Paco Posted June 10, 2004 Posted June 10, 2004 So what rock climbing shoes do you like for hard multipitch slab climbs? I have used my 5.10 Moccasyms but I think that something else might work better. The 5.10 sticky rubber is nice, but it gets worn out pretty fast on slab climbs, especially when I start sliding/falling down. Maybe something board lasted for added support? Let me know your thoughts. TIA Quote
fern Posted June 10, 2004 Posted June 10, 2004 it ain't the shoe it's the climber. but don't get them too tight - unscrunched toes. Fit is more important than brand IMO. Quote
wormfighter6 Posted June 10, 2004 Posted June 10, 2004 One of my favorte pairs of shoes is my 5.10 Moccasyms. I have had them resoled 4 times now. They were AWSOME for smearing climbed some of my hardest stuff with them on my feet. I think I will probally buy a new pair later this summer. Quote
slaphappy Posted June 10, 2004 Posted June 10, 2004 I think it kinda depends on if you're an edger or a smearer. A frequent partner of mine is an edger and uses a board lasted shoe to stand on the micro edges. I believe he uses the Sportiva Focus. I tend to drop my heels and smear, even on small edges, and prefer a much softer shoe without a board. I love the Scarpa Marathons with that EVA sole and had good past success with the Mythos although they did not fit my feet properly. cheers! Quote
wormfighter6 Posted June 10, 2004 Posted June 10, 2004 Slaphappy you hit the nail right on the head. Quote
matt_m Posted June 10, 2004 Posted June 10, 2004 Megas or Focus are my shoes of choice - make sure you can keep the toes flat like stated above so you can smear and/or edge in them. I'd highly recommend against mocs as they don't "bite" very well on edges when you smear in them - they tend to just roll off stuff. Quote
JayB Posted June 11, 2004 Posted June 11, 2004 I like the 5.10 ascent on slab climbs. You can get them for cheap on www.sportextreme.com. Quote
munckee Posted June 13, 2004 Posted June 13, 2004 My vote is for any slipper that fits right (I wear mocs). I'm a smearer, so anything that allows me to feel more of the rock is important to me. I guess it depends on fit and style. Quote
Jens Posted June 13, 2004 Posted June 13, 2004 Depends on if the area favors pure friction or edging. The best I ever had was a pair of green asolo runouts that had the edging midsole removed and were resoled with the stealth 2 rubber. The 5.10 friction loafer was said to be pretty good? I think that stealth2 may have been the best all time slab rubber but I think you would have a hard time finding it now. C4 was created to be slightly more edging oriented as slab climbing isn't cool anymore. Anyone try the brand new stealth high fricition rubber? One of the local resolers told me he thought it wears down way to fast. Quote
Paco Posted June 18, 2004 Author Posted June 18, 2004 I bought a pair of 5.10 Anasazi lace-ups last night. The 5.10 lasts really fit my feet well, the 5.10 rubber is super sticky for smearing, and the sole under the footbed is firmer then the moccasyms so I'll be able to edge a lot better. I think this shoe will rock!!! I'll let y'all know how things go this weekend. I'm planning on hopping on Magic Carpet Ride again, and hopefully getting past the second pitch this time. Quote
shapp Posted June 22, 2004 Posted June 22, 2004 I have only climbed with the lace up Anasazis since they first came out back in the early 90s. Then they stopped making the lace ups for a while and I found a couple pairs of seconds at a used sporting goods store in bend, but now they are back. They rock, fit my feet like a glove and work especially well on granite slabs and thin cracks. Quote
Paco Posted June 22, 2004 Author Posted June 22, 2004 Well, I didn't try Magic Carpet Ride this weekend, but I did get on Local Boys Do Good. It's going to take a little to get used to the shoes, but I think they will do really well. The rubber needed to get a little worn to increase the friction. Also, they don't flex as much fore and aft at the ball of the foot as my moccasyms so they feel different while smearing. They also hurt my toes a little, but what else can I expect from new climbing shoes. I also learned that I smear more than edge. It's a funny feeling when you're "crimping" with all your might just to stay on the rock, and all that "crimping" is with your toes while your hands are palm to the rock just for balance. Anyone wanna head out and try some of the harder slab routes on the Apron or by Shannon Falls? If you won't lead it I will, just catch me when I skid off. Quote
Dru Posted June 23, 2004 Posted June 23, 2004 im game for hard slab. i failed to second the crux of magic carpet last year and want a rematch. Quote
thelawgoddess Posted June 24, 2004 Posted June 24, 2004 sweet. paco's got PINK shoes now! do i hear a squamish pub club coming on??? Quote
RuMR Posted June 24, 2004 Posted June 24, 2004 hey...don't knock 'em!!! PS: I'll be in squish TOMORROW!!! Quote
thelawgoddess Posted June 25, 2004 Posted June 25, 2004 you staying more than one day this time? finishing up that route finally? Quote
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