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Your/my dream week in the N Cascades


Timcb

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So- weekend after this one I start a week off of work/cc.com and a buddy of mine and I are off to the N Cascades for 9 days. I'm looking for steep snow and ice climbs and rock to 5.7. Currently NE Butt of Goode and NE face of Redoubt are high on our list, but I was wondering where you would all spend your week if you were me. I'm thinking the long approach into the picketts would make good use of our time, but what routes in particular are your faves?

 

I'm also starting to drool a little over shuksan's price glacier and the ne butt of J'berg. Anyone do these routes lately/under similar conditions and have any words of wisdom?

 

Any thoughts or routes to look into would be greatly appreciated.

 

I'm psyched

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The NE buttress of Goode and NE Face of Redoubt are undoubtedly super bitchen.

 

My dream week would be to hike in Downey Creek to Dome Peak, climb Dome, cross the Chikamin Glacier, climb Sinister and sweet granite on the Gunsite Peaks, hit Agnes if you have time then hike south across the Hanging Gardens to Image Lake and out via the Suiattle River. That would be the schiznit.

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A few weeks ago I was feeling motivated, but the weather was crap. I don't think conditions would be ideal right now either, but my current fantasy week includes the following:

 

Day 1: North Ridge of Baker, then Coleman Headwall. Maybe do both in one push although I would want it to be on an overcast day so I'm not on the headwall on a sunny afternoon.

 

Day 2: Rest or Coleman Headwall depending on above. Drive over to Shuksan.

 

Day 3: North Face of Shuksan

 

Day 4: Rest

 

Day 5/6: Price Glacier with a jaunt up Nooksack Tower. Bivy near Nooksack Tower.

 

I think this would be a fucking awesome week! Make me feel like a poser and go get it all.

 

All these routes would be new to me so therein lies some of the appeal.

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start up radium lake trail climb mt. mcdonald continue south along divide around head of centre creek to rexford.

 

descend into nesakwatch creek, cross to slesse, climb NE butt. descend to slesse creek, finish off by ticking border peaks. that'd be a damn fine week in the mountains....

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Liberty Bell to

SEWS via all summits

Traverse the county line and drop to Kangaroo Pass

Kangaoo Temple and Little Finger to

Wallabee Peak to

Half Moon to

Big Kangaroo summits.

Traverse over to Snagtooth Ridge, tagging summits of interest.

Silver Star to

Wine Spires to

Vasiliki Ridge spires

and out Silver Star Creek.

Along the way retrieving various caches of alcohol and other quality (read heavy) consumables previously placed at intervals along the route.

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Awesome- Thanks for all your suggestions. I think I'll be curling up with my beckey guide this week. My 9 day trip begins this friday night, so now the counting down the days and weather watching begins in earnest.

 

It's not going to be too early (snow-on-the-route-wise) for NE buttress of Goode, is it?

 

Thanks again

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