catbirdseat Posted March 11, 2004 Posted March 11, 2004 It's a PROJECT for chrissakes! Who cares how it's classified. The guy placed all that gear on lead. He probably fell off at least once for every placement. The guy has probably been working that pitch forever. For him it is a huge puzzle, working out the moves one by one. It shows a shitload of dedication and patience. Few have that kind of skill and even fewer have the patience. Quote
ken4ord Posted March 11, 2004 Posted March 11, 2004 Ok enough of the blah blah blah, I could really give a faq. Come somebody has to know who that hiphop artist? Speak now and don't forever hold your peace. Quote
RuMR Posted March 11, 2004 Posted March 11, 2004 It's a PROJECT for chrissakes! Who cares how it's classified. The guy placed all that gear on lead. He probably fell off at least once for every placement. The guy has probably been working that pitch forever. For him it is a huge puzzle, working out the moves one by one. It shows a shitload of dedication and patience. Few have that kind of skill and even fewer have the patience. very succinctly put... Quote
texplorer Posted March 11, 2004 Posted March 11, 2004 Maybe could could place gear if he did a finger or hand jam one the route instead of crimping the hell out of all those little edges. Â Oh, and Jonah, who are you to say none of us could do that climb placing our own gear. Maybe we are all badasses. Quote
willstrickland Posted March 11, 2004 Posted March 11, 2004 Potter taking huge whippers on the Tombstone and then sending made for a better video. Quote
whirlwind Posted March 11, 2004 Posted March 11, 2004 Maybe could could place gear if he did a finger or hand jam one the route instead of crimping the hell out of all those little edges. Â Oh, and Jonah, who are you to say none of us could do that climb placing our own gear. Maybe we are all badasses. Â i agree there where plenty of good spots to jam and place gear, and i think i could do that bad boy...someday he'd also get better jams without a 1/4 inch of tape on his hands but it is a project, and he'll probly send it for real some time Quote
willstrickland Posted March 11, 2004 Posted March 11, 2004 Hey, maybe that thing really goes at .11b  The frogs aren't really known for their crack climbing mastery ya know. Quote
scott_harpell Posted March 11, 2004 Posted March 11, 2004 Not to be a dick, but don't you guys think it's a little odd to be ragging on this guy's style of ascent? The way you say "well, it's not REALLY trad" makes you sound as if you're suggesting that if YOU were to do it, you would place all the gear. Newsflash: you're not gonna do it in any style, preplaced gear or otherwise! Ever!! So why try to bring down the accomplishment of someone who did?  No ya putz. the video started out TRAD and it really wasn't trad. I don't care two shits, but it aint trad. It is sport climbing. What is the difference? Dis moi. Merde.  Ummm, Scott? Crack climbing is Trad climbing, remember?  Sport climbers: A. Clip Bolts B. Climb Faces and Aretes  Trad Climbers: A. Climb cracks B. Clip Natural protection.  End of basic climbing lesson.  Nice lesson grandpa. But tell me, what is the difference between climbing sport and climbing 'trad' when all the gear is bomber and pre-placed? huh? would you call the bolted crack climbs in skaha trad? of course not. what is the difference then? Quote
Ursa_Eagle Posted March 11, 2004 Posted March 11, 2004 Perhaps we should just call this "Sporditional", as it falls under both categories, and doesn't really fall under either at the same time. Quote
cracked Posted March 11, 2004 Posted March 11, 2004 Not to be a dick, but don't you guys think it's a little odd to be ragging on this guy's style of ascent? The way you say "well, it's not REALLY trad" makes you sound as if you're suggesting that if YOU were to do it, you would place all the gear. Newsflash: you're not gonna do it in any style, preplaced gear or otherwise! Ever!! So why try to bring down the accomplishment of someone who did?  No ya putz. the video started out TRAD and it really wasn't trad. I don't care two shits, but it aint trad. It is sport climbing. What is the difference? Dis moi. Merde.  Ummm, Scott? Crack climbing is Trad climbing, remember?  Sport climbers: A. Clip Bolts B. Climb Faces and Aretes  Trad Climbers: A. Climb cracks B. Clip Natural protection.  End of basic climbing lesson.  Nice lesson grandpa. But tell me, what is the difference between climbing sport and climbing 'trad' when all the gear is bomber and pre-placed? huh? would you call the bolted crack climbs in skaha trad? of course not. what is the difference then? According to Pope and Dwayner, it's trad if it doesn't hurt the rock. This guy is falling onto nuts and cams, it doesn't hurt the rock, it's trad. Comprende, Cheif? Quote
scott_harpell Posted March 11, 2004 Posted March 11, 2004 Not to be a dick, but don't you guys think it's a little odd to be ragging on this guy's style of ascent? The way you say "well, it's not REALLY trad" makes you sound as if you're suggesting that if YOU were to do it, you would place all the gear. Newsflash: you're not gonna do it in any style, preplaced gear or otherwise! Ever!! So why try to bring down the accomplishment of someone who did?  No ya putz. the video started out TRAD and it really wasn't trad. I don't care two shits, but it aint trad. It is sport climbing. What is the difference? Dis moi. Merde.  Ummm, Scott? Crack climbing is Trad climbing, remember?  Sport climbers: A. Clip Bolts B. Climb Faces and Aretes  Trad Climbers: A. Climb cracks B. Clip Natural protection.  End of basic climbing lesson.  Nice lesson grandpa. But tell me, what is the difference between climbing sport and climbing 'trad' when all the gear is bomber and pre-placed? huh? would you call the bolted crack climbs in skaha trad? of course not. what is the difference then? According to Pope and Dwayner, it's trad if it doesn't hurt the rock. This guy is falling onto nuts and cams, it doesn't hurt the rock, it's trad. Comprende, Cheif?  I am not pope or dwayner ya festering hemmerhoid... trad is when you stick the metal in the crack, attach the rope and keep climbing. it is easier to pink-point trad than redpoint sport... fact. Quote
