[TR] The Tooth - Someone cut a rap anchor!!!!!!!!!!!!- Easy Route 9/6/2004

[mr.radon]

Climb: The Tooth - Someone cut a rap anchor!!!!!!!!!!!!-Easy Route

 

Date of Climb: 9/6/2004

 

Trip Report:

All right I go to take a novice out to the Tooth.

We left late to avoid the crowds. There was a party of two coming off and a party of three. No problem. I saw the party of two rap the gully were the climb starts. And I remeber checking out the rap sling there. Two pretty new slings were on the first rap, two that were so-so and one that was a little iffy. Half way up the party of three rap's past us, no big deal. They were here from South America (Argentian) on a month long vacation. They are total TOOLS!!!!

I saw them hike out the way you come in thinking why did they do that?

Well we rap off the summit and go set the rap for the gully. They cut all the slings! Even the two good ones that were like brand new. They also took the rap rings??? WTF???? There were two rap rings and they took them. They better not run into me again while they are out here. I can see pulling skank slings but to cut every single sling take the rings and leave the slings is uncalled for. The slings weren't even stuck they just didn't even bother to haul them out.

I wrapped a cord around the anchor and added two sling pieces so I could rap off the gully, it was getting late and this was much faster. If anyone heads up there bring a rap ring or two and some webbing. I wish I had gotten there names. Two Americans and there Argentian girlfriend.

Does anyone just cut a rap anchor even if all the slings are bad? I figure leave it so the rap rings stay, cut off the skank one(s) and add a new sling or just leave it alone.......

[Alasdair]

Yes, I cut rap anchors if all the slings are bad. I personally encorage people to remove bad, misplaced or otherwise useless rap anchors. If there are rap rings on them they they are added to my rack to be placed the next time I need them.

[mattp]

I'd say it is pretty obnoxious to remove a long established rap station from an established climb like that, but I gotta say I've always wondered why anybody would rap that gully. It has always looked vaguely dangerous to me (I worry about inexperienced climbers kicking rocks) and I don't see how the rappels could be faster than walking back around the way you came -- unless, in early season, you are timid about descending "steep" snow.

[specialed]

Rap rings and tat are hard to come by in Argentina. I guess the ethic down there is if you come across either on a climb, its fair game. They probably assumed it was the same thing here.

Who cares anyway. The next herd of mounties carrying 800 feet of 1 inch tubular and 50 rap rings will make it all OK again.

 

Consider it global wealth distribution

[Stefan]

Rap rings and tat are hard to come by in Argentina. I guess the ethic down there is if you come across either on a climb, its fair game. They probably assumed it was the same thing here.

Who cares anyway. The next herd of mounties carrying 800 feet of 1 inch tubular and 50 rap rings will make it all OK again.

 

Consider it global wealth distribution

 

I can't speak for all Argentinians, but stuff has been hard to come by in Argentina for the past several years. Something about their currency. They probably thought it was booty. I can't blame them.

[Dru]

...and yet they managed to beat the USA at Olympic basketball...

[catbirdseat]

I'd have to agree with Matt. Under normal circumstances, it is a lot faster to just walk off than to rap that gully.

[enem]

they cut more sling actually...saw one of them cut off a ratty one at the next rap station up. 'wow, what sling crusaders! and they're cleaning off the loose rock too!' i thought to myself as a largish rock flies 2 feet away from my head...btw i was in the party of 2 rapping down by you guys, thanks for letting us pass.

[Cpt.Caveman]

get over it. They were not the first or last.

[dberdinka]

They better not run into me again while they are out here.

 

Why not??

[ashw_justin]

Haha that's hilarious. But how did you know they were Argentinians?

[Off_White]

get over it. They were not the first or last.

 

I dunno, seems like I read how someone or other got their knickers in a twist over gumbies dropping rocks recently.

[AlpineK]

I shudder at the thought of somebody actually having to put new slings on a rap anchor let alone back up or, gasp, create their own rap anchor...oh the horror

[Cpt.Caveman]

get over it. They were not the first or last.

 

I dunno, seems like I read how someone or other got their knickers in a twist over gumbies dropping rocks recently.

 

Is that you?

[Dru]

where is the new avatar "sling_cutting_thief"

[tomtom]

Were they wearing helmets while cutting slings?

[iain]

at least they did not cut them while they were in use. and how did they get down? just loop the rope around the rock?

[Cpt.Caveman]

at least they did not cut them while they were in use. and how did they get down? just loop the rope around the rock?

 

This sounds like the gulley to pineapple pass. If that is true - you can walk around.

[Dru]

if you practiced rapping off hooks like in the "ball of twine" thread you would know rap slings are superfluous to the lightweight speed climber anyway

[specialed]

THE HORROR THE HORROR