assmonkey Posted May 19, 2004 Share Posted May 19, 2004 I'm nosy, so I was poking around on Jason Martin's site, and I found this link (JTree crack list), and then I found this link (crack workshop). Since I am currently trying to differentiate my ass from a hole in the ground at Index, I was wondering if any of you Index masters would care to craft a list like the one noted in the link above for us (I'm sure there are more than just me) Index wanna-bes. I would love to progress at Index, but I don't know where to start or where to go. Maybe you guys have covered this already, but I didn't find anything like it by searching. What is the path to redpointing Thin Fingers? assmonkey wants to know. - a s s m n k e y Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted May 19, 2004 Share Posted May 19, 2004 I would suggest going to the UW Rock and start practicing on the cracks there. After you get them wired w/o feet start doing things like seeing how many jams you can fit into a particular crack. The crux on Thin Fingers is a face move at the bottom. If you have the UW Rock mastered, Thin Fingers will be easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted May 19, 2004 Share Posted May 19, 2004 Thin Fingers is actually a pretty easy route for Index. Its sinker hands all the way up. Here is a brief stab at something similar to the "Crack List" in your second link Index Cracks: 5.8 p1 Even Steven p1 that approach pitch to GNS, forget its name - wide p1 GM "5.9" - these are all pretty real for 5.9s Toxic Shock p1 Jap Gardens Godzilla Rogers Corner p1 Davis Holland 5.10a p2 GM -> Heart of the Country as one pitch sinker great practice for Thin Fingers! Breakfast of Champions - more great practice for Thin Fingers! "5.10a" Libra Crack - thin hands! Saggitarius - long pitch with everything! hard 5.10 Davis-Holland on UTW Godzilla p2 and Slow Children Thin Fingers (I dont think its 11a at all, sorry) 5.11 Even Steven, upper Iron Horse others I am not good enough to climb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted May 19, 2004 Share Posted May 19, 2004 Senior Citizens in space is a great 5.8 thin hand crack at Private Idaho. Nice 5.9 offwidth Battered Sandwich is right next to it. Also good 5.8's and .9's on that wall to the right as you hike up to the Inner walls. I think it's "Happy Puppy" and "Who put the purr in my pussy". I backed off what looked like a great 5.8 crack climb "Al's Armed Response" in the same area. It needed some major gardening (a year ago) and my belayer was being swarmed by yellowjackets so I downclimbed pretty fast. It has pretty cool positioning right on the end of an arete with a big ole crack splitting it perfectly. Index is a great place to learn crack climbing because of the bomber rock quality and good pro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted May 19, 2004 Share Posted May 19, 2004 What is the path to redpointing Thin Fingers? assmonkey wants to know. To specifically train for Thin Fingers you could toprope Thin Fingers to death. You can get a rope up there by either climbing Tatoosh/Free At Last (5.9 burly squeeze) or Narrow Arrow Standard (5.6 hanta-virus chockstone crawling) to the big ledge with big tree, then climb down a tree to the TF anchors. If you find a 70m rope you can toprope it from the ground. There is a nice sustained section of sinker hands, but I don't know how Alex can characterize it as sinker hands all the way. The sinker hands is a rest between the hard parts. Add: Rattletale 10a/b to the list above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gripped Posted May 19, 2004 Share Posted May 19, 2004 5.8 p1 that approach pitch to GNS, forget its name - wide p1 of the Lizard (aka Aries). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farrgo Posted May 19, 2004 Share Posted May 19, 2004 What about princely ambitions (10a??). it's pretty slabby with flake moves along the bottom but up toward the top there some crack. also the second pitch has got some good crack climbing on it. what is that 11a on the right crack parallel to princely ambitions pitch 2?. Oh ya, second pitch of city park is pretty killer too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr._Natural Posted May 19, 2004 Share Posted May 19, 2004 Oh ya, second pitch of city park is pretty killer too. = Godzilla p2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_m Posted May 19, 2004 Share Posted May 19, 2004 Thin Fingers is actually a pretty easy route for Index. Its