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Redoubt's Achievements


Gumby (1/14)



  1. YOU think about it. The OP is just asking if he should cut his damn rope. Sheesh!
  2. I wouldn't say that rapping on a 58 and a 60 is unsafe if handled properly, but Dru's point should suggest it is a hassle on routes with multiple raps when one would like to thread the rope you are pulling through the anchor as you pull. If you are using a tag line or some other method that doesn't allow this, so be it. But if I'm rapping on doubles or twins, I want to be able to alternate which rope gets pulled without thinking about one rope being longer than the other. Of course this can be dealt with, and YMMV, but in my climbing world I just don't see any big win by hanging on to that extra 2m of rope on the longer rope. I would have evened up those ropes as soon as I could.
  3. Actually his choice is between rapping 59 or 58, so the difference is 3 feet, not 6, which makes it even more sensible to me to even up the ropes.
  4. 7 hours up and 5 hours down done at a slow and steady pace with a rookie partner. I think Helen Lake was about three hours in. And I agree with what JohnGo said. I've also done Whitney in a day and I'd say Shasta will be a bit easier as long as you have decent snow conditions.
  5. In your case, Dru, that's because there's no one else there!
  6. Yes, I'd be interested in studies that show that building a base of muscle and strength will enhance endurance. Do you have some sources? Thanks!
  7. "As we unloaded packs at the parking lot, two young ladies approached us to ask if we were THE Yosemite climbers... They asked if it were true that Yosemite climbers chafe their hands on the granite to enable them to friction up vertical walls. We assured them that the preposterous myth was true." Chuck Pratt, 1965.
  8. I don't have any personal recommendations, but Twight probably wouldn't do that now, and seems to recommend including both a limited amount of protein and quite a bit of fat. These 2 links to his Gym Jones site give some idea about what he's thinking these days. http://www.gymjones.com/knowledge.php?id=11 http://www.gymjones.com/knowledge.php?id=17
  9. Not a silly question at all. Typically you would not need either snowshoes or skins to climb the South Side, Reid or Leutholds routes from Timberline in winter and early spring. Up to the top of the Palmer lift you can hike up groomed slopes or cat track. Above that conditions are usually firm on all of the routes you mentioned. As you seem to be well aware, recent snowfall and temps can make flotation a good idea, but I would definitely say that flotation is not the norm. You'll see lots of folks on skis not because they need them to ascend, but because it's really nice to ski down instead of slog down.
  10. Nice photos! That's a fun route. I'm impressed with the precision of your timekeeping!
  11. I don't doubt you, because I'm sure I've read a Nelson description of the climb in one of the books, but my Vol 2 says First Edition, 2000, and the only Eldorado routes listed are NE Face and NW Face Couloir. Wonder what's the deal there.....
  12. Pretty much my impression when I climbed it, except I really would not recommend it. Cool approach and setting, but the route just fell so far short of my expectations. I thought I remembered Nelson saying something about this route looking better than it actually is, but when I looked in Selected Climbs I couldn't find it. I think I gave away my 1st edition when the 2nd edition came out. Can someone verify that he dropped this route from the second edition of Volume I?
  13. Yeah, your whole plan is fine. The weather looks clear and warm and you'll be fine in a bivy sac. If you're up there early Saturday you can nab a walled bivy site or find some recent snow walls. This is the solstice, and there will be loads of people camped at Helen Lake and you will have no problem being near others on the climb (probably can't avoid it). You may even meet some folks at Helen that you want to climb with the next day. Have a good time!
  14. What does this say about us? Well, one hint may be that the numbers are almost exactly the opposite over on cascaderowers.com.
  15. With no annual fee and not paying any interest it is free gear for me. Somebody pays for it, but not me. Hardly free. Wait a few months and you can have that in cash and do with it whatever you want - save it, spend it as you please. You can redeem it now for gear, but you are essentially using a coupon that would be good for cash in a few months. The REI cash-back deal is just a rebate that you can't cash in right away. They make you wait just long enough that you will dump it right back onto them. I have the REI card and ALWAYS wait for the cash. Citibank sounds like a better deal, though, so I may switch.
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