What's the coolest

[Cpt.Caveman]

Route or fun you ever had climbing and why? Sometimes it is the experience and route and sometimes it's the views and the moves or whatever for me.

 

Some of my favs-

 

Cathedral Peak in Sierras (simply the best rock and easiest route)

Hike along PCT from Stevens Pass to Glacier etc (partner was a champ and fun getting eaten by all the bugs)

Angel's Crest at Squishyland (too hard for me to lead but long good route with the best partner possible)

Prusik to Boxtop ridge traverse (Mostly the Monument prusik ascent! I liked it so much I did it twice!)[you have to check this one our in person to understan]

Slesse NE Buttress with epic descent (big route with new partner too, learn more about mtns]

NR stuart [just good and fun]

Exasperator crack climb in Squishyland (just look at it)

Brass Balls following (moves are incredible)

Snow Creek wall OS first time (first multi pitch stellar route)

Midnight Rock Flame Apron route (adventure)

Battered Sanwich at Index (flail bad and send stoned)

Princely Ambitions at Index (a good spicy lead for me)

Midway at Castle Rock first time (always classic sandbag)

Canary at Castle Rock (seal flop every time)

Forbiden Peak (just look at it in person)

Internal Bliss at Tieton (tunnel through the rock and outright fun)

Triple Coolers on Dragontail (without knowing I could lead the cruxes and commiting to it and doing them with a partner I had never climbed with before)

The endless bike rides to bouldering/soloing at Horestooth Reservoir daily

 

Brag all you need

 

[ 08-03-2002, 11:48 PM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

[sk]

two trips stand out as exceptional.

 

Jk and I went to a place named Wolf rock. just us no kids climbed a short but fun arette and met a climbing god

 

went to smith recently with jk and tex and some others. NO kids though. Climbed in the gorge all day. I got to the third bolt(on top rope, wouldn't want any one to get the wrong idea) on pure palms and learned how to drop knee. Oh yeah that was the day that I almost fell into the river and jk saved me along with the amazing healhook I threw just before I would have hit the water

 

[ 08-03-2002, 11:37 PM: Message edited by: sk ]

[plexus]

• Joshua Trip four years ago with my fiancee back when we were just friends.

• Bearpaw Mountain last year

• Tomyhoi Mountain as a whim because I was bored after packing to Yellow Aster Butte.

• Unnamed, unclimbed granite in Northern British Columbia.

• V4 boulder problem down in Oaxaca Mexico on a rock called "The Sandcrawler" after the jawas.

 

And many, many, many of my misadventures with my friends, like rappelling vertical forest (as I was told earlier this week, "you're not a real climber until you have to rappel through forest.")

 

I'll drink a beer to that as soon as I'm done with work in 10 minutes

Cheers!

[Cpt.Caveman]

Raf and I rapelled the forest more than twice and he a ninja climber although he wont admit it. Bouldre probs at Horestooth are stellar and way hard. My fav Boulder problem was there and a simple travers in sneakers but oh so hard for me and 100 yards long. Great stuff!

[bellemontagne]

Hmmm, favorite routes...

 

Smith Rock:

Spiderman

The third pitch of Superslab (the first two pitches are kinda sucky, but the third pitch makes it all worth it)

The free rappel off of the Karate Wall

 

Flagstone:

Toy Box (the route itself isn't the highlight-it's the view from the top of the second and third pitches)

Harp of Stone (maybe one day I can climb the route without having a take)

What's My Line (maybe one day I'll actually be able to finish the route)

 

Obed/Clear Creek:

Most of the routes were totally above my head, but the surroundings are absolutely beautiful.

 

And maybe one day I'll head to the Tetons and Yosemite/Tuolumne - then my favorites will change forever.

 

[ 08-04-2002, 12:49 AM: Message edited by: bellemontagne ]

[Cairns]

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

"

Route or fun you ever had climbing and why? Sometimes it is the experience and route and sometimes it's the views and the moves or whatever for me.

