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Posted

quote:

Originally posted by Heinouscling:

Another Smith weekend for me. Sent Bloodshot and came within a hang of sending Blackened. I'm satisfied. Next weekend at Smith should be interesting. With any luck, I'll be getting stinky ass drunk at the Kicken Access party Saturday night. Hopefully after having sent Blackened.

 

-Heinous

Nice work, Mr. Heinousness! Bloodshot is a fun route, and a great send. Thing is pretty long; you gots ta hang in there for a while! One of those routes that gets you in good shape for sending other stuff.

 

You'll get Blackened soon, it sounds like. Nothing like a week off to clear your head and get you psyched to come back and tear the fuckin' holds off that project in a blitzkrieg of sending madness. So where's it shutting you down? The razor-sharp crack, or the razor-sharp pockets? [laf]

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by iain:

 

B-rock TFJ remains one of my favorite climbs even after the # of times I've been up there. Hope it wasn't too crowded for you. Usually there's at least one Mazama type group up there that gives me crap for being by myself on that route while they engage in a shouting fest around the crawl trying to talk to each other. I just run through and get out of there.
[Roll Eyes][laf]

Yeah, it was a blast and my first time out with such crazy exposure. I checked the Mazamas outing page, they had a trip down that way planned for the previous and next weekends so I thought we were safe. Alas, a group of 9 from a Eugene club were there... Still, the timing worked out well with their early start, we passed most on the way down after we did the crawl and only waited about ten minutes for the summit pinacle to clear up, which we had to ourselves.

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by Dru:

almost indestructible...

you guys crack me up ... 'perfect hiking weather' so you go Moganeering ... I hope the pumpkin-mobile gets fixed for the Halloween ski trip! [Cool]

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by fern:

quote:

Originally posted by Dru:

almost indestructible...

you guys crack me up ... 'perfect hiking weather' so you go Moganeering ... I hope the pumpkin-mobile gets fixed for the Halloween ski trip!
[Cool] well we made it to a point where we could actually see some steep granite off in the distance [big Grin] instead of devils club and 20 yr old 2nd growth.

 

the summit bid was derailed by rockhounding on a beach [Roll Eyes] 3 hrs later "I guess we aren't gonna make the top today huh?"

[Roll Eyes]

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing:

-

 

So this is what a
is. DFA had no idea. Fuckers look expensive and fuel consumptive, and yet it also looks like they could probably eliminate the need to actually get out to climb stuff.

Poor man's Humvee. I think Robin got his for $6000 CDN.

Posted

Travelled in a Unimog around Patagonia for two weeks. Those things rock! Will go anywhere, super cheap towing capacity of 80,000 pounds, top speed of 50 mph, and a ridiculous number of gears. My friends has 18. Most do not look like the one in the pic. Most are old miltary vehicles, made by Mercedes? There is a place in Georgia that sells them and rebuilds them. Most look like this

 

-

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing:

Ah, yes. The Doctor almost blew the flash at the long jug move, too. Lost the ability to claim onsight after watching the video of the route on smithrock.com and seeing Lawson huck for the jug. DFA remembered that tidbit as he was getting ready to give up, and decided to try the hucker, which paid off with the sharp bucket. It's definitely in your face right there. Shabby footholds for a couple moves, too; the Doctor was skating all over the place.

 

You ought to take a spin on Purple Aces over at Shipwreck. Similar climbing, vert to off-vert, with a bit of physical stuff at the bottom and then an unnervingly blank and tenuous finish. Super fun; that route doesn't see enough traffic.

Yes, the first time I tried it, during the onsight, I hucked for the bucket also. After I broke skin on the crimp and squirted blood all over the rock, I opted for a different strategy. I clotted the split tip with chalk (ah yes, that chalk is good for something after all), and then was able to make the move statically, although, without howling in pain. Tis a great route. Yes indeed.

 

Funny you mention Shipwreck wall. Thats definitely where I shall be part of the time next weekend. Tis a fine selection of routes on that wall. [Wazzup]

 

-Heinous

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by Heinouscling:

quote:

Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing:

Ah, yes. The Doctor almost blew the flash at the long jug move, too. Lost the ability to claim onsight after watching the video of the route on smithrock.com and seeing Lawson huck for the jug. DFA remembered that tidbit as he was getting ready to give up, and decided to try the hucker, which paid off with the sharp bucket. It's definitely in your face right there. Shabby footholds for a couple moves, too; the Doctor was skating all over the place.

