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Joshua Tree Selected Routes


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Sail Away and it's neighbor- both go at 5.8-/+.


Dairy Queen wall is a great place to spend a day.


There was one wall in Real Hidden Valley that had a bunch of 5.9's and tens that was a lot of fun, but can't remeber what it's called. I'll look at the guidebook tonight.


We used a combination of Swain and Vogel- I honetly can't remember what was best- we were glad to have both.



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frosty_the_tradman said:

Bird of Fire 10a.

Dangling Woo Li Master 10a.

O'Kelly's Crack 10c

Mental Physics 5.7+

Right and Left Overhang Bypass 5.7, 5.9

Friendly Hands 10b

Dolphin 5.7

Spiderman 10a


Yup. Dangling Woo Li AND all the other lines at Bighorn Humping Grotto are rad. IF you can find it yellaf.gif

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Oh, and what's that route that traverses above the roofs on the Freak Brother's formation out in the Wonderland? 5.9 I think? Maybe old style Joshua

Tree 5.9? I've never done it, but wanted to.


Walk on the Wild Side is a fun multi-pitch 5.8 face climb out on Saddle Rocks.


More Monkey Than Funky can be a swinging good time.


I always liked Moosedog Tower in Indian Cove, 5.8ish crack with roof, but maybe that's just because I like the punnish reference. Had a fun event with a couple rangers there too, but thats more of a campfire story...

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Great to see what a flurry of activity this southern california topic generates among NW-erners when the rain and snow start to fly . . .


My suggestions and a few responses:


1) Beware the walk-off's (or treat them with respect) -- at times, they're as hard or scary as the climbs themselves. . .


2) Best bang for the buck -- Hidden Valley Campground or Hall of Horrors cragging


3) Illusion Dweller is a 5.10b, very sustained and long and cruxy at the very, very end . . . need a 60 M rope (or maybe two 50's?) to get off . . .


4) Lost Horse wall has great multi-pitch routes, including the Bird on a Wire climb mentioned above -- be prepared to climb slick, hard moves off the belay on the last pitch before getting any gear in . . .


5) Touch and Go is only one pitch, I believe . . . it's a glorious 5.9+ thin crack/dihedral


6) Bighorn Mating Grotto is cool but hard to find . . .


7) THE EXORCIST (5.10a) is very hard and sustained for the rating, but can be climbed and protected well as a series of boulder problems between good rests . . .


8) Pope's crack is pretty flaring and gritty, I thought . . .


9) Heart and Sole (on Echo Rock) is a wild, beautiful thin face leading up to a positive, locking lieback crack . . .


10) Hobbit Roof is short but so good!


11) Sidewinder is dangerous and hard now that some bolts are missing from the upper traverse -- I don't recommend it to people that I like --


12) Bird of Fire (in the Isles in the Sky area) is a very cool, challenging 5.10 with an overhanging jamming finish . . .


13) Tax man -- sustained 10a crack


14) The routes on Intersxn rock (overhang bypass, etc) are super good, though crowded . . .


15) Beware Double Cross, hard for the rating and hard to protect first 15-20 feet . . .


16) Geology Tour Road has very cool, uncrowded climbs including the ultra-classic Perpetual Motion Crack (5.10d) -- very wild, overhanging, locking hand jam 75 foot long pumpfest! So good!



17) joshua Tree saloon has free taco night and cheap drinks on Wednesdays (or is it Tuesdays?) -- very worth the drive and effort!!!!! the_finger.gif

Have a great trip and post a trip report and some pictures!

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