Timcb Posted June 10, 2004 Posted June 10, 2004 So- weekend after this one I start a week off of work/cc.com and a buddy of mine and I are off to the N Cascades for 9 days. I'm looking for steep snow and ice climbs and rock to 5.7. Currently NE Butt of Goode and NE face of Redoubt are high on our list, but I was wondering where you would all spend your week if you were me. I'm thinking the long approach into the picketts would make good use of our time, but what routes in particular are your faves? I'm also starting to drool a little over shuksan's price glacier and the ne butt of J'berg. Anyone do these routes lately/under similar conditions and have any words of wisdom? Any thoughts or routes to look into would be greatly appreciated. I'm psyched Quote
dberdinka Posted June 10, 2004 Posted June 10, 2004 The NE buttress of Goode and NE Face of Redoubt are undoubtedly super bitchen. My dream week would be to hike in Downey Creek to Dome Peak, climb Dome, cross the Chikamin Glacier, climb Sinister and sweet granite on the Gunsite Peaks, hit Agnes if you have time then hike south across the Hanging Gardens to Image Lake and out via the Suiattle River. That would be the schiznit. Quote
Paco Posted June 10, 2004 Posted June 10, 2004 A few weeks ago I was feeling motivated, but the weather was crap. I don't think conditions would be ideal right now either, but my current fantasy week includes the following: Day 1: North Ridge of Baker, then Coleman Headwall. Maybe do both in one push although I would want it to be on an overcast day so I'm not on the headwall on a sunny afternoon. Day 2: Rest or Coleman Headwall depending on above. Drive over to Shuksan. Day 3: North Face of Shuksan Day 4: Rest Day 5/6: Price Glacier with a jaunt up Nooksack Tower. Bivy near Nooksack Tower. I think this would be a fucking awesome week! Make me feel like a poser and go get it all. All these routes would be new to me so therein lies some of the appeal. Quote
Dru Posted June 10, 2004 Posted June 10, 2004 given the weather i hope you have been dreaming about rain and low visibility! Quote
Skeezix Posted June 11, 2004 Posted June 11, 2004 NE Butt Goode is a cool climb ...then you could go up and do Logan. You could climb NE Face of REdoubt and then hike the Redoubt High Route to Whatcom Pass to exit. Quote
JoshK Posted June 11, 2004 Posted June 11, 2004 If you dont plan on skiing the price I'd do it later. I've been in that cirque in the fall and it's a pretty sweet looking glacial ice climb! Quote
Greg_W Posted June 11, 2004 Posted June 11, 2004 Looking a little early for the NE butt on Jberg. Quote
Skeezix Posted June 12, 2004 Posted June 12, 2004 1. NWFace Forbidden 2. NWFace of the N Ridge of Forbidden 3. N Face of Sharkfin Tower Quote
JoshK Posted June 12, 2004 Posted June 12, 2004 1. NWFace Forbidden 2. NWFace of the N Ridge of Forbidden 3. N Face of Sharkfin Tower right on!! Quote
Bill_Simpkins Posted June 13, 2004 Posted June 13, 2004 Fantasy week: 1 & 2 - Cinderella Peak, East Buttress Day 3 - Eat Day 4 - Eldorado, the easy route Day 5 - Eat Day 6 & 7 - Vienesse, East Ridge Quote
eric8 Posted June 14, 2004 Posted June 14, 2004 challenger glacier, fury north butt, luna goodluck with the weather Quote
Dru Posted June 14, 2004 Posted June 14, 2004 start up radium lake trail climb mt. mcdonald continue south along divide around head of centre creek to rexford. descend into nesakwatch creek, cross to slesse, climb NE butt. descend to slesse creek, finish off by ticking border peaks. that'd be a damn fine week in the mountains.... Quote
ScottP Posted June 14, 2004 Posted June 14, 2004 Liberty Bell to SEWS via all summits Traverse the county line and drop to Kangaroo Pass Kangaoo Temple and Little Finger to Wallabee Peak to Half Moon to Big Kangaroo summits. Traverse over to Snagtooth Ridge, tagging summits of interest. Silver Star to Wine Spires to Vasiliki Ridge spires and out Silver Star Creek. Along the way retrieving various caches of alcohol and other quality (read heavy) consumables previously placed at intervals along the route. Quote
pzack Posted June 14, 2004 Posted June 14, 2004 Hey Tim- You should play in the Southern Pickets for a week. WR of Inspiration is a fun route. Little Mac, the McMillon spires, there are a LOT of multipitch climbs under 5.7 up there... Quote
Timcb Posted June 14, 2004 Author Posted June 14, 2004 Awesome- Thanks for all your suggestions. I think I'll be curling up with my beckey guide this week. My 9 day trip begins this friday night, so now the counting down the days and weather watching begins in earnest. It's not going to be too early (snow-on-the-route-wise) for NE buttress of Goode, is it? Thanks again Quote
AllYouCanEat Posted June 14, 2004 Posted June 14, 2004 My dream week? This week right now! Ha. My day dreaming here at work is going to be hard pressed to equal the stupendous week you are going to have this week in the north cascades. So...go get it. Dream week: Southern Pickets Quote
Skeezix Posted June 15, 2004 Posted June 15, 2004 This thread lifts me right out of my chair... Quote
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