billcoe Posted November 2, 2006 Posted November 2, 2006 I'd highly recommend climbing with Joesph out at Beacon, a better partner can't be found, As long as you want a hip belay on what ever you climb and dont talk about bolts, chalk, nesting, meetings, or rangers, you will do just fine. Well, you'll be safe and it will be interesting and intellegent companionship:-). Sometimes the best growth we experience is when we disagree with an idea or philosophy another has. My last regular climbing partner and I use to have heated 10 hour disagreements as we would drive to Yosemite or wherever concerning Water use in the west, resouce allocation, but especially the role of authorities in controlling what he called :the resource". He thought that having park rangers in Yosemite control everyone was a good thing for at least 50 reasons. This kind of thing went on for over 25 years. It contributed to making the trips interesting, memorable, fun, and informative. Quote
pink Posted November 3, 2006 Posted November 3, 2006 the best partners were the ones who like to follow and listen. Quote
billcoe Posted November 3, 2006 Posted November 3, 2006 the best partners were the ones who like to follow and listen. Disagree. The best will pull my ass out of any fire which I stupidly jump into with both feet. I am getting somewhat better at not doing that as much as when I was young. Of course I'm getting lazyier too. Use to be my hands would almost shake I had to climb so bad. I was out the other day and found myself just wandering quietly, studying the wind and the leaves falling, not careing if I got off the ground or not, and actually surprising myself by blowing it off. However: intellegence and preplanning skills cannot be underestimated in our sport as regards to staying safe or alive IMO, and those relate to having fun and contributing to quality of the experience as well. ie: (young me) "We got us plenty of daylight lets leave the headlamps and other weight in in the backpacks right in camp. We can go light." "Oh, I can crank that vertical headwall with a single ice axe, chop a stance and bring you up we'll summit and do a little hiking out in the dark...whats that you say, a storm brewin and we should head down and it will still be dark, no way dude, we got us some of that there vertical ice right here." "Fuck this - I'm too warm, I'm tossing my down coat and we can pick it up when we get down off the wall. Looks like the ice is starting to melt now it's warming up. " "Bullshit it's not gonna avalance and if it does we'll have a piton pounded into solid granite each pitch. We're here and were doing this by God " "Move over bubba I'll lead the damn thing, just because no one has ever done it before don't mean I can't get up it right now. Shit, how runout can it be move outoftheway. " "What do you mean we should head back now cause it getting dark soon? We have all kinds of time, and anyway, how dark can it get anyway?" "Screw it, it might look like a big loose boulder: but shit, how loose could it be, bet I can pull right over that thing, it's going nowhere." As always, your results may vary. Quote
pink Posted November 3, 2006 Posted November 3, 2006 find a partner that will follow and listen, pass down all that good shit you know. poof!!!! instant climbing partner. then you will have somebody too drag your aging ass up the rock when the leaves are falling. Quote
Joe_Poulton Posted February 3, 2009 Posted February 3, 2009 If I send a large photo file of Crown Point to someone on here...I was wondering if I could get routes drawn in on the face. I have an ancient guide book with a sketch showing two routes...I need more info on this cliff. Thanks for any help. Quote
Joe_Poulton Posted February 4, 2009 Posted February 4, 2009 Can someone draw in the routes on my photo? Thanks Quote
Joe_Poulton Posted February 5, 2009 Posted February 5, 2009 I'm re-stitching the above pano...just noticed the branches growing out of the air. great keypoint checking..damn program. Quote
John Frieh Posted February 5, 2009 Posted February 5, 2009 Id be down to try a route. Shoot me a PM Quote
powderhound Posted February 5, 2009 Posted February 5, 2009 Id be down to try a route. Shoot me a PM But I thought you just sold your fusions? Quote
rbw1966 Posted February 5, 2009 Posted February 5, 2009 (edited) Ive done the alpenjager route (sp?) which goes up that splitter separating the right hand spire from the main face. That rock is pretty crappy in places. Be careful. There are a few pitons and if I remember correctly a bolt or two but they were really old. Edited February 6, 2009 by rbw1966 Quote
Joe_Poulton Posted February 5, 2009 Posted February 5, 2009 the yellow is the route I want to try...maybe aid though. Quote
