES a bivouac?

 

Also: The home to home time is much cooler than the car to car time. Sleeping in the back of the car at a trailhead blows. Plus it is not as pure because you are acclimating just like you had made a base camp.

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quote:

Originally posted by B.S.'er:

Plus it is not as pure because you are acclimating just like you had made a base camp.

So that what you call what you're doing in the back of your car - "acclimating" - sure.

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Well, it depends how far you can go in 24 hrs. 20+mile round trip plus a quality climb, or more? There may be some stuff in the pasayten that could be pretty tough to pull off in 24hrs.

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quote:

Originally posted by B.S.'er:

Also: The home to home time is much cooler than the car to car time. Sleeping in the back of the car at a trailhead blows. Plus it is not as pure because you are acclimating just like you had made a base camp.

Please don't push this line of thinking on yourself. You will not prove anything if you fall asleep on the wheel while driving back to your home from a long climb.

 

Remember Wolfgang Gullich... I have done that many times and survived.

 

It is really not worth it.

 

Erden.

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I woke up, while driving home from L'worth after a car-to-car attempt, to find that I was well into the other lane, and heading at oncoming traffic, with their horns blazing. Never again. I felt like I had almost murdered innnocent people, so that I could sleep in my comfy bed. Weak.

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super long car-to-car is cool, provided you have one simple thing: a cozy car to sleep in when its all said and done (optional hot chick to sleep beside also helps)...seriously, why is everyone so afraid to sleep outside, especially when its well deserved (and when you're generally so tired you could sleep in a chinese kitchen?) the machismo is figured by your roundtrip foot-time, not car time...

 

far as routes requiring more than a day: heard just about everyone say jo-burg demands a bivy, despite the 15 minute approach

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to explain, home to home seems like bullshit b/c its not comparable...everyone's coming from someplace different, with different traffic conditions...there's no way to tell who has the bigger dick, so to speak, unless you're leaving from the same place at the same time...i'll leave alone the question as to why times must be compared at all

 

far as acclimating goes, this is going to be pretty negligible if you're doing the standard 4 hour sleep on a friday night before shoving off before dark (or non-existent if you role in at that hour)

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quote:

Originally posted by B.S.'er:

Sleeping in the back of the car at a trailhead blows.

What the hell??! I love sleeping in my car pre or post climb What blows about that. Furthemore what's with the acclimating comparison. That's just stupid. I live at 4300' next to a trail head...should I spend a week at sea level before comparing. Speaking about compareing, that is just egotistical competition. If it is important to you, so be it, but don't try to drag others into your warped ideas about the value of mountaineering.

 

2 years ago I spent the night (in my car) in Death Valley, drove to Whitney portal pre-dawn and then summited Mt. Whitney and made it back down to the grill intime for Burgers. BFD; I was acclimated to 7,000' prior. It was my own thing, I enjoyed it and was not competeing against anyone or any record. I knew it was all bullshit anyway but it was fun.

 

Don't try to drag others in to compete with your silly psychosis. Climbing has enough dangers without pushing acclimitazation or endangering innocents by trying to drive home when you are tired just to feed your ego. That's un-mitigated crap. Get a more comfortable car.

 

That's my opinion, and I'm sticking to it.

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quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

Has anyone climbed willis wall in a day
[Confused]

Maybe the caveman has the right idea for you BSer.

In all likelyhood you might not have to trouble us anymore with your stupid ideas after that attempt. This is a really good time of year to try it. [Wink]

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Also try not to bivy on a few of the Doorish routes. We wanna know how it goes. Start with something like Dolomite Tower, N Norwegian Buttress of Mt Index, Garfield, or something on Castle Peak [Wink] East Face of Slesse aint Doorish but give it a try too. [Embarrassed]

 

After those are knocked off then I will research the beckey guides for more [Razz]

 

[ 10-07-2002, 08:57 AM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

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Hear, hear, TG.

 

Too many good climbers have died on the drive home. Plus, effective acclimatizing takes way more than a few hours at the trailhead. Just ask anyone who really has problems with altitude.

 

Of course, this leaves aside the question of why all the concern about speed? I can see reasons for doing things fast (limited time, window of good conditions, desire to travel light) but being in the mountains has so much value (especially if unhurried) that the whole idea of the speed ascent is unsavory to many of us. Some competition seems to spice up an otherwise mundane ascent, I suppose, but much is lost in approaching climbing with speed as the primary concern.

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quote:

Originally posted by bobinc:

Hear, hear, TG.

being in the mountains has so much value (especially if unhurried) that the whole idea of the speed ascent is unsavory to many of us.

Them be true words [big Drink]

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quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

Also try not to bivy on a few of the Doorish routes.

Yup, my thoughts exactly. Throw in the Diamond on N Face of Bear on that list. I wholeheartedly agree with bobinc on the subject too. I don't go to the mountains just so I can be as busy and overscheduled as the rest of my life. Maybe any route CAN be done in a day, but it doesn't mean it SHOULD.

 

Speaking of busy and overscheduled, its Monday, I gotta go. [Roll Eyes]

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theres a route on ranier that would be a dayer. i cant think of the name starts with an N.. glacier route i think...long route on rainier that usually takes like 3 days...i was gonna do it last year but just ran out of time... looks beautiful...damnit what is that route called!?!?! [Mad]

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lets see someone not Alex Lowe or Rolo Garibotti even do something like the NE buttress of East Mcmillan in a day round trip from the trailhead [Roll Eyes] not to mention NF ofFury or whatever. Or the Russian Route on whatever that big peak is on the east side.

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Yeah dude the Russian Route on Inspiration [Embarrassed] or Bonanza in a day.

 

Fury in a day would be fun to hear about too. [laf]

 

[ 10-07-2002, 09:15 AM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

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I don't know any "N..." glaciers on the N. side of Rainer. There are the Emmons, Interglacier, Carbon, Russell, and the Mowitch Glacier (really on the W. side). But I suspect that any route on the mountain could be done in a day by someone who was qualified and fit and set it upon theirselves to do so. And hell, if somebody can run in and out of Olympus in - wasn't it like 14 hours or something - and if they can climb the Nose in just a couple of hours, or run up and down Mount Foraker by lunch time, there is probably little in Washington that some madman could not do in one day.

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quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

Yeah dude the Russian Route on Inspiration
[Embarrassed]
or Bonanza in a day.

 

Fury in a day would be fun to hear about too.
[laf]

I'll buy all the beer you and your partner can drink in 24 hours if you do N. Buttress of Fury car to car in 24 hours. After that you can star in the next superman movie!

 

BTW, there are MANY routes you can't do in a day. That's just one!

 

Overall, this is a stupid topic and I should probably be ashamed I even responded. [big Grin]

 

[ 10-07-2002, 11:01 AM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

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quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

Nisqually is the shortest approach. Cant be it.

Maybe it COULD be. You don't know the guy's skill and condtioning level. I once took four days to climb and descend the Kautz. It was a great trip!

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