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Posted

The wayout boulder exit 38 approach trail to the trestle as you start to enter clearing 150ft before you go under the trestle at boulder in trail go right along log with rub marks here you find the wayout boulder 35ft wide 18ft tall slightly overhanging gradualy goes uphill from left to right.Yo mama (because it's as wide as yo mama) V-2 traverse from left to right any way you can. Yo mama goes down V-3 from right to left going down hill. Low traverse keeping feet 1ft from ground undone thought to be v-4+ or v-5 (let me know if you send) some 5.12 climbers have been trying this one. Outbreak V-0 from left going right out feature in center hoping those jugs at the top don't break off when your toping out. To right of feature in center outtabounds V-1. Outdated 5.9 center feature going straight up and out. Small boulder just before you round the conner to the wayout boulder has old round Railroad spike at base sit start: You hurt me V-0

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Posted

i can verify the rattlesnake lake bouldering - it was accessible a couple of months ago but the waters still pretty high - you could do a swimming start if you wanted...

 

anyone want to go stand in line at 38 this weekend?

Posted

as far as west side bouldering goes....there are many boulders.......i personally know about where like 50 of them are in different locations....

 

all ya goota do is go for a hike and wham! there are boulders.....some really awesome clean granite ones too..

 

pm and i might share!

Posted

Plenty of bouldering within an hour of Eugene and all west of the Cascades. Just need to know where to go. Many secret spots being developed as we speak from V-easy to V-8. Also, Lost rocks in Northern Cali is awesome for those of you who live down this way. Awesome way to spend a weekend. Huge highballs right on the Coast.

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by ryland moore:

Plenty of bouldering within an hour of Eugene and all west of the Cascades. Just need to know where to go. Many secret spots being developed as we speak from V-easy to V-8. Also, Lost rocks in Northern Cali is awesome for those of you who live down this way. Awesome way to spend a weekend. Huge highballs right on the Coast.

ummmmm, friend, when are we going bouldering???

[big Grin]

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by dyno merchant:

bellingham bouldering...hundereds of problems...V0-V9...harder projects...more areas being developed as we speak...

 

but you could just go to the Udub wall...hah!

Can you tell us the location of this bouldering area?

Posted

sometimes they have these playground toys at costco complete with climbing walls, jon and I often sit start on em

 

after a brisk workout, we then go to the front of the store and get a tube steak and coke for $1.50, now thats what i call a fine bouldering experience

 

[HORSECOCK]

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by gapertimmy:

sometimes they have these playground toys at costco complete with climbing walls, jon and I often sit start on em

i bet those cutie pie 6-year-olds really get a kick out of that! [Wink]

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by sexual chocolate:

quote:

Originally posted by dyno merchant:

bellingham bouldering...hundereds of problems...V0-V9...harder projects...more areas being developed as we speak...

 

but you could just go to the Udub wall...hah!

Can you tell us the location of this bouldering area?

It's not just one bouldering area...but about 4 or 5 with more on the way. If your looking for classic Bellingham sandstone, there is alot of new stuff at Larrabee and Sehome. If you have visited these areas before they may not seem to extensive...but alot has gone on in the last few years (especially this summer!). Sehome has almost 50 new problems-most being at the top of the hill (truly amazing problems!). Larrabee's new stuff is mostly harder additions and projects mixed in with other walls already being climbed on...except for south of clayton beach. Mt. baker hwy is starting to see action, especially on one large and extremely overhanging boulder (a true gem). The bat caves (if you can stand the hike with a pad which is manditory there) has some beautiful problems despite the boulders "chossy" appearance. If you want beta on specific areas, problems, style of problems (steep, vert., traverses) etc. post with a specific...I don't have "secret" areas! I'll hook you up with the good stuff.
Posted

quote:

Originally posted by sexual chocolate:

quote:

Originally posted by dyno merchant:

bellingham bouldering...hundereds of problems...V0-V9...harder projects...more areas being developed as we speak...

 

but you could just go to the Udub wall...hah!

Can you tell us the location of this bouldering area?

I sent you a PM about Larrabee State Park stuff-will send you more later...I'm tired and going to bed!
Posted

there will be no dissin' the UW wall! that shit was a 5 minute drive from my apartment when i lived downtown and i gained a load of crack climbing skills scaling the finger to fist sized cracks there.

 

and not to mention it was a convenient place to swill beers while climbing and meeting some cool folks. you can't ask for better artificial outdoor climbing in a major metropolitan area, can you?

 

when i spent thanksgiving with the inlaws in seattle this last year, i took off t-day morning for a bit o' bouldering at the UW rock. of course, it was damp, overcast and pissing rain, but i laced up and had a hell of a time all by myself. i left completely drenched and missing some skin on my knuckles, but dammit, that was a fun time in the peaceful morning rain. all the slippery chalk made some moderate traverses and problems seem monumentally difficult. it was a great challenge.

 

woohoo!

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by offwidthclimber:

there will be no dissin' the UW wall!

Sure there will. I did the first time I went down there and some idiot said, "You get this rock, and this rock,..." I couldn't even stand in the cracks, let alone climb them. It was oh so convenient, though, and I became one of those people saying, "Here's a new problem." I learned to jam. I met great new partners.

 

It looks goofy but it works like genius. We asked one of the math profs who designed it if they had seen all the possibilities in it, and he said yes with a straight face. Like with any kind of bouldering, you have to be creative and keep trying crazy impossible stuff, or follow around someone else who will.

 

For a workout, try traversing the entire structure, both sides of all features, with no rocks for the feet. Also, can you do the complete traverse with no rocks for the hands? If not, what's the minimum number of rocks for the hands, (anything in for the feet)?

 

The Rock is yesterday's news, but it was good in it's day.

 

Andy Cairns

Posted

The UW rock is great... talk to the other people, be inventive, if you can't get pumped down there then you're either superhuman or not trying hard enough. Paying for a gym membership in the sunny season seems like a waste of $$$ to me, it's plastic for crying out loud.

Posted

there's a difference between getting pumped and getting a workout.

 

why is gym climbing any different to sport climbing outdoors than the husky wall is to climbing on real boulders outdoors? hmm??? (some of you just aren't getting it!)

Posted

Yup, that's me, I absolutely don't get that part. The gym's full of plastic. It's not even close to the real thing, although you can easily get pumped, get a workout, whatever.

 

If you positively can't stand the concrete, stick to the rocks. If they aren't rock-like enough for you, go to the gym.

 

If getting pumped is no problem, and your tendons get all sore, what part are you missing from the workout? Enlighten me, because I'm really curious.

 

I didn't intend to get into defend-the-rock mode here, the biggest reason I like it so much is that it's the only option I have for climbing in my lunch break, on the way home from work, etc. I'd love to have time to drive out of the city for a 1 hour session, but seldom do.

Posted

This is RURP:

 

"why is gym climbing any different to sport climbing outdoors than the husky wall is to climbing on real boulders outdoors? hmm??? (some of you just aren't getting it!)"

 

I can answer this question because I "get it". The answer is: there is no difference because THEY ALL SUCK!!!

 

RURP has spoken.

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