willstrickland Posted May 25, 2004 Posted May 25, 2004 From C Mac: just got off the phone with Beth Rodden-Caldwell who told me about Tommy Caldwell's latest addition to his spree of incredible big wall free climbing ascents. On saturday May 22, Tommy Caldwell finished free climbing the Dihedral Wall which is now likely the hardest big wall free climb in Yosemite, if not the world. Over 4 days, Caldwell, belayed by Beth and Adam Stack, climbed a staggering number of hard free climbing pitches on one El Cap's oldest and most distinct lines. The free version of the Dihedral Wall follows the original aid line very closely with only a few variations. The first five pitches are 5.12. The crux 6th pitch is rated 5.14a, the first pitch to receive that rating on El Capitan. After that comes a unrelenting 9 pitches pitches of 5.13. of those, one is rated 5.13d, a few are rated 5.13c, and many are rated 5.13b Quote
layton Posted May 25, 2004 Posted May 25, 2004 was this just an excuse to let us know that you were on the phone with Beth Rodden-Caldwell? Quote
willstrickland Posted May 25, 2004 Author Posted May 25, 2004 C-mac was on the phone with 'em not me. Quote
cj001f Posted May 25, 2004 Posted May 25, 2004 was this just an excuse to let us know that you were on the phone with Beth Rodden-Caldwell? No, an excuse to brag about browsing Supertacos? Quote
EWolfe Posted May 25, 2004 Posted May 25, 2004 M A C H I N E. Representin' The USA on the big stone Quote
bunglehead Posted May 25, 2004 Posted May 25, 2004 That kid is insane! Upping the ante for the Hubers! Go Tommy! Quote
Lambone Posted May 25, 2004 Posted May 25, 2004 yeah, wow! what's next on his list I wonder... scrawny little Tommy showed those two big macho men what's up. repeating Zodiac Free, and firing Dihedral in the same year. Dude is tough! Quote
Dru Posted May 25, 2004 Posted May 25, 2004 tommy caldwell has 9 fingers frodo baggins has 9 fingers. coincidence? or is there some sort of elvish magic at work? Quote
willstrickland Posted May 25, 2004 Author Posted May 25, 2004 Hmm, der Huberbuam are gettin' a run for their money: Huber: El Corazon(Salathe',Albatross,Son of Heart,Heart Route), El Nino(NA Wall), Salathe', Free Rider (Salathe'->Excalibur), Golden Gate (Salathe, Heart), Zodiac. Caldwell: Salathe, Lurking Fear, Muir, Zodiac, Dihedral Wall, West Buttress. Quote
JoshK Posted May 25, 2004 Posted May 25, 2004 but tommy hasn't free soloed 14a Yeah, and he'll probably live longer because of it. Wow, amazing stuff...I can't believe climbing that hard, let alone that many hard pitches in one climb. Quote
RuMR Posted May 25, 2004 Posted May 25, 2004 Hmm, der Huberbuam are gettin' a run for their money: Huber: El Corazon(Salathe',Albatross,Son of Heart,Heart Route), El Nino(NA Wall), Salathe', Free Rider (Salathe'->Excalibur), Golden Gate (Salathe, Heart), Zodiac. Caldwell: Salathe, Lurking Fear, Muir, Zodiac, Dihedral Wall, West Buttress. and caldwell is doing them hella faster too...also of note, he's about 2 grades harder on the sport side of it... Quote
Dru Posted May 25, 2004 Posted May 25, 2004 huber Om 14d Open Air 14d caldwell kryptonite 14c/d, flex luthor unrated how is that "two grades harder" sounds damn near identical to me Quote
thelawgoddess Posted May 25, 2004 Posted May 25, 2004 yeah, but he doesn't look nearly as hot in lederhosen! (tommy rocks, though!) Quote
Dru Posted May 25, 2004 Posted May 25, 2004 free routes on El Cap or wherever that are all free climbing are so 90's. the new rage in freeing big wall routes is incorporating dry tooling like this new Grade VI 5.13- D10+ in the black canyon Quote
brook_alongi Posted May 25, 2004 Posted May 25, 2004 I just returned from the valley and saw Tommy at the base of the Captain. Everyone in Camp4 was buzzing about it. The word didn't really get out until 2 days before he freed it. Apparently there are a few 5.14 pitches. One that I know of for sure. Nice job Tommy... Quote
jja Posted May 25, 2004 Posted May 25, 2004 free routes on El Cap or wherever that are all free climbing are so 90's. the new rage in freeing big wall routes is incorporating dry tooling like this new Grade VI 5.13- D10+ in the black canyon Nelson decided to try dry tooling, with rock shoes on his feet and leashless ice tools in his hands. He had modified one tool for the crux by bolting a Pecker micro-piton to the pick. Using these tools, Nelson, who has redpointed 5.13+ and M12, was able to “free climb” the pitch on his fourth attempt. .. I doubt this is going to catch on Quote
cj001f Posted May 25, 2004 Posted May 25, 2004 free routes on El Cap or wherever that are all free climbing are so 90's. the new rage in freeing big wall routes is incorporating dry tooling That's 90's too. Pete Takeda? took one to do a bunch of the mud towers. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.