 

Some of my favs-

<etc.>

"

 

Nice list.

 

Does it have to be fun to be fun?

 

Fun department:

 

Experience

Triumph - first Cascades alpine adventure and saw Bob Crawford and Pete Doorish making first ascent of N Butt.

 

Route

Northern Lights - response to bragging offer or doable climb?

 

Views

Table Mountain, Capetown - "the most beautiful women in South Africa go topless on the beach" (Oscar Wohlfahrt quote)plus ocean sunsets plus clouds pouring over the clifftop plus friend's seizure-invoking lycra

 

Moves

Simple Suff(Gunks) Beginner's Demise (Devil's Lake) The hand crack (UW Rock)Because you can do things that look unlikely. All jamcracks were unlikely until I learned the easy way at UW Rock.

 

Whatever

Utah, because of the desert and the walls in Zion.

 

Fun? Department

getting up anything when it's raining, most recently last pitch of Squamish Buttress

 

Andy

[texplorer]

With a few exceptions climbing is always fun for me. Here are my favs:

 

Cooper Spur, Mt Hood -fun route, saw northern lights, first mtn with Highlander

 

North Face, Grand Teton -first long alpine route, fun partners (warped ward), big commitment, 41 hours of no sleep

 

Castleton Tower, Kor Ingalls route -fun partners, awesome climb, views

 

Ancient Art, - exposure

 

Yankee Clipper, Potrero Chico -can you say 15 pitch sport route

 

North Six Shooter, Indian Creek -the classic desert tower

 

Epinepherine, Red Rocks- Chimney galore

 

Salathe Wall, El Cap -nothing like your first el cap route

 

Steck/Salathe route, The Sentinal -The best rock climb I've ever done, great friends, classic yosemite

[krazy_1]

Can I throw one in?

 

I'd have to say my best time climbing was the first time I went to Smith. Can't say that any of the several routes we did were any better than the other, just because we were at Smith all were awesome.

 

The reason why it was so fun was because we packed a few of us in the Mini Winnie with a frig full of beer and Mike's, slept on the edge of the cliff and woke to the scene we all have come to love so much. Good friends, good rock and good times. I think the Winnie made it though. I'm sure a few of you have seen it, white/orange with climbing stickers on it, with dutch girl pedifile curtan's - it's sweet! There is a good boulder route inside too. I think the V scale goes up on it the more you drink, smoke and go through the pass.

[klenke]

If you're truly as hot as your thumbnail picture then you can throw one in any time, Krazy 1. And if anyone complains, tell them Klenke sent you and that Capt. Caveman says it's okay.

[bobinc]

Good thread, obviously.

 

Let's see...

 

JTree: routes on Lost Horse Wall -- just long enough to get off the ground a ways and the moves are generally lots of fun

 

Bird of Fire/Exorcist/Diamond Dogs -- didn't lead 'em but that made me even more impressed with my partner!

 

Forbidden (NW Face of N Ridge) -- we were underprepared but ran into people with enough ice pro and had a great time in perfect weather (except for descent with falling-apart boots)

[bobinc]

Good thread, obviously.

 

Let's see...

 

JTree: routes on Lost Horse Wall -- just long enough to get off the ground a ways and the moves are generally lots of fun

 

Bird of Fire/Exorcist/Diamond Dogs -- didn't lead 'em but that made me even more impressed with my partner!

 

Forbidden (NW Face of N Ridge) -- we were underprepared but ran into people with enough ice pro and had a great time in perfect weather (except for descent with falling-apart boots)

[Figger_Eight]

It seems my most memorable climbs had more to do with who I was climbing with, than the climbing itself. In no particular order:

 

- J-Tree with 4 of my good friends. We were all just learning how to climb, and we got the hard lesson in sandbagged ratings.

 

- North Ridge of Adams. My friend and I did in one push, walking in w/o headlamps under a full moon and climbing in unlimited visibility.

 

- Forbidden Peak. Great climb, great partner.

 

- Seeing the northern lights from high on Rainier. Outstanding.