JosephH Posted February 5, 2009 Posted February 5, 2009 That's looks like some serious nasty. Good luck with that and please report back with a TR on how it all goes. Quote
ivan Posted February 5, 2009 Posted February 5, 2009 aiding on vicious choss? and spectacular solid climbs just short drives away? well, i can live vicariously through your TR! or are you planning aid-bolting it, broughton style? Quote
JosephH Posted February 5, 2009 Posted February 5, 2009 P.S. be sure and secure all your bits and pieces well, and maybe even pick a few of these 1/2" x 12" SS bolts... Quote
eldiente Posted February 5, 2009 Posted February 5, 2009 I'm not sure you could even get bolts to stick in that crap. I tried to free climb the first pitch of some route out there years ago and it was like ice climbing on mushy snow. You grab a hold and it would gradually start to compact and slide down until you quickly grabbed another hold and repeat. Too bad, as it is a nice looking wall. Quote
JosephH Posted February 5, 2009 Posted February 5, 2009 That's why you'd use the 12" - they'd probably stay in a fall even if they didn't stick. Quote
Joe_Poulton Posted February 6, 2009 Posted February 6, 2009 aiding on vicious choss? and spectacular solid climbs just short drives away? well, i can live vicariously through your TR! or are you planning aid-bolting it, broughton style? No bolts....maybe a piton or two...but hopefully clean aid. Quote
ivan Posted February 6, 2009 Posted February 6, 2009 groovy - just make certain you got your estate in order beforehand! Quote
billcoe Posted February 6, 2009 Posted February 6, 2009 Damn Joe, you have about 3 of the top current Cascade chossmasters posting in awe on this very thread and you still want to head up there? My hats off to you buddy. The funny part is that when you put your pic up there my eyes went right to that line you later drew in. I whipped out (hey hey -quit that) my Dods book, and it's not in there. So next, I pulled out (stop that!) I got out my Jeff Thomas book and he avoids that just like most sane people would. Next step is to ask Jeff directly. He's just gotten back into climbing after @ 25 year hiatus and as he knows everything about everything and is currently doing the Mazama's Museum: he's probably one of the go-to guys to ask on this. I bet Bob Jensen or Steve Strauch or someone like that did this route in the 70's, but still, it looks like a worthy line to at least recon at the base and look up with binocs. I have some 1/2-13 x 7" Stainless Wedge Anchors in my basement right now, and can get the longer ones much cheaper than the $12 in Josephs link. I don't think you can bag it in a single pitch, and the line doesn't appear to be continuous. In my experience, every time I see something in the gorge that looks relatively easy, it never is....just go do the "Easy" 5.4 on Pillar of Hercules just down the way from your picture first if you need or want a quick and easy demo of that principle. I own every piece of gear known to man and suspect that what appears to be a standard crack is in fact most likely an offwidth. I'll head up there with you and anyone else to check it out (or at least stare up longingly form the base:-) . Not this weekend as Sat I'm climbing, and not Sunday as it's suppose to snow Sat night and I need to get some Skiing in so as not to feel wuss-like. Quote
wayne Posted February 6, 2009 Posted February 6, 2009 Use Short Lines Thread. There was another route done on that face that is not in any book Steve Elder and Tim Olson pioneered a rap bolted line in the center of the wall somewhere. Would mr.Ols chime in? Dont be against an occasional good bolt/pin anchor. There is no need to be pushing it. I had a 25 foot grounder in one of my early goes at CG Choss(Pillars of Hercules 1978). The chimney on Crown Point was a fond memory for young Wayne . Good luck and be safe as can be. Quote
wayne Posted February 6, 2009 Posted February 6, 2009 And..After you get up there, run a garden hose over the edge ! Quote
corvallisclimb Posted February 6, 2009 Posted February 6, 2009 aiding on vicious choss? and spectacular solid climbs just short drives away? well, i can live vicariously through your TR! or are you planning aid-bolting it, broughton style? No bolts....maybe a piton or two...but hopefully clean aid. holy shit! you better keep your fingers crossed!!!! Quote
powderhound Posted February 6, 2009 Posted February 6, 2009 And..After you get up there, run a garden hose over the edge ! Yes Please Quote
fgw Posted February 6, 2009 Posted February 6, 2009 (edited) Mr. Olson's guidebook shows this to be a route but no rating or FA team given. very much look forward to a pic-rich tr. Edited February 6, 2009 by fgw Quote
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