jdog Posted November 17, 2003 Posted November 17, 2003 Taking a short trip to Joshua Tree and looking for recommendations on trad and sport routes, 5.6-5.10. Also which guidebook would you recommend? Thanks in advance. Quote
lummox Posted November 17, 2003 Posted November 17, 2003 do any of the ***** routes (though take the ones with vogels name on the fa list with a grain a salt. or two ). too many to name. too many people prolly on em. august in the shade is better than you would think. Quote
specialed Posted November 17, 2003 Posted November 17, 2003 Illusion Dweller (10a), Touch and Go (10a), EB GB's (10d), Fantastic Voyage (10d). Quote
fredrogers Posted November 17, 2003 Posted November 17, 2003 Sail Away and it's neighbor- both go at 5.8-/+. Dairy Queen wall is a great place to spend a day. There was one wall in Real Hidden Valley that had a bunch of 5.9's and tens that was a lot of fun, but can't remeber what it's called. I'll look at the guidebook tonight. We used a combination of Swain and Vogel- I honetly can't remember what was best- we were glad to have both. Quote
bobinc Posted November 17, 2003 Posted November 17, 2003 Loose Lady (Houser Buttress) Heart and Sole (Echo) Lost Horse Wall (a few good ones and more than one pitch!) Hall of Horrors (Exorcist, Diamond Dogs) Quote
Sol Posted November 17, 2003 Posted November 17, 2003 Bird of Fire 10a. Dangling Woo Li Master 10a. O'Kelly's Crack 10c Mental Physics 5.7+ Right and Left Overhang Bypass 5.7, 5.9 Friendly Hands 10b Dolphin 5.7 Spiderman 10a Quote
lummox Posted November 17, 2003 Posted November 17, 2003 turd of snieder 5.10 ben 5.10 right ski track 10+ spider corner 11- another grainy face 10. jk. Quote
specialed Posted November 17, 2003 Posted November 17, 2003 frosty_the_tradman said: Bird of Fire 10a. Dangling Woo Li Master 10a. O'Kelly's Crack 10c Mental Physics 5.7+ Right and Left Overhang Bypass 5.7, 5.9 Friendly Hands 10b Dolphin 5.7 Spiderman 10a Yup. Dangling Woo Li AND all the other lines at Bighorn Humping Grotto are rad. IF you can find it Quote
Off_White Posted November 18, 2003 Posted November 18, 2003 Rubicon Run for your Life Clean and Jerk Solid Gold Breakfast of Champions Taxman Quote
layton Posted November 18, 2003 Posted November 18, 2003 was illusion dweller downgraded to 10a? Quote
EWolfe Posted November 18, 2003 Posted November 18, 2003 There's an awesome new J-Tree bouldering guide out - it's as thick as the roped guide! Quote
specialed Posted November 18, 2003 Posted November 18, 2003 michael_layton said: was illusion dweller downgraded to 10a? I thought it was the classis sandbag 10a. Though I didn't think it was too devious, just rather sustained. Quote
ncascademtns Posted November 18, 2003 Posted November 18, 2003 Pinch Rib route across the parking lot at Intersection Rock. Great one to finish the day with. I think it was rated 5.7 until that needed hand hold fell out. Now I believe it is a 5.10a. Quote
Off_White Posted November 19, 2003 Posted November 19, 2003 I think Pinched Rib was underrated for quite awhile, it was the best bet for watching a public sketchfest. Quote
Crackbolter Posted November 19, 2003 Posted November 19, 2003 (edited) Figures on a Landscape Comic Book 2nd Overhang Bypass 2nd Touch and Go 2nd Bird on a Wire 2nd Ski tracks crack Edited November 19, 2003 by Crackbolter Quote
Bug Posted November 19, 2003 Posted November 19, 2003 Bird on a Wire. Easy 10a. SideWinder 9 Solid Gold 10a Quote
Off_White Posted November 19, 2003 Posted November 19, 2003 Oh, and what's that route that traverses above the roofs on the Freak Brother's formation out in the Wonderland? 5.9 I think? Maybe old style Joshua Tree 5.9? I've never done it, but wanted to. Walk on the Wild Side is a fun multi-pitch 5.8 face climb out on Saddle Rocks. More Monkey Than Funky can be a swinging good time. I always liked Moosedog Tower in Indian Cove, 5.8ish crack with roof, but maybe that's just because I like the punnish reference. Had a fun event with a couple rangers there too, but thats more of a campfire story... Quote
