thelawgoddess Posted September 4, 2002 Share Posted September 4, 2002 i'm looking for suggestions for good "local" climbs -- similar in quality to (or better than) "off duty" at l-worth. about the same difficulty and higher. tia ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thinker Posted September 4, 2002 Share Posted September 4, 2002 Total Soul at Darrington! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted September 4, 2002 Share Posted September 4, 2002 lworthless slabs are special...most of the newer ones are contrivences made by viktor kramer...he and his buddies put alot of work into making these climbs...... Â darrington is sumpin totally different.....a little less sport bolted...but the bolts are there spaced between heady blank moves....the moves in lworth slabs are much more edgy compared to the smearing that dtown requires Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted September 4, 2002 Share Posted September 4, 2002 Trundle Dome has some really good slab climbing but not as good as Off Duty. I actually have never climbed a better pure slab route. I hear Goat Dome has some good stuff as well. Â [ 09-04-2002, 03:01 PM: Message edited by: TimL ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 4, 2002 Share Posted September 4, 2002 white lightning troll's sonnet 2nd pitch dreams of passion ramapithecus stooges slab black streaker pigdogs on parade etc (upper South Apron) dreamweaver (Apron not the one in Marble Canyon) flashdance (10c version marble canyon) local boys do good magic carpet ride & not your normal nightmare - if you like micro chickenheads the 5.7 at larabee state park reality check on yak, crux pitch merci me featureless face and the other ones next to it on upper malemute  the 10c on the approach trail to the solarium  Snootli Express in BellaCoola!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrueger Posted September 4, 2002 Share Posted September 4, 2002 When you head down to Smith you should stop in at Flagstone - it's relatively close. It's a slab climbing frictioners paradise, if you're into that sort of thing. The harder routes are bold, so even though it's sport, be sure to bring your nuts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted September 4, 2002 Share Posted September 4, 2002 Shit, go to Smith and get on any route easier than .11b. 99% of them are ssssllllaaaabbbbyyyy. Â Ugh. Slab climbing is evil and requires technique and calf muscles, the latter of which are usually dead weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted September 4, 2002 Share Posted September 4, 2002 Ok I am bored so here is a list: Â Leavenworth - Pocketmeister, Routes on Secret Dome. Â Static Point - The better routes are to the right side. Shock Treatment is a great route. All are a bit more runout than your reference route. And they are much less featured as are most of the slab routes I can think of. Plus this is a very pretty area. Â Index - Racer X, the route left of Newest Industry, End Run and Steel Pulse. The Zipper isn't bolted slab but still slabby. Â Squamish - More than you can shake a stick at. Slabs rule at Squamish. Centerfold is fun. Â Darrington - the Kone Route. Â PP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Clarke Posted September 4, 2002 Share Posted September 4, 2002 Darrington - Dreamer  Peshatin Pinnacles - Anything!  Smith Rock - Dreamin  Lworth - Edge of Space Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted September 4, 2002 Share Posted September 4, 2002 Ah just figured out you wanted the climbs no easier than...how hard do you want? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 4, 2002 Share Posted September 4, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Â Squamish - More than you can shake a stick at. Slabs rule at Squamish. Centerfold is fun. Â PP Centerfold is a 3 pitch climb with about 20m of slab climbing, the rest is crack and face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 4, 2002 Share Posted September 4, 2002 Peshastin has great slab climbs. Â Washboards ala Primate finish Pebbles and Bam Bam - minor choss White Lightning - spicy Scratch - spicy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted September 4, 2002 Share Posted September 4, 2002 Dru - yea but I remember it as a slab! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 4, 2002 Share Posted September 4, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Dru - yea but I remember it as a slab! there is an honest 6 inch roof on the second pitch. in fact the first 2 pitches are pretty steep and then the 3rd lays back. i bet you just remember it as slabby cause you crux on slabs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted September 4, 2002 Share Posted September 4, 2002 I crux on everything - I am an all around climber! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted September 4, 2002 Author Share Posted September 4, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Ah just figured out you wanted the climbs no easier than...how hard do you want? 10a and up, but if there's easier stuff of high quality (or just loads of fun) i'm definitely open to those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted September 5, 2002 Share Posted September 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Static Point - The better routes are to the right side. Shock Treatment is a great route. All are a bit more runout than your reference route. And they are much less featured as are most of the slab routes I can think of. Plus this is a very pretty area. Â Index - The Zipper isn't bolted slab but still slabby. PP and Erik are right about Off Duty being totally different than the fricton climbing found at Static Point/Darrington. Try out Fuddhat/Kill Da Wabbit at Static Point. Fuddhat has the totally blank friction moves. Kill Da Wabbit is more like Off Duty, with balancy moves from small hold to small hold. Â The Zipper is a good call, and according to the guide there is a bolted route veering out right of the crack. How about Princely Ambitions Direct? Princely proper has that 10 feet of Off Duty type small hold excitement. Â Midway Direct Direct has the