Red Rocks Faves

[fredrogers]

Okay- with the help of my fellow CCspraymongers and the Joshua Tree favs thread, I've got that part of my roadtrip planned out.

So now let's hear some Red Rocks faves, preferably 5.10 and below, sport or trad.

[Dru]

Personal recommendations (only stuff I have done)

The FoxBlack OrpheusTunnel VisionFroglandOlive OilYinYang (given 11a but easier)Cat in the HatBrass Wall trad routes (cragging)Lotta Balls

Routes I want to do, supposed to be real good.

Crimson ChrysalisGinger CracksSour MashWild TurkeysSunflowerDark shadowsLady Wilsons CleavageResolution arete (goes at 5.10 with one short aid section)Epinephrie

Not at Red Rocks but worth visiting:

Keyhole Canyon (granite area SE of Vegas, free camping, wicked 6 pitch climb up a dry watercourse, pitches from V0 bouldering steps to 30m 10b and 100+ boulder problems)

I have never done a really good sport climb at Vegas. Most of the stuff at 10 and under is pretty damn generic and doesnt stick in ones mind. The Limestone at Waterworld and Trenchtown is supposedly good.

[max]

My thoughts on good rr routes:

1. Skip Crimson. Not only is it crowded... it just was a boring climb! (no stars)

2. There's some route left of wild turkey... a clssic 5.9 This is a good route. Rap after the crux "offwidth" pitch. **

3. Lotta Balls. ***

4. A hike up icebox canyon is a good afternoon foray.

5. Fox. "It a ten" (according to wolfgang. More like 11-)

6. The wall with necromancer has three or four great routes all 5.7-5.9. If you do the second pitch of the leftmost climb, be prepped for a scary rap.

[Chongo]

fox is only about 10c or so. key is to layback lots of it. every 20 feet or so is a pod you can get a good foot jam in and rest your arms. problem is carrying those #5 camalots for the top section. still a great climb, most indian creek like thing at RR. just pure crack climbing.

[Dru]

Yeah sure chongo. you ever hear of Ixtlan?

[Winter]

must be serendipity ... i'm leaving for 4 days of climbing in RR this afternoon.

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by Winter:

must be serendipity ... i'm leaving for 4 days of climbing in RR this afternoon.

---

If you find any #4 Camalots they are mine and I will give you a beer for their safe return

[allison]

One of my favorite slab climbs is at RR. It's called 'Friction Face, Panty Waist.' Goes at .7 or.8 but feels harder. REally good fun.

It's a little out of the way, by the Magic Bus if I recall. I would recommend long sleeves and pants on this route if you're on the pointy end.

[northfork]

Epinephrie

Dark Shadows

[Jason_Martin]

If you're on your way down here soon, expect severe winds. Shady routes are cold right now.

Following are a couple of sunny routes that haven't been mentioned:

Great Red Book: Gets afternoon sun. A nice two pitch 5.8.

Jubiliant Song: Long approach, but well worth it. No crowds.

Johnny Vegas: A nice 5.7 with 5.9 variations. Fun in the sun.

Bullah's Book: 5.9- A classic.

Rainbow Buttress: One of the best climbs around. Expect a long day.

Have a blast!

Jason

[ 03-15-2002: Message edited by: Jason Martin ]

[willstrickland]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Dru:

Routes I want to do, supposed to be real good.Crimson ChrysalisGinger CracksWild TurkeysResolution arete (goes at 5.10 with one short aid section)Epinephrine.

---

Dru hits it pretty much on the head. Personally, I wouldn't recommend Black Orpheus to anyone, I thought it was two pitches of fun and eight pitches of shit with a pain in the ass approach/ descent (though they're not very long by RR stds)

"Wild Turkeys" full name is "Dream of Wild Turkeys" out at Black Velvet, and you can do Prince of Darkness in the same area - 6 pitch sport with pitches of .10a, .10b, and .10c with the other 3 going at .9 I think.

Read my TR if you want a little beta on Resolution, rad climb, but you gotta move fast (or follow with a big pack with bivy gear), and if you do it .10 A0 take some extra #3 TCU through #2 Camalot. The aid is only on pitch 7, where you climb a 6ft roof via thin hands/fingers at 11+, on aid straightforward A1 camming. Also, take 2 #4s or at least a 3.5 and 4, you'll want them.

