Revenge

[RedMonk]

another 5.9 is toxic shock....sweet... both pitches....

[RedMonk]

REAL 5.9 too

[Cpt.Caveman]

I dont believe TS is 5.9 unless you lead the first 10 feet. Have fun!

[Uncle_Tricky]

Also, some stem off the R wall on the second half of Toxic, which cuts the grade.

[texplorer]

The gift that keeps on giving-

 

1 couldn't find a partner

2 couldn't find a partner

3 couldn't find a partner

4 realized I'm a chronic gumby

5 realized I'm sane

[klenke]

Everyone has their nemesis mountain.

 

Mine used to be Mt. Index before I finally dispatched it in May. It only took me 6 tries for the summit to finally succeed.

 

Try 1 (Lake Serene route): underestimated size of mountain. That is, it's not an easy day hike.

Try 2 (south side): logging road was churned up, cross-country not much better, did not make it to summit, weather partly cloudy anyway.

Try 3 (Lake Serene route): tried taking a greenhorn up with me. He slow. Weather completely socked in. Bagged it about halfway.

Try 4 (west side from Persis-Index traverse): got stuck on a ridge pinnacle. Bagged Index and did Persis instead.

Try 5 (Lake Serene route): October climb. Wet rock from frost melt made climbing in hourglass gully impossible. Turned around.

Try 6 (Lake Serene route): Went in early season while hourglass gully still covered in snow. It's easy with snow cover except for the east ridge getting back down to the lake.

 

There are no other mountains in the Cascades for which I have failed more than twice. I have failed twice at Jack Mountain so I suppose that's my new nemesis.

[Guest]

Godzilla is definitely a quality 9, hard to beat in this state I believe.

 

My Ingalls failures:

 

1. Early season, too much snow partner wusses out.

2. Late late season, dumps as soon as we reach lake.

3. Just right season, go to solo it w/o rope for descent. Get lit and wuss out to avoid downclimbing.

 

I am looking for epic level conditions for my fourth attempt, it wouldn't be worthwhile if there were no suffering involved. Maybe a winter ascent via snowshoes. Save the good weather for something better.

[NoBolt]

Kyes peak, 4 Winter attempts. The weather in this area is HELL. Finally made it on a pleasant wintery day.

Issues:

weather

weather

weather

 

Success due to attitude and nice clear days.

[Bianca_Piaggio]

I know I'm going to regret having asked this question, but why does this Caveman guy have a bizarre fascination with F. Beckey?

[Cpt.Caveman]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Bianca Piaggio:

I know I'm going to regret having asked this question, but why does this Caveman guy have a bizarre fascination with F. Beckey?

---

Fred is the baddest mofo on the planet is why. Just try andsend half the number of routes he has done. He already has sent Whitney this year and went on an exp this year and ice climbed more than 20 pitches I bet. he's a walking time machine and a master of rock and alpine. Just try some more of his routes is what I have for advice

 

[ 08-03-2002, 11:52 PM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

[plexus]

And you almost forgot Capt., he's hitting 8, 0 this year.

 

And you call yourself the Capt of the Fred Beckey Fan Club...for shame!!

[allthumbs]

fred's also a babe magnet

let's not forget that-

right allison?

[sk]

I think trask may be on to something here.

Bingo Pajama=Allison

[Bianca_Piaggio]

Nah, I'm my own girl, but thanks for thinking of me anyway.

 

So just because the guy has done a lot of stuff, you just go on and on about him like he's the best thing since sliced bread? Why not E. Veisturs? Why not a million other guys who have done great things? I've watched this board for months and it's always the F.B. hero worship, practially non-stop? Are you somehow responsible for his accomplishments?

[Guest]

We are not responsible for his accomplishments, he is responsible for our accomplishments. Without the routes he created we would have nothing to test ourselves on, nothing to feel badass about at the end of the day, no adventure. Just imagine the climbs that wouldn't be there if he had got into auto racing or bullfighting instead. I wouldn't want to live in that world

[Smoker]

quote:

---

Originally posted by MF206er:

We are not responsible for his accomplishments, he is responsible for our accomplishments.

---

Sho got that right!

[Cpt.Caveman]

BP shut the fuck up cunt. I know who you are duh.

 

Why do you even care what I think?

[klenke]

Binaca or Bianca or whatever it is:

 

I've got three letters for you: CAG. Once you understand the importance of these three letters and the books for which they refer, only then will you understand the importance of a man named Beckey. Do you even climb technical stuff in Washington? If you want lame-o trail stuff, buy Ira Spring.

 

That's all from the Welkin for now.

[klenke]

By the way, Ed Viesturs probably worships Beckey too. And Why Ed Viesturs over Messner? Or why Viesturs over a guy named Jerzy Kukuczka (even though he's dead)?

 

Viesturs is your go-to media guy (see thoughts concerning media in thread titled "What makes an experienced climber?"). That's the only reason people like us know about him unless we know him personally. However, I must say that I have a deep respect for Mr. Viesturs for what he has accmomplished.

 

But Beckey has given us something more--something we can use on a regular basis for reliable information (well, mostly reliable and certainly better than anything you'd buy from Ira Spring). It's a gold mine and where would we Washington climbers be without him and his contributions.

 

Last thing: Capt. Caveman knows Fred personally while I have only been in email correspondence with him.

[texplorer]

And Fred is man who introduced us to Horsecock. I don't know if I could have done half of my climbs without it. Thank you Fred Beckey.

[fleblebleb]

I bet the Cap'n has some dingleberries for you there, Bianga Pighead. I don't care about the occasional name dropping, for sure - Bakey is what, 82 or 83 this year? Isn't he born in '29? The man's a freaking inspiration. I bet when a lot of us hit 40 we won't be in the kind of shape Beckey is in at 80+. Just lay off.

[tread_tramp]

Chimney Rock's got my number. I'll get it someday though. klenke, Jack shot me down last year. Let me know when your third attempt goes. I'm thinking Crater Mtn. approach next time instead of by way of Little Jack.

[Bianca_Piaggio]

Jeez, you guys, yes, I know who Fred Beckey is, man, I was just asking. Of course I use the books just like everyone else, and I've got a handle on his resume, and all of that, but I was just wondering why he gets discussed here so much. It's a simple enough question!

 

Dang, crazy amounts of foul name calling here!

 

[ 08-04-2002, 10:41 PM: Message edited by: Bianca Piaggio ]

[allthumbs]

DIE BITCH

[klenke]

Tread Tramp:

I have attempted Jack Mountain from Little Jack and Jerri Lakes (Crater Mountain Approach). Jack is probably a little closer to the camp site for the former than the latter depending on where you camp. I camped before Little Jack for the first try and got stormed off. I camped at the saddle between the two peaks of Crater Mountain for the second try and got freshied off. It's quite a distance to go to get to Jack from this saddle.

 

I'm thinking the next time I try it I'll do the North Ridge route in 2.5 days as a carry over to the south side. Probably more aesthetic, remote, and scenic than the bleary, steep south slope route.

 

I could see doing it early next month if interested.