sinker hands all the way up. Here is a brief stab at something similar to the "Crack List" in your second link Index Cracks: 5.8 p1 Even Steven p1 that approach pitch to GNS, forget its name - wide p1 GM "5.9" - these are all pretty real for 5.9s Toxic Shock p1 Jap Gardens Yeah - thin fingers is actually that near the bottom of the crack but it rapidly opens up to nice hands. Uhmm - P1 of Jap Gardens is not 5.9 - Going to the intermediate rap anchors is 5.9+ I'd venture. Going all the way to the top of P1 is 11c (I think the lower 11b crux in the cramer book is actually harder and i think the 11b crux on the full Sagittarius is harder still) that said the mid anchor on Jap Gardens is great lieback crack practice - won't get you ready for thin fingers though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted May 19, 2004 Share Posted May 19, 2004 um princly a (5.9) doesn't have very much crack In order to construct a list for index similar to the J-tree ones you would have to do a lot of cleaning I think so get out your sky valley rock and brush has libra or pitch 3 of gm been mentioned, timberjack has some crack but you can lie back it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougT Posted May 20, 2004 Share Posted May 20, 2004 The Key is simple... Take bunch of gear and fall your monkeyass...er...Assmonkey up the route. Their is no shame in falling and "French Free-ing" a route that chalenges you. If you have to, place a piece of gear, yard up on it, stand in a sling, whatever. When you get to the top, pull up a second rope (one 60 meter wont get you to the ground), set up a top rope and have fun. Don't let anyone tell you Thin Fingers ain't 11A. Personally I find Thin Fingers harder than all the 10's I've done at Index. It's easier than all the 11b's and the few 11c's I've done there. I've been on the route in the past few weeks with a partner (that just redpointed an 11c face/crack at Index) who would tell you it's every ounce of 11A. So A.M., if you're going to be differentiating between your backside and a hole in the ground, this guide-line might help: Ratings are normally accurate to within a letter grade but can be off more. So don't be surprised if a 10A kicks your ass and another 10A is a walk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted May 20, 2004 Share Posted May 20, 2004 The key is simple... Climb a lot of steep sport routes and a few 5.8 cracks. Its all one hard face move and endurance. 10D, 11A who gives a Rats... er Monkey's Ass the climb is great and you'll feel great when you put it to rest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted May 20, 2004 Share Posted May 20, 2004 Breakfast of champions 10- Marginal karma 11- Slow childern 10+ The Zipper (P1) 10 Narrow arrow direct 10+ Being both meek and weak, We never passed up a TR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted May 20, 2004 Share Posted May 20, 2004 2nd and 3rd pitches of Rattletale 10a/b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD_CILLEY Posted May 22, 2004 Share Posted May 22, 2004 If u want to triumph at Index,go learn to climb cracks in Leavenworth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted May 22, 2004 Share Posted May 22, 2004 Has anyone climbed that incredible 12c crack on Giviler's dome? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 "Has anyone climbed that incredible 12c crack on Giviler's dome? " lately prolly just lizards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallstein Posted May 28, 2004 Share Posted May 28, 2004 I shredded my fingers so bad on "the incredible 12c at givlers" it took almost 2 weeks to heal. Steep and really sharp. didn't even get to the top. Schooooled Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted May 28, 2004 Share Posted May 28, 2004 i wonder how many repeats that gem has seen... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted May 28, 2004 Share Posted May 28, 2004 Are you talking about Never Never, Skinner's route on the left side? I'm kinda curious about repeats too.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted May 29, 2004 Share Posted May 29, 2004 affirmative Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted May 30, 2004 Share Posted May 30, 2004 -never heard of anybody repeating that givler's thing. One guy who did a bunch of hangdogging on it mentioned to me that it felt more like .13? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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