same flavor as Off Duty but is much more runout (but only 5.9). Maybe it's less runout now if the second bolt has been replaced? Â [ 09-04-2002, 05:10 PM: Message edited by: chucK ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted September 5, 2002 Share Posted September 5, 2002 Unlike the good Doctor, I carry quite a torch for friction climbing. The suction, faith and friction lets me skate by on technique and belief, while the overhanging crankfest leaves me all sputtering and bug eyed. Folks have Darrington-Static-Squamish righteously covered, but here's a few other tidbits: Â Goat Dome at Der has some good slabby ones. I recall a nice multipitch easy 10 to the left end? I'd have to break out the guide and scratch my head, but I think we did about 4 routes while we were there. Â In the not so local category, but worth the road trip: I haven't heard much lately from the holy grail of granite slab crags, the Glacier Point Apron in the Valley. I know its been dropping killer rock falls in recent years, which is a bummer, cuz some of my favorite slabs of all time are there: Hoppy's Favorite, Deep Throat, Green Dragon, Coonyard, etc etc. Â Tuoloumne is more about edging than smearing, but most anything old and 5.9 or under can really put the fear in you, and those edges where the glacial polish breaks are so sweet. Hogwash though is nothing but glassy pink polish smearing. Â The western slope of the Sierras are full of great things: Fresno Dome, Courtright Reservoir, Tollhouse Rock, and on and on. Courtright in particular is awesome: kind of like the Meadows but on Forest Circus land (free camping) and less crowded (climbed there for a week and never saw another climber). Power Dome is full of wonders, and you leave the car wearing your rock shoes and walk back down gentle exfoliation slabs after 5-7 pitch climbs. Â Suicide, across from Tahquitz in So Cal is another brilliant slab area, full of old school hand drilled masterpieces: Valhalla, Serpentine, New Generation, Sundance, Pink Royd, Hesitation, and more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted September 5, 2002 Share Posted September 5, 2002 LG here's a revised list of slightly harder climbs:  Squamish - Dream Symphony 11b Fun route if I remember correctly. Magic Carpet Ride only if those darn bolts have been upgraded. If I remember correctly there were some of those alum. pop can hangers on 1/4" scary many years ago. Of course Good Girls 10D is fun as well. There is also a climb just to the left of Unfinished Symphony that was fun as well. Only been to Squamish once since late 80's so I bet there are lots of new ones. I also remember Slipping Clutch as being good but I think Dru said once it was overgrown. Popeye & Raven is a cool one too. Maybe some wouldn't consider it a slab though.  Darrington - One nice route not mentioned is Tidbitys but the bolts may be old and rusty. Mattp - any info on this guy? A bit steeper and to the left is Masters of the Universe  Index - Newest Industry and 10% shield pitch  Leavenworth - I second Off White's comment regarding Goat Dome lots of fun climbs plus since many routes share anchors, it is easy to TR harder ones than you might feel like leading. One thing I remember is that some of the bolts are in goofy spots so on a hot day a few clips might be harder than they should be. (that is: you have to make a smear move off a good ledge to clip a bolt)  Off is alos right about the GP Apron being really neat. Off - What about that really long new moderate route on the Apron. Do you know anyone who has climbed it?  Valhalla? Ah another stonemaster!  PP  [ 09-05-2002, 09:28 AM: Message edited by: Peter Puget ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted September 5, 2002 Share Posted September 5, 2002 Squamish- Whirlwind (10d) has fat bolts and isn't excessively spicy. Rap off after the crux pitch and skip the crack. Â Leavenworth- The "alpine sport" climb on Condor Buttress is exceedingly well protected but has some nice 10- moves along with lots of easier climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted September 5, 2002 Share Posted September 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by matt warfield: Leavenworth- The "alpine sport" climb on Condor Buttress is exceedingly well protected but has some nice 10- moves along with lots of easier climbing. Yeah, you can stand on one hanger and clip the next. I'm sure wank-teryx would love it if it was 5.6. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted September 5, 2002 Share Posted September 5, 2002 Mitch you are the true wanker. Gratuitously slamming Scott. What's up with that? Check out his site. (NWOG.org) He climbs a whole lot more than virtually everyone on this site and has been becoming a better climber every week. He is helping to organize a work project at Index and contributes to this site in a positive way. I say all hail Scotty and piss on you! Â PP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted September 5, 2002 Author Share Posted September 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by matt warfield: Leavenworth- The "alpine sport" climb on Condor Buttress is exceedingly well protected but has some nice 10- moves along with lots of easier climbing. if you mean "condorphamine" i led that the day before. it was a super fun climb but it wasn't as sweet or technically sustained as "off duty". i'd definitely recommend it, though. anybody know anything about "solid gold"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted September 5, 2002 Share Posted September 5, 2002 quote: f you mean "condorphamine" i led that the day before. it was a super fun climb but it wasn't as sweet or technically sustained as "off duty". i'd definitely recommend it, though. that's the one. kinda fun and you don't have to clip 'em if you don't want to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 5, 2002 Share Posted September 5, 2002 There is this ingenius thing called a GUIDEBOOK. Look for bolted climbs in Leavenworth and 9 times out of ten they will be slabs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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