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Fitzroy, Cerro Torre, First Ascents?


texplorer

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Greetings friends,

Here is an email I just got from the guy I was going to go to Patagonia with this winter.

 

 

Karsten,

 

Sorry its been so long since my last reply. I broke my foot three weeks ago in the valley, (trying to do the Trip in a day). can you belive that shit. I took an eighty footer and kissed a ledge. hope all is well with you, but I must admit that im a little unsure wether I will have the necessary funds to get to Patagonia. I have 16 dollars in my account right now, and I owe a friend two hundred dollars. I hope this news isnt to bad,but I dont think you can count on me for this trip.

 

please dont hate me, chris

 

So you see I am in the market for a new partner. I hate to be such a snob but when it comes to a trip this big I don't like to take chances. Here is what you MUST be able to do:

-come up with about $2000

-have 6 weeks available in Jan-Feb

-be able to climb SOLID .11 free or better (yosemite or index ratings please)

-be able to aid up to A3 or better

-have experience in alpine environment and with speed climbing walls

-don't suck

 

I know this is a tall order to try to find a climber like this. We were planning on trying to get the second ascent of Fitzroy's El Corazon as well as any line on Cerro Torre and perhaps a first ascent in the range. I kind of doubt I'll find anyone but I thought I would give it a try. Also if you know anyone who might be interested, please forward this on to them.

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Karsten,

 

Sorry its been so long since my last reply. I broke my foot three weeks ago in the valley, (trying to do the Trip in a day). can you belive that shit. I took an eighty footer and kissed a ledge. hope all is well with you, but I must admit that im a little unsure wether I will have the necessary funds to get to Patagonia. I have 16 dollars in my account right now, and I owe a friend two hundred dollars. I hope this news isnt to bad,but I dont think you can count on me for this trip.

 

please dont hate me, chris

 

 

I know that dude.. He works at Teton Profiteering In Jackson Hole grin.gif

 

He IS all banged up hahaha.gif But is a cool guy thumbs_up.gif

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  • 2 weeks later...

ROCK ON TEX!! I hope you find some one. bring back lots of pictures!

 

inorder to meet your goals you must have a team that is capable of the goal. each team is only as strong as their weekest member. I have climbed with Karsten, he has babysat my kids...he is a wonderful and generous man, and if he doesn't want to pay tha kind of money to haul someone elses ass up a mountain, then there is no reason that he should have to.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I think that poor poor Heidi Gunlogson will be taking care of a new baby by then, and would frown on her big baby going to South America. Rat would probably give him a rash of shit for spending alot of money, only to sit in a tent wishing he had a shit load of beer. All in all, a piss poor idea dude.

 

Sincerely

CJZ

Drinking, fighting, and climbing with MG since 1981.

 

 

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I think that poor poor Heidi Gunlogson will be taking care of a new baby by then, and would frown on her big baby going to South America. Rat would probably give him a rash of shit for spending alot of money, only to sit in a tent wishing he had a shit load of beer. All in all, a piss poor idea dude.

 

Piss poor idea? Just making a suggestion. I think Mark and Heidi can decide for themselves what they do for their own time. More than likely Mark will probably suggest Texplorer to another person. No harm, no foul in asking Mark.

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