Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted April 22, 2004 Posted April 22, 2004 Anybody else read the article in the latest Rock & Ice detailing the history of sports climbing in America on the occasion of its 21st birthday? Really a first-rate bit of reportage from climbing journalist Matt Samet, who seems to devote most of his writing to less substantive topics. Stories of Jim Karn's "wobblers", chipping and gluing's role in the development of the sport, and color commentary from all the sportie visionaries make for an enjoyable, and, rare for a magazine, enjoyably lengthy read. Highly recommended; four stars out of four on the Dr. Flash Amazing Scale for the Assessment of Quality in Written Works, and a nomination for the AmazingCo Foundation's Excellence in Sport Climbing Journalism Prize, to be awarded this August at the Louvre in Paris. Quote
snoboy Posted April 22, 2004 Posted April 22, 2004 And where would we find this most erudite piece? Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted April 22, 2004 Author Posted April 22, 2004 Edited for your edutainment. Checkit. Quote
eric8 Posted April 22, 2004 Posted April 22, 2004 Yeah, I read it and really enjoyed it the whole issue was better then most r and i i have seen lately. One thing I notice, it was not the point of the article, was that not until recently did bolts allow grades to be push higher just high grades avaible to more people. This is mainly do to the example of people climbing 13c/d on gear in the middle of the bolting debate I can't remeber the exact year. Feel free to go ahead and point out how this is wrong. Quote
glacier Posted April 22, 2004 Posted April 22, 2004 I thought the sport piece was well done - Samet did a pretty good job. That SoIll bouldering piece sucked goat balls, though. I've read better grocery lists. Quote
AlpineK Posted April 22, 2004 Posted April 22, 2004 You have to subscribe to read the article I'm not going to subscribe to that piece of shit mag for one article. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted April 22, 2004 Author Posted April 22, 2004 You have to subscribe to read the article I'm not going to subscribe to that piece of shit mag for one article. Hey, Mayor McCheese, the link was added simply to underscore the source, and help people poke around if they wanted to. DFA bought the mag, and assumed that if other people did so, they'd comment. You can either be a whiny cheapskate and be shut out of this grand thread, or pony up six bucks for a choice ish of the RandI. Or, shit, go down to your local big box bookseller and lurk in an uncomfortable chair while you read it for free. For an alpinista, you're not very resourceful. Shit. Quote
Off_White Posted April 22, 2004 Posted April 22, 2004 A number of branches of our five county library, The Timberland Regional Library subscribe, and I would imagine that you big city folk may also find your local institutions do as well. Quote
catbirdseat Posted April 22, 2004 Posted April 22, 2004 ... and a nomination for the AmazingCo Foundation's Excellence in Sport Climbing Journalism Prize, to be awarded this August at the Louvre in Paris. Hmmm, there are those who would argue that the words "excellence" and "Sport Climbing" don't belong in the same sentence. Quote
TimL Posted April 22, 2004 Posted April 22, 2004 ... and a nomination for the AmazingCo Foundation's Excellence in Sport Climbing Journalism Prize, to be awarded this August at the Louvre in Paris. Hmmm, there are those who would argue that the words "excellence" and "Sport Climbing" don't belong in the same sentence. And there many more that would argue that your beating a dead horse. Quote
RuMR Posted April 22, 2004 Posted April 22, 2004 ... and a nomination for the AmazingCo Foundation's Excellence in Sport Climbing Journalism Prize, to be awarded this August at the Louvre in Paris. Hmmm, there are those who would argue that the words "excellence" and "Sport Climbing" don't belong in the same sentence. Catturdeat... You should not pop off so much, it makes you look like an uninformed idiot, and we all know that's not the case ...Mr. Watts (you know, an excellent sport climber) would basically decimate anyone in the NW and the world at that time in cracks... Quote
texplorer Posted April 22, 2004 Posted April 22, 2004 TimL, RuMR, and DFA team up to form the Exuberant-use-o-capitals-in-their-avatars triad. . . defenders of sporto crankers and striped lycra wearers everywhere Quote
AlpineK Posted April 22, 2004 Posted April 22, 2004 You have to subscribe to read the article I'm not going to subscribe to that piece of shit mag for one article. Hey, Mayor McCheese, the link was added simply to underscore the source, and help people poke around if they wanted to. DFA bought the mag, and assumed that if other people did so, they'd comment. You can either be a whiny cheapskate and be shut out of this grand thread, or pony up six bucks for a choice ish of the RandI. Or, shit, go down to your local big box bookseller and lurk in an uncomfortable chair while you read it for free. For an alpinista, you're not very resourceful. Shit. Let me rephrase: While the one article might be worth reading. The economics of spending my money or wasting my valuable time are not worth the negative aspects that exude like a black aura from each copy of R&I. Quote
fern Posted April 22, 2004 Posted April 22, 2004 We were all just a bunch of anorexic homos, anyway - Jim Karn Plus ca change.... Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted April 23, 2004 Author Posted April 23, 2004 TimL, RuMR, and DFA team up to form the Exuberant-use-o-capitals-in-their-avatars triad. . . defenders of sporto crankers and striped lycra wearers everywhere Can it, you lowercase, lower-class, painter's pants-and-flannel-wearing, cowbell hex-carrying, offwidth-wrestling, hypocritically-bolt-clipping, Bachar wannabe, pseudo-old-school-trad-hardman, never-be-a-Stonemaster, suhhthurn-drawwlin', horsecock-slobbering, sixteen-rolls-of-tape-a-year, primadonnapansynancyboysissywimplosersheepshagger. Quote
chirp Posted April 23, 2004 Posted April 23, 2004 ... and a nomination for the AmazingCo Foundation's Excellence in Sport Climbing Journalism Prize, to be awarded this August at the Louvre in Paris. Hmmm, there are those who would argue that the words "excellence" and "Sport Climbing" don't belong in the same sentence. If it wasnt for sport climbing I wouldnt be as famous as I am in several exclusive yet obscure circles! Quote
texplorer Posted April 23, 2004 Posted April 23, 2004 Can it, you lowercase, lower-class, painter's pants-and-flannel-wearing, cowbell hex-carrying, offwidth-wrestling, hypocritically-bolt-clipping, Bachar wannabe, pseudo-old-school-trad-hardman, never-be-a-Stonemaster, suhhthurn-drawwlin', horsecock-slobbering, sixteen-rolls-of-tape-a-year, primadonnapansynancyboysissywimplosersheepshagger. DFA, Get with the program man. I am an NEO-lowercase, lower-class, CARHART-wearing, ANTI-hex-carrying, offwidth-wrestling, hypocritically-bolt-clipping, Bachar wannabe, pseudo-old-school-trad-hardman, never-be-a-Stonemaster, suhhthurn-drawwlin', horsecock-slobbering, NO-TAPIN, primadonnapansynancyboysissywimploserdfamothershagger. Thankfully, at both ends of the climber spectrum there is a sprayer-class so we can all have something in common. Quote
Dru Posted April 27, 2004 Posted April 27, 2004 i thought this issue of r&i was really good the so ill article was funny unlike many bouldering articles. the sporty history was good the shoe review said something about the new cava shoe being like the vector, i wanna try a pair and see. however, the "news/hot flashes/whatever" section sucked donkey dick. it was only 3 items long and one of them was comp related. Quote
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