Epinephrine goes pretty fast for the length, and it's right there at Black velvet too. This is a climb with alot of chimney pitches down low and one of the few routes with lots of chimney that you might actually enjoy.

[Dru]

Black Otrpheus starts with 2 pitches or so of 5.7/5.8 on good rock. Then you do a long leftwards traverse across ome 4th class rock for a few pitches. Then 3 stellar pitches of corners, 5.9 sustained, 5.9(boulder move), 5.8, then 2 more Ok pitches. what i really liked about this climb was doing it super fast and with a keen partner. we simulclimbed the start, belayed the 5.9 sections then simuled the rest, passed 2 parties took about 5 hours in total and only an hour to do the descent (do the Alternate descent via the Selectrix boulder not Solar Slab descent -ssd took me 3 hrs with same partner the previous yr afte it only took us 2 hrs to do sola slab)). i gues if i had done it slower with a weaker partner i would not have liked it so much but i still thought it was a great route with good exposure and position, and sunny too (we did it in December), andnice variety, some flakes, some corners, some splitters, some slab, and route finding skill required for the big traverse.

Rainbow Buttress is reported as quite good too by a partner who had to do an unplanned bivi in a snowstorm while descending.

I like the canyon routes with long approaches cause i really like that canyon hiking scene too, and the further back you go the fewer people you seem to see, at least in the winter.

[Matt_Anderson]

Fiddler on the Roof is in black velvet canyon and is great. The potential to fall and have to prusik back to your last piece is there, though, so the other routes on that wall may be a bit less cheeky. They're all supposed to be great, I'm just the praising the only one I've been able to get on . . .

[chucK]

Dru's list looks good.

I would add Black Dagger to the list. It's only 5.7 but it's sustained . All the pitches are pretty cool. Long but nice hike in. Easy descent too.

Key to Red Rocks this time of year is crowds. Try to plan on alternate nearby routes in case you find your 1st choice is bunged up. For example, Ginger Cracks is near Crimson Chrysalis, Sunflower is an option if Solar Slab is packed.

We did Frigid Air Buttress last time I was there. It was a pretty good climb. It might be a good thing to try if you're getting bummed by the crowds.

Other climbs I know of (I've done):Crimson Chrysalis - great, but way crowdedFrogland - good, but way crowdedDark Shadows - great, crowded but a nice spot to waitCatwalk - don't bother, not crowded Group Therapy - good, alternate to Tunnel Vision

Ones I really wanna do:EpiTriassic SandsTurkeys

[billcoe]

Thread hijack/revival in progress:

 

John, I watched a story on TV last night about a fella that helps another dude off Everest after some other climbers had walked away and ignored the fella.

 

I was thinking of you all the way, hoped you made it up the big one later.

 

I'd tie in with you and Bill anytime, look me up if you get down this way and want a good belay doing some moderate wanking.

[texplorer]

A good website to check out for Red Rocks

 

Mountain Project

 

This is a great site for checking out pics and extra info on the area as even the most recent guidebooks have quite a few mistakes. I even have a few pics of RR posted there. If your coming to Vegas and are interested in FA's let me know. Just be warned that the weather will be in the triple digits for the next few months.

[Otto]

Refried Brains on Black Velvet Wall is a great crack climb to do when the rest are too crowded. Includes some delicate face stuff past bolts, this route has it (almost) all.

 

Gin Ricky, near Lotta Balls, is a fine crack in a dihedral, one pitch, all trad.

[powderhound]

Couple of good, one one/two pitchers,

 

black hole 1st pitch only 5.9

 

straight shooter 5.9+

Whipper 10b (sweet 10 horizantal roof)

Out of Control 10d nice and long

everything on stratocaster wall

if you can get there earlier, cat in the hat

 

I did dream of wild turkeys and I didn't really like it, I thought that is was kinda contrived.

 

Ephinrine is exceptional, one of the best routes i have ever done.

[goatboy]

BIRDLAND. Cool newer route near brass wall.