11worth Slabs to TR

[Sabertooth]

Does anyone know of any good slab routes to TR in 11worth in the 5.10 to 5.11 range? It's hard to tell from the guide what is TRable. Thanks.

[matt_warfield]

At Peshastin, do the first pitch of Potholes and then TR Potholes direct Direct and Washboards. Also dp W. Face of Grand Central and TR the slab routes under the anchor. And you can TR some of the Austrian Slab routes I think.

 

In Icicle, forget about TR and lead the well protected Condorphamine bolted slabby route.

[kurthicks]

i think you could TR the 2nd pitch of the Bale-Kramer route on Careno Crags. it's 10a. it seems like there is a walk off, so setting up a TR would be easy, but it's been a while since i was there.

[jja]

Oprah's Navel (10c) and another slab route just to the left (10a) can be tr'd by first climbing Sam n Cams (5.7) at Sam Hill. There is also a couple of slab routes that looked hard just around the corner to the right of the bid dead tree (sorry don't know the names or grades off hand).

[jshamster]

There's a couple of very short slab TR's on Bruce's Boulder.

5.llish I think.

[chucK]

It ain't Leavenworth but at Index there's a couple of good slabs to toprope:

 

End Run and Free Cat at Hag Crag

 

Boulder start of GM at the Country

 

Newest Industry Lower Town Wall (need to climb 5.9 grunt to access top)

[Dane]

Matt had started this list....

With little or no effort to hang the rope (2x150 or better) you can do the following at Peshastin:

 

sperm whale 5.11a (although my last choice)

Potholes direct 10c

" " direct 10a

washbords 10c

primate 10d

Dr leaky 11b

(you'll need to climb P&B @ .10a for leaky)

scratch 10c

White lightening 11a

w.f. direct 10a

(climb the west face @ 5.8)

slender thread...close enough to 10a

fakin' it 10a

cajun queen 10b

 

On Givler's

Timson's @ 10d is worth the walk.

Classic has doing the dishes @ .12b

weeping wrenches @ 11b

secret dome

jy crag

 

Depends on where you learned to climb for this one..

Dan's dreadful direct on Castle .11b

 

Enough to keep ya busy for a weekend I suspect.

[matt_warfield]

Thanks Dane for filling out the list a little better. One additional note: 5.10 slabbing is plenty hard and completing the 5.10's on this list (with the usual number of Leavenworth stiff ratings) might reduce the need to find 5.11's. Besides, at that point it will be time to experience the pleasures of leading slab.

[Sabertooth]

Thanks a lot. Lots of good options. Might try Condormorphine Addiction this weekend, and TR a couple harder ones.

[Dane]

I'm no hard man but even when I thought i was this list was seemed a good day's workout on tr. I have spent a day just on one of the slabs listed trying to get all of us up just the routes on one anchor. Scratch and W/F have taken the starch out of my shorts leading them and left me on empty for the day.

 

 

Potholes direct 10c

" " direct 10a

washbords 10c

primate 10d

 

scratch 10c

w.f. direct 10a

(climb the west face @ 5.8)

 

slender thread...close enough to 10a

fakin' it 10a

cajun queen 10b

 

That has to be close to 1000 feet slab all told.

 

Funny part is sand stone has nothing to do with granite imo.

I remember how confused I was going from WA sandstone to yosemite granite even after leading Timson's. Whole other world out there

 

But I also go back a couple times a year to do the list I posted above. Fun, fun climbs on a tr and even better on lead if you drop scratch and W/F direct.

Edited April 15, 2004 by Dane

[NYC007]

yeah that 10b on Condor looks nice, might have to give it a try...see ya there Saber.........

[catbirdseat]

The route on Givler's immediately to the left of Givler's Crack looks pretty good. I once ran into the guys who put it up. Can't remember their names though.

[bwrts]

cbs- i do believe you mean the wilson/mcnertney route

 

as for 10/11 tr'able slab climbs...the breakfast wall has some winners...above barney's rubble.

pearly gates has some good and not-so good slab climbs...

wart wall has a few, as does goat dome.

all 5.10-11 climbs are accessible from going up easier routes and then rapping or walking over to the anchor as most of the routes at this grade for the 4 formations mentioned were done top down.

[viktor]

I'd have to say Goat Dome, by far, fits the criteria you're looking for. There are 9 or 10 slab climbs (5.10/11) whose anchors can be accessed by a simple scramble. Excellent rock and you'll be alone. You can even scramble to the top of the stellar first pitch of Knobs of Shame (5.10a) and TR Dick is Dead as well. I would start at the Great Outdoors belay on the right. You can TR the 3 5.10s from that anchor alone.

[thelawgoddess]

Thanks a lot. Lots of good options. Might try Condormorphine Addiction this weekend, and TR a couple harder ones.

i was going to recommend this climb as well. i wouldn't call it a "slab" per se, but there is definitely friction involved. fun times.

[bwrts]

....and those goat slab routes will only get more slippery with increased ascents! So, get 'em while they are still do'able.

[sobo]

Martin,

 

viktor has the mean beta. Go to Goat Dome, you'll love it. It's a way of life... Don't miss the "stellar first pitch" of Knobs of Shame, but do it on lead. Way fun, but watch out for the bat/bird shit in the cave!

 

FYI, the slabs on the upper tier seem soft for the grade (2nd/3rd pitch of KoS, Quarks in Question, Black Sheets of Rain, Jitterbug Boy, and Friction Addiction) and are really well protected.

[bwrts]

I will add the routes on goat are "well protected" but no where near the protection frequency seen on routes like condormorphine addiction (condor buttress).

[fatswaller]

I second the goat dome recomendation.One of the best places

in the lower Icicle to lead and top rope.

[Rad]

FYI, the friction sections on Condorphamine are not sustained so you should look elsewhere for longer slabs.