Zimm Posted September 17, 2003 Share Posted September 17, 2003 I'm pulling together a new rack of cams and I was looking for any advice on what type to get. Right now I'm looking at Camalots for .5 and above and using TCUs for everything below that. Just wanted to get some other climbers opinions. Thanks alot. -Zimm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sphinx Posted September 17, 2003 Share Posted September 17, 2003 Get a drill. Bolt everything. Then install fixed draws. Then we don't need to carry gear. Dwayner would approve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted September 17, 2003 Share Posted September 17, 2003 Just an observation: I repair cam trigger wires in Squamish, and I have to say that the vast majority of the work I get is BD cams. I have only done one Metolius cam this whole summer. I believe the exposed design of the BD cams makes them more prone to damage. That said, my rack is pretty much what you are thinking of getting, with the addition of some CCH Aliens to double up the TCUs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted September 17, 2003 Share Posted September 17, 2003 ahhh...sphinx...you're killing me...throwin' gas on flames... Zimm...i'd recommend checking some other people's racks out and using some of the stuff before buying it...even CHEAP cams really aren't that cheap and you might as well really really dig what you're forking the money over for... Personally, I like BD cams...I have several solid stem old school friends that rock also...but lately, i've been finding the bd's on my harness and the friends on the ground... For small stuff, i like the metolius tcu's and fcu's...they "push" around in cracks...several people just scream about aliens...but its a personal choice... Use some of the stuff first... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sphinx Posted September 17, 2003 Share Posted September 17, 2003 I love camalots, but I really, really, really, really hate the Metolius large cams. Their smaller cams are decent, but DON'T BUY METOLIUS LARGER THAN BLACK! They blow! Friends are also good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted September 17, 2003 Share Posted September 17, 2003 Yeah...i can second that...go w/ Wild Country or BD for .5 or bigger... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attitude Posted September 17, 2003 Share Posted September 17, 2003 Wild Country Zeros 4-6 DMM 3/4 - 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted September 17, 2003 Share Posted September 17, 2003 Zimm said: I'm pulling together a new rack of cams and I was looking for any advice on what type to get. Right now I'm looking at Camalots for .5 and above and using TCUs for everything below that. Just wanted to get some other climbers opinions. Thanks alot. -Zimm that sounds good though i cant remember what the fuck the camalot size numbers are (they dont relate to any measuring standard known to man). i like camalots in purple green red yellow and the blue. i double up on green red and yellow on sustained climbs. tcus of .25 .5 .75 and 1 inch are good. i recnelty got the rock empire cams and the .25 through 1 are the most useful ones imo and a better valued option than other tcus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schnitzem Posted September 17, 2003 Share Posted September 17, 2003 Really depends on what type of routes you are doing. If you are going for fast and light don't touch the Black Diamond Cams - bulky - heavy . Metolius cams are lighter and can take more abuse, although there range is a bit less and there larger cams have crappy actions. If you are aiding a bunch get CCH Aliens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sphinx Posted September 17, 2003 Share Posted September 17, 2003 If you're going fast and light I'd suggest taking BD through #2 or 3, then mixing with lighter cams. The BDs are too bomber, versatile, and confidence-inspiring for me to leave behind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted September 17, 2003 Share Posted September 17, 2003 seems like i always take a BD #2 and use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted September 17, 2003 Share Posted September 17, 2003 buy what fits your budget. low end quality cams are the forged friends then tech friends and then camalots i like to mix and match now a days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodchester Posted September 17, 2003 Share Posted September 17, 2003 Recent CC.com thread on cams and biners Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tod Posted September 17, 2003 Share Posted September 17, 2003 snoboy said: Just an observation: I repair cam trigger wires in Squamish, and I have to say that the vast majority of the work I get is BD cams. I have only done one Metolius cam this whole summer. I believe the exposed design of the BD cams makes them more prone to damage. That said, my rack is pretty much what you are thinking of getting, with the addition of some CCH Aliens to double up the TCUs. That sounds about right since the last figure I saw, BD has about 95% of the cam market. If less than 95% of your repairs are BD Camalots then that would suggest that Camalots have better than average durability.