goatboy Posted November 19, 2003 Posted November 19, 2003 Great to see what a flurry of activity this southern california topic generates among NW-erners when the rain and snow start to fly . . . My suggestions and a few responses: 1) Beware the walk-off's (or treat them with respect) -- at times, they're as hard or scary as the climbs themselves. . . 2) Best bang for the buck -- Hidden Valley Campground or Hall of Horrors cragging 3) Illusion Dweller is a 5.10b, very sustained and long and cruxy at the very, very end . . . need a 60 M rope (or maybe two 50's?) to get off . . . 4) Lost Horse wall has great multi-pitch routes, including the Bird on a Wire climb mentioned above -- be prepared to climb slick, hard moves off the belay on the last pitch before getting any gear in . . . 5) Touch and Go is only one pitch, I believe . . . it's a glorious 5.9+ thin crack/dihedral 6) Bighorn Mating Grotto is cool but hard to find . . . 7) THE EXORCIST (5.10a) is very hard and sustained for the rating, but can be climbed and protected well as a series of boulder problems between good rests . . . 8) Pope's crack is pretty flaring and gritty, I thought . . . 9) Heart and Sole (on Echo Rock) is a wild, beautiful thin face leading up to a positive, locking lieback crack . . . 10) Hobbit Roof is short but so good! 11) Sidewinder is dangerous and hard now that some bolts are missing from the upper traverse -- I don't recommend it to people that I like -- 12) Bird of Fire (in the Isles in the Sky area) is a very cool, challenging 5.10 with an overhanging jamming finish . . . 13) Tax man -- sustained 10a crack 14) The routes on Intersxn rock (overhang bypass, etc) are super good, though crowded . . . 15) Beware Double Cross, hard for the rating and hard to protect first 15-20 feet . . . 16) Geology Tour Road has very cool, uncrowded climbs including the ultra-classic Perpetual Motion Crack (5.10d) -- very wild, overhanging, locking hand jam 75 foot long pumpfest! So good! 17) joshua Tree saloon has free taco night and cheap drinks on Wednesdays (or is it Tuesdays?) -- very worth the drive and effort!!!!! Have a great trip and post a trip report and some pictures! Quote
EWolfe Posted November 19, 2003 Posted November 19, 2003 MisterE said: Pope's Crack in Wonderland is awesome This was just a stupid post. Pope's is on Echo Rock. It is gritty, and I truly don't know what the hell I was thinking. Apologies. Quote
specialed Posted November 19, 2003 Posted November 19, 2003 Bug said: Bird on a Wire. Easy 10a. SideWinder 9 Solid Gold 10a Sidewinder's a rather committing 10b as I remember. OLD school 5.9. Quote
Bug Posted November 21, 2003 Posted November 21, 2003 If the upper bolts are gone on Sidewinder, I retract my recommendation. It has a long potential pendulum off the end of the dike traverse. It wouldn't be all that bad except it would rake your rope across a sharp edge. Quote
lummox Posted November 21, 2003 Posted November 21, 2003 specialed said: Bug said: Bird on a Wire. Easy 10a. SideWinder 9 Solid Gold 10a Sidewinder's a rather committing 10b as I remember. OLD school 5.9. its a 9. Quote
dr._jay Posted November 22, 2003 Posted November 22, 2003 be sure to put hemingway buttress on the list. right off the road, sunny and warm in winter, and classic lines overseer, white lightning, and poodles are people too. Quote
lummox Posted November 22, 2003 Posted November 22, 2003 dr._jay said: hemingway buttress great are. so is lost horse. real hidden valley. hall of horrors. comic book. wonderland. and many many more. (btw. if its fukin cold the owl cove are cn still be climbable). Quote
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