 

- Rapping off of Monkey Face for the first time. Weeeee!

[bobinc]

Let's see if I can finish this without running afoul of the many "features" of this site...

 

Shuksan -- Fisher Chimneys (Hell's Hwy was interesting because there was a big crevasse open that year requiring us to chop steps up the other side with long axes (no crampons); went with a beginner and we had a great time; White Salmon Glacier -- outstanding skiing all the way from the summit plateau in mid-July (big snow year)

 

Liberty Bell Beckey Route (in a June snowstorm with novice climbers; no one got too worried and the snow made it gorgeous)

 

North Early Winter Spire NW Corner -- got a bit freaked leading the layback pitch but got through it; again impressed by partner's lead of the OW above

 

Middle Cathedral, Central Pillar of Frenzy -- outstanding variety, fun jams, and we chatted with one of the Huber brothers on the descent

[carolyn]

*Quetico Crack, N.Shore Lake Superior. 5.8+ offwidth...my first experience with this..and probably harder than it should been due to my lack of technique. Awesome views, great weather, good friends, and puzzled me to no end. The only way out was up, so I had little choice but to top out.

 

*R&D Route, L'worth. My first multipitch. Fun climbing with good folks. Did my first REAL fist jam on the last pitch. Boy did my eyes light up!

 

Grandy Mardy Falls, Kama Bay, Ontario

About a 2 mile hike in, mostly on a shallow river with a number of short 15-20ft frozen falls to climb. In the end you are rewarded with this grand wall of ice approximately a half mile wide and 150+ft tall. I understand there is another streambed once you top out which brings you to a similar wall of ice. Maybe next year?

 

Silverstar

Although limited peak experiences, this one has been my favorite thus far. The views were amazing!

 

Not counting as a climb...I really enjoyed spending two days at the end of the heliotrope ridge trail on Baker. Would have loved to do some seracing if I had more experience or was with another person. Enjoyed the quiet skies(it was sept 11) and a bit of bouldering on the big rock next to the coleman glacier.

 

Nice topic, cavey!

Have a great trip!

[krazy_1]

"If you're truly as hot as your thumbnail picture then you can throw one in any time, Krazy 1. And if anyone complains, tell them Klenke sent you and that Capt. Caveman says it's okay. "

 

Thanks Klenke - I might have to quote you on that. As far as the thumbnail, I have no nails left, and the glasses I'm sorry I don't have either - looks... are all in the eye of the beholder....... but I know I've turned a few heads.

 

and Klenke - you didn't post your best climb!

[Off_White]

This is a better thread than the poli sci 101 troll, isn't it? I'd agree with Figger 8 that the people on the trip are really what makes the route, so here's a little story for ya'll..

 

One of my fav's was Goodrich to Rim on the Apron in Yosemite. Its a grade V, but all free at 5.9, and I've always adored friction climbing. With friends Galen and Mike, we climbed up to the Oasis to bivy. Water at the bivy site, luxurious ledges, it was great, except the damned snafflehounds robbed the fruit from under my pillow in the middle of the night.

 

Now, Mike had claimed to have done the route the summer before with Bob, another friend. After a couple months Bob had come clean and admitted they just wanted to report an active season in the Valley and they had not actually done the route. The trick is, Galen and I did not let Mike know the we were aware he hadn't done the route. The second day after the Oasis, things get a little weird and unnerving. The route gets steeper and has vastly less traffic, and routefinding is difficult. You wind up wandering around way up high, even downclimbing for part of a pitch, and working your way over to the U-shaped bowl. At every opportunity, about 3 or 4 times per pitch, we kept asking Mike, "Where does it go now Mike?" and Mike was starting to come apart at the seams from the stress of trying to maintain the fiction that he'd been there, when in fact he hadn't a clue where the route went. The final capper was when we got to the last bit, which the old green Roper guide referred to as 3rd & 4th class. We had earlier pressed Mike for details, and he said that he and Bob had just simulclimbed on slabs, putting in a piece here and there. In reality, it was dirt hiking up a corner, and no rope was needed. After we got to the top, Mike sulked and stewed for a few minutes before Galen and I burst out laughing and explained the whole joke to him. It didn't seem like he thought it was as funny as we did, which of course only made us laugh harder. For years after that you could get him to turn red by simply asking "Where do we go now Mike?"

