Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted February 7, 2004 Share Posted February 7, 2004 Nasty 12a? Well maybe if you don' stick clip the first bolt and slip! Probably be better off if you did just that. DFA hasn't battled that hard on a .12a since he was a 5.11 climber back in the dizzay. And Rude Bwoi -- thanks for the correction! And what're you talking about, Time's Up being .12d? You're off your rocker, cock-knocker! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_noggin Posted February 7, 2004 Share Posted February 7, 2004 All the cracks in Tieton river canyon seem hard for the grade and some need an r or x rateing Climbing cracks in Tieton river canyon is like sport crack climbing Orange Sunshine..Tieton Godzilla..Index Seem right for the grade if you TR them ..but on lead they are a total diferent animal...WOW!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dylan_taylor Posted February 10, 2004 Share Posted February 10, 2004 Whats up with the "12-" pitch on the Calling/Northern Lights? Baffling! I want to watch some one free those moves. There's no grips! The rest of the route is solid compared to that little section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 well, if it isn't DFA, back from sabbatical? Your oft-stated aversion to BBQ puzzles me, because you clearly climb full grades harder than I ever did (I've never even been on a 5.12... except for one ill-conceived occasion when someone left their draws on Chain), but I always really liked leading that route. weird. My first lead ever was helium woman, which must have been hard for the grade at the time, because the pre-Watts pamphlets put it at 5.8. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 BBQ has an undeserved reputation for being scary and insecure. As does Gumby. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 Whaddayoomean, "undeserved"? Anyway, BBQ is thin, funky, meandering, kinda unpleasant (i.e. really unpleasant), and Dr. Flash Amazing always feels like he's gonna fall off it. It should be noted that this is not the only Smith 5.10 that gives DFA that gonna-pitch-any-second feeling. Might as well get that feeling on 5.12s, if yer gonna get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 Maybe DFA isn't as hardcore as he would like to think he is? Poseur! Go stick-clip your way up another 13 to prove you're not an alpine climber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E-rock Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 Hardest route ever: That stupid 10a rattly fingers at the lower gorge that I swear took me 45mins to get up. I could hear skyclimb, ehmmic, paco, wirly, and misterE just laughing it up while instead of jamming I slapped up the blank sides of the column. Quasar is perfect hands you whiney bitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whirlwind Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 isn't it 10b? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 I think BBQ is 10b by conventional wisdom I've done Gumby back in "the day" and I found it pretty desperate for my sausage fingers I think someone mentioned Moons of Pluto (next to Zonkers) and I always thought that was pretty straight up 10d I have said it before and I'll say it again: Hyperspace - Pressure Chamber! Carnival Crack - SendBot ver2.65 says "10a" I say "yeah right" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 Hardest route ever: That stupid 10a rattly fingers at the lower gorge that I swear took me 45mins to get up. I could hear skyclimb, ehmmic, paco, wirly, and misterE just laughing it up while instead of jamming I slapped up the blank sides of the column. Quasar is perfect hands you whiney bitch. shut up you ho! Shit is like at least 13+ oohhhh mmaaqannn I'm soooo excited to go to smith this weekend and get my ass kicked! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gripped Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 The first pitch of Thin Fingers at Index... 5.9? Classic Crack used to be listed at 5.8+. That was my first climb ever. I still have the scars on the backs of my hands. My belayer kept yelling, "Dude! Blood is aid!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jja Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 Classic Crack used to be listed at 5.8+ ... I still have the scars on the backs of my hands. Glad I'm not the only one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 11, 2004 Author Share Posted February 11, 2004 classic Crack is listed at 5.8+ again in the new edition Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 Maybe DFA isn't as hardcore as he would like to think he is? Poseur! Go stick-clip your way up another 13 to prove you're not an alpine climber. Whaddevur, fuggo. A quick survey of any number of Smith Rock hardpersons will reveal an overflowing font of BBQ hatred. Go slog your way up another pile of frozen-together 4th class choss (don't forget the forced t-shirt bivy in a lightning storm on a sloping one-cheek ledge where a marmot eats your last Gu packet and your partner has uncontrollable gas) to prove you can't actually rock climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_harpell Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 The first pitch of Thin Fingers at Index... 5.9? I think that is fair. Princely ambitions is harder I thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E-rock Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 The first pitch of thin fingers is 10a and fair. If it is 5.9 it is sandbagged. Princely is a hike in comparison. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_harpell Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 I dunno. Thin fingers approach has killer finger locks... and I have big hands. There is one 5.10 move off of the depression. Princely has a couple funky moves on it. I would put them at a hard 9 easy 10 which is really right where they are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 Maybe DFA isn't as hardcore as he would like to think he is? Poseur! Go stick-clip your way up another 13 to prove you're not an alpine climber. Whaddevur, fuggo. A quick survey of any number of Smith Rock hardpersons will reveal an overflowing font of BBQ hatred. Go slog your way up another pile of frozen-together 4th class choss (don't forget the forced t-shirt bivy in a lightning storm on a sloping one-cheek ledge where a marmot eats your last Gu packet and your partner has uncontrollable gas) to prove you can't actually rock climb. I love the words of DFA in the morning......they read like.....victory..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 Go slog your way up another pile of frozen-together 4th class choss (don't forget the forced t-shirt bivy in a lightning storm on a sloping one-cheek ledge where a marmot eats your last Gu packet and your partner has uncontrollable gas) God damn, that sounds like a blast. Where can I get some of that action! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 I agree with e-rock. techinically thin fingers approach is harder than princly. princly just has a lot of 5.8 terrian with some 5.9 so it feels harder. Orange Sunshine is easy for 5.10b. Actually i think it is easy for 10a. its mostly 5.8-5.9 fingers. Here is my hardest for each grade that shouldn't be graded the next grade up 5.7 pitch two of Canary 5.8 Tarus(Aries), if someone can lead this they are a solid 5.8 leader 5.9 Princly A 5.10a Cocane Crack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norsky Posted February 15, 2004 Share Posted February 15, 2004 Anyone mentioned Caboose, Malamute? And who in the hell has ever done Pipline and called it 10c? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whirlwind Posted February 17, 2004 Share Posted February 17, 2004 aries isn't that bad, it was my first 5.8 lead, i for get the name but the 5.8 to the rt of meatgrinder on alfebet rock was a bitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted February 17, 2004 Share Posted February 17, 2004 i beg to differ. that first short pitch on aries with the wide crack at top sucks. rattly jams at best. thankfully it's short. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrueger Posted February 18, 2004 Share Posted February 18, 2004 I forget the name, but the 5.8 to the right of meatgrinder on alphabet rock was a bitch Dogleg Crack, perhaps? If anything, it's aptly named (as is Meatgrinder)! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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