 

You ought to take a spin on Purple Aces over at Shipwreck. Similar climbing, vert to off-vert, with a bit of physical stuff at the bottom and then an unnervingly blank and tenuous finish. Super fun; that route doesn't see enough traffic.

Yes, the first time I tried it, during the onsight, I hucked for the bucket also. After I broke skin on the crimp and squirted blood all over the rock, I opted for a different strategy. I clotted the split tip with chalk (ah yes, that chalk is good for something after all), and then was able to make the move statically, although, without howling in pain. Tis a great route. Yes indeed.

 

Funny you mention Shipwreck wall. Thats definitely where I shall be part of the time next weekend. Tis a fine selection of routes on that wall.
[Wazzup]

 

-Heinous

Good work Heinous - Those routes left of Blackened are OK, they have hard cruxes, however there better choices for the grade. Try Rawhide, Zebra Seam.
Posted

quote:

Originally posted by michael_layton:

I cannot believe you guy trashed a Unimog! I can't even fuckin' believe you were using one.

 

Can I borrow it? PLEEEEEAAAAAAASE!

it aint mine to lend

 

Ryland is right though, they are made by Mercedes-Benz! [Cool]

 

[ 09-23-2002, 12:13 PM: Message edited by: Dru ]

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing:

Nice work, Mr. Heinousness! Bloodshot is a fun route, and a great send. Thing is pretty long; you gots ta hang in there for a while! One of those routes that gets you in good shape for sending other stuff.

 

You'll get Blackened soon, it sounds like. Nothing like a week off to clear your head and get you psyched to come back and tear the fuckin' holds off that project in a blitzkrieg of sending madness. So where's it shutting you down? The razor-sharp crack, or the razor-sharp pockets?
[laf]

Hey, thanks much DFA. Yea, I was feeling quite good after sending Bloodshot. I utilized the rests before the two cruxes to their maximum. Its a very doable 11c provided one has the patience to use those rests. Unlike, Vomit Launch which doesn't really let up until you're at the anchors. Although, there are some good jug rests on Vomit but the damn thing is so steep, you're on your arms almost the whole time.

 

I lost the onsite on Blackened when I got to the right hand crimp about 7 feet below the anchor or so. You pull down hard on the crimp with the right hand and get the big jug with the left. Its a one move 11d crux but, damn, is that crimp ever painful. I think Blackened also has a lieback crux down lower when you pull over the bulge. That lieback was fun. I'll be gunning for Blackened this coming weekend.

 

Theres a couple of routes just left of Blackened up this really steep bulge. Damn, those routes look pissen hard.

 

-Heinous

Posted

Ah, yes. The Doctor almost blew the flash at the long jug move, too. Lost the ability to claim onsight after watching the video of the route on smithrock.com and seeing Lawson huck for the jug. DFA remembered that tidbit as he was getting ready to give up, and decided to try the hucker, which paid off with the sharp bucket. It's definitely in your face right there. Shabby footholds for a couple moves, too; the Doctor was skating all over the place.

 

You ought to take a spin on Purple Aces over at Shipwreck. Similar climbing, vert to off-vert, with a bit of physical stuff at the bottom and then an unnervingly blank and tenuous finish. Super fun; that route doesn't see enough traffic.

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by Dru:

Then the Mog ran out of gas near Squamish and it was discovered the tire was flat too. Probably from sharp things in the alder thicket and wailing over the bumps. Anyways we had to walk back to his house and get my Ru and a gas can and go get the Mog so he could drive it home.

So what yer saying is that you needed a Ru to rescue a Mog? I'd always heard they were good cars.

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by snoboy:

quote:

Originally posted by Dru:

Then the Mog ran out of gas near Squamish and it was discovered the tire was flat too. Probably from sharp things in the alder thicket and wailing over the bumps. Anyways we had to walk back to his house and get my Ru and a gas can and go get the Mog so he could drive it home.

So what yer saying is that you needed a Ru to rescue a Mog? I'd always heard they were good cars.

And how do some pricker bushes pop those tires?

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