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

On the trad side, that would have to be Outer Space, the location and enjoyability of which probably need not be explained to anyone here. But it's the longest route the usually bolt-clipping Doctor has done, and it was a kick in the ass.

 

In the sport realm, Chain Reaction at Smith is tough to beat. Extremely fun, unusual moves, good rock, great feature, and it's not too long so you don't get pumped out of your mind. Toxic runs a not-too-close second, as the Doctor's most oft'-climbed fun route.

[chucK]

I would love to respond to this freeform chestbeater category

 

Yesterday, Lake Serene, 6+ hours car to car, with my 6 year old daughter. It rained on us a bunch and was cold, but she was smiling the whole way. Eight miles RT, 2K+ feet elevation gain and she running toward the end on the way out . Had a burger at Zeke's on the way home.

[Lambone]

Did Orbit and Outerspace this weekend (first time), I'd have to say that those are the coolest chickenheads I have ever seen!

[Dwayner]

Here's a picture of one them chicken-heads up on Outerspace that Lambone likes so much:

 

 

There's a whole bunch of them up there! Watch out! They'll peck right through your rope!

 

- Dwayner

[Matt_Anderson]

In retrospect, the coolest almost always requires a great partner and expanding the possibilities:

 

1) Regular Northwest on Half-dome - partner and I had no idea if we could do it and fully expected epic - turns out we planned perfectly (mostly guessing and squeaked it out.

 

2) Same route, the next year, different partner and I we able to do it in a day. Again, fully expected a bivy with nothing but the clothes on our back, instead, just the pure joy of 2300 feet of climbing in a day.

 

3) A true "winter" ascent of the east face of monkey face - a cold winter weekend, a crack 'o noon start, snow starts on the first pitch and we finish in a full-on blizzard by headlamp. Could a been patagonia except for the orange tuft and beer at the car. It was my partner's third multipitch ever - zebra zion the day before and some two pitch route in leavenworth the week before. His eyes were huge, but he just kept on truckin for all 7 or so pitches!

 

4) Prussik Peak - couldn't find a climbing partner willing to do the hike in a day, so I went with a friend who marathons and had climbed 4 or so times. Turns out the climbing was no problem, but descending Asgaard was a test of resolve. I forget that scree and talus needs to be a learned skill. She earned more admiration from me that day than just about anyone else I've ever climbed with.

 

The most fun, just requires a great partner. Almost anything is fantastic then.

[Lambone]

yeah, or no partner at all...

[plexus]

MATTB,

 

How crowded was Cathederal? Heading down there next week and it's high on my ticklist...would you call it "Classic" and worth the hastle. Anybody else with some FH info please feel free to offer your assessment.

 

Gracias

[Lambone]

Cathedral is well worth it, once you see it from the road you will know. The climbing is never difficult but very fun, the rock and veiws are beautiful. For a challange link it up with the Eichorn Pinnicle. Or solo it under the moonlight...

 

It is very popular though and I'd recomend doing it on the weekday if possible. Start either very early or late afternoon. The approach takes about 2 hours and the route takes about 3-5 hours for the average party, or 30min if soloed.

 

Have fun!

 

[ 08-05-2002, 07:51 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

[Matt_Anderson]

Doh - good point !

 

I guess then the partner is yourself -

 

One day I walked up to the Petit Gripon in CO and climbed it alone. No one on the route, didn't see anyone within a mile of it, as a matter of fact, Just 8 pitches of consistently beautiful and interesting climbing with fanastic exposure and perfect rock. Perfect leges at each pit that you could sit and think about how lucky you are. The only insecure place is the summit - about two feet wide with hundreds of feet down, as I recall.