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Everything posted by Tod

  1. Perfect setup for someone who wants a top end powder ski that skis well out of the pow. The skis are nearly brand new; only skied on 2-3 times and in near perfect/new shape. Black Diamond: 2014 Carbon Megawatt 178 (Sugg Retail $1000) Dynafit: STS Radical Binding (Sugg Retail $500) Black Diamond: GlideLite Mix STS Climbing Skins (includes bag) (Sugg Retail $185) Black Diamond: Ascension STS Climbing Skins (includes bag) (Sugg Retail $170) Condition: Near perfect/new shape (only skied on 2-3 times). I can send pics of the bases, near new condition (only one slight mark on the base, see pic below, hard to see). Bindings: They are mounted for a 300mm boot. Bindings are adjustable, but I'm not sure how far. Total Suggested Retail: $1855 Selling for $900 obo Will ship from Tacoma, WA at actual cost for shipping/packaging. Message me for fastest response or with any questions
  2. Strobach?

    Anyone been up there recently? Any reports?
  3. Maps

    caltopo.com: Route planning and map (PDF) printing. No reason to buy software as it's all outdated compared to caltopo.com GAIA App: for your phone while in the field. You can import GPX tracks/waypoints from caltopo (or any other source), or do your own route planning in the app. You can download maps, Satelite, etc for offline use. Phones in the field: If you put it in airplane mode, they will last for days and are quite durable and water resistant/proof on their own. I have used iPhones and Samsung Galaxy S4's and S5's for years in the backcountry, rain, snow (never put a waterproof case on them). Typically I can get 4-5 days out of a battery with airplane mode on, semi-regular GPS use, and some solitaire during the evening. If you can't get a phone to last more than a couple of days you probably don't have it in airplane mode, have a dead phone/battery, or play to many games.
  4. Snowking access

    The Kindy Creek Road (FR-1570) and bridge across the Cascade river were in as of two months ago. The road is blocked by boulders at the intersection of the Sonny Boy Rd. From there it is a hike up to the end of the road, crossing a few washouts. As of mid April, snow started around 3400', so traveling up to the 4000' bench and beyond should be easy. A descent description of the approach to the climbers trail: http://www.willhiteweb.com/washington_climbing/cascade_river/snowking_mountain_047.htm
  5. Crevasse Falls

    You nailed it. If we were comparing this to climbing a rock wall then dynamic forces are very important. Being that we are talking about low angle glaciers it's a much different animal. Either way, the main point was, use knots if you are a two man team, or have more people on the rope to stop a fall. Longer or shorter distances are not going to stop the falls that were demo'd in that video.
  6. Crevasse Falls

    In the video, if the climbers had knots in their ropes, or a third person on the team the falls would have had a I rate of success (not more distance). Knots: -2-Man Team: Knots will most likely stop the fall, not the climber. Butterfly knots can be incredibly effective and make a two man team realistic in crevassed terrain. -3-Man Team: Multiple team members to stop the fall adds to the success rate of catching a fall. Distance between climbers: -More distance: adds more potential slack which adds more potential force on the climber arresting the fall. (you have 100' between you and someone falls, the person falling will have picked up a lot of speed/force prior to the rope going tight) -Less distance: adds better reaction ability prior to too much force being added to rope/climber arresting fall. (you have <50' then the rope will go tight sooner and less force will hit the person catching the fall) -Correct Distance?: I see a lot of teams that assume to use the whole rope, which makes for far too much length between climbers. Being closer to the other climbers make for quicker actions under less force and better rope management. Obviously though you need enough length to get around crevasses and stop a fall before you get pulled in. AAI has a great page showing info on rope lengths between climbers (http://blog.alpineinstitute.com/2010/11/rope-length-on-glacier.html)
  7. Bolting Moratorium in NCNP

