thelawgoddess Posted September 5, 2002 Author Share Posted September 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by matt warfield: you don't have to clip 'em if you don't want to.i didn't clip 'em all. "clip 'em or skip 'em" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allison Posted September 5, 2002 Share Posted September 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by flick: There is this ingenius thing called a GUIDEBOOK. Look for bolted climbs in Leavenworth and 9 times out of ten they will be slabs. Yah, sure, except the guidebook is out of date, and out of print. Give me a break. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 5, 2002 Share Posted September 5, 2002 Just drive up the canyon and look for the bolts.  Or try borrowing a book. What an idear  Better yet is to just go to Vantage if you can't find the bolted slabs in Leavenworth. It's way better out there anyway.  [ 09-05-2002, 12:03 PM: Message edited by: flick ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted September 5, 2002 Share Posted September 5, 2002 Imagine a budding leader, carefully examining the guidebook for a good first 5.7 route. Having selected a good one (3 star, one pitch face climb), she racks up and tackles the circuitous approach only to find..... Merci Mi pitch 1 has only 2 bolts! A little info on the side is a good thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted September 5, 2002 Share Posted September 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by flick: DFA ura numbnuts wanker. Dr. Flash Amazing has been called worse by better (see 97% of all interactions with Trask), and finds your insults blandly unamusing at best. Please try harder next time. Â Sincerely, Dr. Flash "American Badass" Amazing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoker Posted September 5, 2002 Share Posted September 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by flick: There are some nice slab climbs on Givler's Dome. You can see this dome from the road. Try those. I'll second the above. Â And add Nubbin Grubbin at Carino to the list of worthy lines. Â FWIW, I think that Icicle "friction" is closer to small edges. Darrington and Static point have much better "pure friction". Someone mention the "Kone"? Yeah baby thats some fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted September 6, 2002 Share Posted September 6, 2002 Yup, the Kone is great, just did it for the first time this summer. Here's to David & Matt & anyone else involved in replacing the rusty quarters with nice fat bolts  Peter, the climb on Glacier Point you're thinking of is Galactic Hitchhiker. Here's a link to a topo and trip report from the second ascent: GALACTIC HITCHHIKER It really looks like a gas, but I'm not sure what the risk level is these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted September 6, 2002 Share Posted September 6, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Mitch you are the true wanker. Gratuitously slamming Scott. What's up with that? Check out his site. (NWOG.org) wanker wanker wanker Like I said: wank-teryx. I really liked the Sabre TR. "Make sure to bring radios." And the rating system. Its got a lot of bolts and it's easy to top-rope. I give it an "8", pee pee. wanker wanker wanker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted September 6, 2002 Author Share Posted September 6, 2002 quote: Originally posted by flick: There is this ingenius thing called a GUIDEBOOK. Look for bolted climbs in Leavenworth and 9 times out of ten they will be slabs. hmm, i never thought of that. Â i have a guidebook - duh, mr. genius. doesn't mean shit. neither "condorphamine" nor "solid gold" are in there. there's actually lots of climbs that aren't. and it's nice to know about climb at other places since l-worth isn't exactly my first choice of where to go climbing anyway. break out beyond the guidbooks, son, and you might learn a thing or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted September 6, 2002 Share Posted September 6, 2002 quote: i didn't clip 'em all. Good strategy. I got pumped hangin' all those draws! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 6, 2002 Share Posted September 6, 2002 Everyone knows they are not in the guidebooks but the overwhelming amount of information on these climbs is out and about. Â I do venture beyond guidebooks. There are some nice slab climbs on Givler's Dome. You can see this dome from the road. Try those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted September 6, 2002 Share Posted September 6, 2002 quote: Originally posted by flick: Just drive up the canyon and look for the bolts.  Or try borrowing a book. What an idear  Better yet is to just go to Vantage if you can't find the bolted slabs in Leavenworth. It's way better out there anyway. God forbid she should go on a climbing message board and ask some climbers for information. After all, this is the internet, not some vast, inexpensive way to conveniently gather information on anything one might imagine from a nearly infinite varietey of sources! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 6, 2002 Share Posted September 6, 2002 DFA you are right and I *did* provide some advice if you can read above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrueger Posted September 6, 2002 Share Posted September 6, 2002 quote: Originally posted by flick: Or try borrowing a book. What an idear But a guidebook won't sandbag you like Dru will, so it's just not as exciting that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted September 6, 2002 Share Posted September 6, 2002 Of course Dr. Flash Amazing is right! DFA is in the business of being correct at all times. Â But anyway, by the time you decided to be "helpful," it was too late. You had already slipped too far into unhelpful wankdom, and the good Doctor was forced to go in for the kill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 6, 2002 Share Posted September 6, 2002 DFA ura numbnuts wanker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted September 6, 2002 Author Share Posted September 6, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: But anyway, by the time you decided to be "helpful," it was too late. You had already slipped too far into unhelpful wankdom, and the good Doctor was forced to go in for the kill. thanks, doc! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted September 6, 2002 Share Posted September 6, 2002 Darn the risk level is what I was wondering about. It sounds like a fun route! I say a trip next June is in order! Maybe I'll post aquery on the Supertopo site. And since we are chatting about Yosemite don't forget the Cathedral Apron. A bit steeper than the GP Apron but some good smears noentheless! Scary too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted September 6, 2002 Share Posted September 6, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: quote:Originally posted by Peter Puget: Mitch you are the true wanker. Gratuitously slamming Scott. What's up with that? Check out his site. (NWOG.org) wanker wanker wanker Like I said: wank-teryx. I really liked the Sabre TR. "Make sure to bring radios." And the rating system. Its got a lot of bolts and it's easy to top-rope. I give it an "8", pee pee. wanker wanker wanker Let the people decide for themselves! Sabre TR Â Gotta be honest - I'd love to see Cavey's Lichtenberg route done up in that format if not quite the same style. Or actually any of a dozen TRs that have appeared on this site. Â I just might write up a report of Cavey's route if it doesn't rain Sunday. Â PP Â [ 09-06-2002, 11:40 AM: Message edited by: Peter Puget ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 7, 2002 Share Posted September 7, 2002 Sabre is a nice route. I have only done it once I think. Â Have fun on Lberg if you go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle_Tricky Posted September 7, 2002 Share Posted September 7, 2002 You love slab climbing, eh? What about dirty slab climbing in the rain on no sleep after trudging miles through the snow in tennis shoes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted September 7, 2002 Author Share Posted September 7, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Uncle Tricky: You love slab climbing, eh? What about dirty slab climbing in the rain on no sleep after trudging miles through the snow in tennis shoes? oddly enough, i haven't been back to darrington since! i don't think i was really loving slab climbing back then ... and i still don't like it in the rain. but one of these days i'll have to go back and give those dirty slabs another chance to prove their worthiness ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted September 7, 2002 Share Posted September 7, 2002 Don't fall for it. It rains up there 366 days a year and the "slabs" are nothing but choss. The climbing is much better at exit 38. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted September 7, 2002 Author Share Posted September 7, 2002 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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