DougT

Flashclimber is being a bit modest. Over the years we've had a lot of common projects as our climbing ability has been very much comparable. It's been very much the norm for both of us to send the same project on the same day with the person winning the Paper,Scissors,Rock for first lead getting the first send. Flashclimber went first and as expected, led through the first pitch like he was climbing 5.6. The upper crux was more of a problem for him than me but he decided that the easiest way was to just leap for it. So leap he did, and nailed it. Once he landed the hold, it was certain he'd climb the rest. Funny thing about the climb, it was on my 4th attempt that I finally got a chance to climb it without the rain to shut me down. 3 times I've either been on the climb, or about to start and been shut down by rain. Sherri: It really is nice to check it off the tick list. Wayne: Let me know when you wanna lead it. I'll give you a catch. genepires: Yup, You've described the second piece well. Honestly, that placement is as solid as any other on the route yet only protects 6 feet of climbing. kurthicks: Not replacing the anchor... but something really fun to come!

Last time I went I had to put up with a drum circle until 2 a.m. Just in case you're reading this drummers... Your drum circle sucks and you make others suffer so you can enjoy your brain altered state all hours of the night. Never went back.

You're right Chris54. Tribe has spoken and they don't care. On the other hand, the person who put the bolt in clearly gives enough to put time and effort in. So I'll put up or shut up. I will gladly go up the line with the person who placed the bolt in a 100% friendly and open minded way. I will show the available gear. If afterwards, he is still convinced that a bolt is the only adequate protection, so be it. If after climbing the line he is convinced by my position, I'll help remove the bolt and the evidence that it existed. He can contact me through my website DougTaylorReptiles.com, pm my through this site or find me at Index with a T-Shirt on my head.

The Key is simple... Take bunch of gear and fall your monkeyass...er...Assmonkey up the route. Their is no shame in falling and "French Free-ing" a route that chalenges you. If you have to, place a piece of gear, yard up on it, stand in a sling, whatever. When you get to the top, pull up a second rope (one 60 meter wont get you to the ground), set up a top rope and have fun. Don't let anyone tell you Thin Fingers ain't 11A. Personally I find Thin Fingers harder than all the 10's I've done at Index. It's easier than all the 11b's and the few 11c's I've done there. I've been on the route in the past few weeks with a partner (that just redpointed an 11c face/crack at Index) who would tell you it's every ounce of 11A. So A.M., if you're going to be differentiating between your backside and a hole in the ground, this guide-line might help: Ratings are normally accurate to within a letter grade but can be off more. So don't be surprised if a 10A kicks your ass and another 10A is a walk.