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted September 17, 2003 Share Posted September 17, 2003 schnitzem said: Black Diamond Cams - bulky - heavy camalots are not that much heavier than single axle cams. example: the 2.5 forged friend is about 1 ounce lighter than the red camalot. 1 ounce. a whole rack of double units might be 1/2 lb lighter with friends than with camalots. youd lose 5 times that with a fear induced shit at the base of a hard climb. other critques mean more like metolius cams let you clip 4 inches higher which can mean a lot when aiding. i dont like that camalot triggers can get twisted around the stem. there arent huge differences in usefulness. just style points on arbitrary scales. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 17, 2003 Share Posted September 17, 2003 Tod said: That sounds about right since the last figure I saw, BD has about 95% of the cam market. not in canada... by a long shot.... euro cams are so much cheaper than bd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sphinx Posted September 17, 2003 Share Posted September 17, 2003 I've never had a problem with triggers twisting on BD cams. For aiding, I can see why metolius might be somewhat better. Thing I really don't like about metolius is that 1. the springs are really stiff, but they still walk like mad, 2. The stems are short, so setting a deep placement is miserable, and the trigger is so close to the end of the stem that when removing, I have to make a fist to retract the trigger, and then I can't get my hand out of the crack. And the big expansion range of the Camalots is SOOOOO noticeable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted September 17, 2003 Share Posted September 17, 2003 Dru said: Tod said: That sounds about right since the last figure I saw, BD has about 95% of the cam market. not in canada... by a long shot.... euro cams are so much cheaper than bd. yea but its visitors to your fair country who are doing most a the hard climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redoubt Posted September 17, 2003 Share Posted September 17, 2003 Tod said: That sounds about right since the last figure I saw, BD has about 95% of the cam market. Tod, where did you see that number? I can't imagine that Wild Country, Metolius and all the rest are sharing only 5% of the total cam market. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted September 17, 2003 Share Posted September 17, 2003 Redoubt said: Tod said: That sounds about right since the last figure I saw, BD has about 95% of the cam market. Tod, where did you see that number? I can't imagine that Wild Country, Metolius and all the rest are sharing only 5% of the total cam market. to paraphrase yogi: half of what people write on this website is 90% wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dryad Posted September 17, 2003 Share Posted September 17, 2003 Go climb with a bunch of different people and try out different ones and see what you like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al_Pine Posted September 17, 2003 Share Posted September 17, 2003 lummox said: camalots are not that much heavier than single axle cams. example: the 2.5 forged friend is about 1 ounce lighter than the red camalot. 1 ounce. a whole rack of double units might be 1/2 lb lighter with friends than with camalots. Only a 1/2 lb? You better do the math. That means that a whole rack of double units is only 8 cams. I don't thik so . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted September 17, 2003 Share Posted September 17, 2003 Al_Pine said: lummox said: camalots are not that much heavier than single axle cams. example: the 2.5 forged friend is about 1 ounce lighter than the red camalot. 1 ounce. a whole rack of double units might be 1/2 lb lighter with friends than with camalots. Only a 1/2 lb? You better do the math. That means that a whole rack of double units is only 8 cams. I don't thik so . youre assuming the difference in mass between the cams remains constant over differing sizes. you are so thik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al_Pine Posted September 17, 2003 Share Posted September 17, 2003 No. I only assumed the average difference is constant. Do the math. Youll find that you save weight with the friends, cover the same crack widths and have more cams. Which is good for longer leads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted September 17, 2003 Share Posted September 17, 2003 Al_Pine said: No. I only assumed the average difference is constant. Do the math. Youll find that you save weight with the friends, cover the same crack widths and have more cams. Which is good for longer leads. sew it up. 'have more cams' it aint my first barbeque. i got lots of old friends. and i dont carry em hardly ever anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.