chucK Posted March 12, 2004 Posted March 12, 2004 That video is cool! Â That place where he falls about 20 times looks pretty hard . Â That part at the end where he throws his leg in, and he hasn't clipped yet. You can really tell he's maxed out 'cause he's not breathing (holding his breath, straining) until he throws the leg in, then he just starts panting, but he still can't work up the strength to clip. Â Cool. Â I wonder what kinda placement he's doing all that bouncing or hopping or whatever you call it to get back up to the rock? Looks like it must be a pretty good one eh? Quote
Dru Posted March 12, 2004 Posted March 12, 2004 Hey, maybe that thing really goes at .11b  The frogs aren't really known for their crack climbing mastery ya know.  um its in quebec where they do know how to climb cracks  and ya it is really supposedly a 5.14 crack climb but no one has successfully pinkpointed yet i think last i heard the rating was 13c A0 Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted March 12, 2004 Posted March 12, 2004 5.12 in the gym is not really 5.12 Â Except when it is, eh? Â And, for the record, people are advised not to argue with Jonah, or he'll take your ass to court. As head legal counsel for AmazingCo, Inc., Jonah has consistently demonstrated a pit bull tenacity, which, coupled with his can't-lose attitude and penchant for packing heat in his briefcase, has resulted in an undefeated record in various courts from city to Supreme. Quote
EWolfe Posted March 12, 2004 Posted March 12, 2004 Not to be a dick, but don't you guys think it's a little odd to be ragging on this guy's style of ascent? The way you say "well, it's not REALLY trad" makes you sound as if you're suggesting that if YOU were to do it, you would place all the gear. Newsflash: you're not gonna do it in any style, preplaced gear or otherwise! Ever!! So why try to bring down the accomplishment of someone who did?  No ya putz. the video started out TRAD and it really wasn't trad. I don't care two shits, but it aint trad. It is sport climbing. What is the difference? Dis moi. Merde.  Ummm, Scott? Crack climbing is Trad climbing, remember?  Sport climbers: A. Clip Bolts B. Climb Faces and Aretes  Trad Climbers: A. Climb cracks B. Clip Natural protection.  End of basic climbing lesson.  Nice lesson grandpa. But tell me, what is the difference between climbing sport and climbing 'trad' when all the gear is bomber and pre-placed? huh? would you call the bolted crack climbs in skaha trad? of course not. what is the difference then?  Even pre-placed gear is not fixed, bolts are. Voila! Makes it Trad, not sport. (If you weren't already convinced. )  Quote
scott_harpell Posted March 12, 2004 Posted March 12, 2004 What is the difference? Does it make it any harder? I dont think it is trad. 1) Pink Point trad is easier than red point sport. 2) Dude didn't even climb it. Whatever. Quote
scott_harpell Posted March 12, 2004 Posted March 12, 2004 it is a trad climb "project" Â So why make a video and send it to people? Hey! I almost nearly am ready to try this trad style. Lets make a movie called trad and cut it too look like i sent all but the last moves consecutively. Quote
LinHiNun Posted March 12, 2004 Posted March 12, 2004  Some very important facts:  It was set up as a sport climb. The video was called "Trad". Trad is the art of placing your own gear on lead. The climber did not do that. Climbing a bolted crack is NOT TRAD. The guy is a bad ass climber. The musical artist was: Mc Solar  Quote
Dru Posted March 12, 2004 Posted March 12, 2004 Mc Solaar. Note two A's. It is important to spell properly when filesharing. Quote
Fejas Posted March 12, 2004 Posted March 12, 2004 Hey, maybe that thing really goes at .11b  The frogs aren't really known for their crack climbing mastery ya know.  um its in quebec where they do know how to climb cracks  and ya it is really supposedly a 5.14 crack climb but no one has successfully pinkpointed yet i think last i heard the rating was 13c A0  Um yeah, but he's french Canadian then... which is almost worse... hi i'm canadian but i only speak french and have a big stick up my ass. Quote
DrTopo Posted March 12, 2004 Posted March 12, 2004 hi there. Â I made the video so let me explain the context. It was made for the Festiglace. It was the end of the 15 minute long movie. The movie started by showing some sport climbing, dry tooling, the Ice Climbing World Cup and then that vid. The point of the vid what to show some variety of climbing in Quebec. I wrote trad because it's a gear climb. Yes it is preplaced gear. Does that make it a sport climb? Maybe, personnaly, I don't care much. You can keep arguing. I doubt it will be send placing gear for the next 20 year. Â For the music, it is by Shurikane. One of the member of the band I Am. The song is called Samurai. Â P.S. As you might notice, the vid is not even officially on the website anyway. I wanted to change that version a little (including removing the trad thing). I didn't expect it would end up on various forums. Quote
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