    Please make sure the public's voice is heard on this. Contact Ms. Bush and the NCNP and let them know your opinion on this (even if you don't agree on bolting in any form). The policy of no bolting and allowing nests of slings is unacceptably dangerous and environmentally unfriendly. Bolted descent routes on popular North Cascade climbs is safer, and cause less visual and physical impact upon the wilderness area. This isn't the first or last time that the NCNP's policy of removing anchors (bolts and slings) has been linked to climber injury and/or death. The NCNP is not only NOT listening to the public seriously; they won't listen constructively with persons or the AAC, Access Fund, etc.. They are NOT keeping up responsible climbing management plans with public input. And now they are NOT even listening to their own directors. NPS Director's Orders #41 clearly states the acceptance of using bolts and creating management plans with public input. If you haven't seen it yet, this is now being written up by Rock and Ice in an editorial: TNB: DEATH ON FORBIDDEN PEAK: WAS THE NPS COMPLICIT? http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/tnb-death-on-forbidden-peak-was-the-nps-complicit
  8. These have been sold.... FOR SALE: Black Diamond Express Ice Screws Practically brand new! $30 each (Reg: $60) Near perfect condition Only 2-3 need very minor sharpening Well taken care of and used for only a few seasons PLUS: I'll throw in four Ice Clippers that I used once... (2) 10cm - Red (2) 13cm - Yellow (6) 16cm - Blue (7) 19cm - Gray (1) 22cm - Green Yeah that's right, save $540 for some screws that look and work like they are brand new... For those that are interested, but don't want (18) screws, I would be willing to split the set in half. If interested, email me at tod"at"edgeworksclimbing.com Tod
  9. There is some good info regarding rapping with a 60M using Heaven's Gate to Golden Road anchors. It works fine, I've done it multiple times. See the comments (below the beta section) for Lovin' Arms on mountainproject.com. http://www.mountainproject.com/v/lovin-arms/106194690
  10. Here's some info detailing why BD chose the sling design. In short it was the optimum way to not comprise safety or weight: http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/knowledge/qc-labreslinging-camalots-and-c3s
  11. The bear sign thread

    Brown bear is one thing; not something you want to be around... In all seriousness, unless the black bear has been trained by the Yosemite NPS to taste test every campsite kitchen it finds (which gives them a badge of honor tagged to their ear), then.... ...black bears want nothing to do with you. They are predominately ominivoristic (vegetarians) and tend to be extremely skittish around humans; they usually stick to themselves or more likely they run as fast as they can away from you. Unless you startled the bear and had it cornered you'd be lucky to even get a bear near you let alone attack you. I've had many MANY run-ins with black bears; I've been between a bear and its cubs (yes that was a nervous moment), I've had a bear stare me down at 3am wondering why I was sleeping on its trail (mental note, never sleep on a trail, you'll get stepped on by more than just people), I've seen 5 bear in one day and absolutely amazed at how fast and powerful they can tear through a forest like a bulldozer trying to run away from you.... Unless you're in grizzly country, leave the guns and mace at home, they just add weight and make other people nervous....
  12. Snow Creek Wall Wind Event

    Thank you to those that did some pruning. It made the log walking much easier. Impressive amount of linking log ramps together just to get down to the creek. The water in the creek is very high right now so getting across the last 5-10 feet of the creek is a bit interesting; you walk the tree until it is only about 4-6" around and then jump to a broken rotting log that is angled into the creek. Once the water drops a little it won't be as interesting.
  13. Skaha: What gives?

    Yes the map is accurate. Great beta. Is the map below accurate? (from the the Penticton Chamber of Commerce site)
  14. Skaha: What gives?

    For the last 5+ years I have tried to go up there once or twice a year; rarely do I find it crowded unless you go on a Canadian holiday (or a holiday shared by Canada and the US). It is a super friendly place; dogs are welcome, climbers from all over travel to climb there and are typically very friendly, the ratio of women to men are astounding (one trip I counted 4+ women to every guy, which was welcomed by both genders in our group). =) The routes have MUCH MORE variety than Smith. You can find climbs of all abilities (yes beginner and expert alike) that are FUN and if you are looking for some routes that are long and/or sporty/overhung it's hard to beat. The place has been well developed in the last few years; the access is great, VERY GOOD parking (new access and parking lot in the last 3 years with the help of MEC, local climbers and city), trails are fairly well marked and lead to many different canyons and bluffs that are spread out over a fairly large provincial park, composting toilets in key places, well bolted routes on fun and quality rock. There is some trad (some high quality trad too), but it is definitely mostly sport. The guidebook is well written and published in the by the same publisher that does the Squamish guidebook (in similar quality/style). It may be out print though and hard to find: http://www.canrockbooks.com/si/008027.html The camping is a bit problematic since it is a popular tourist town, so most camping is expensive, or up back roads and temporary. There is a a good website that promotes the climbing and has PDF's of new routes (and current ones too): http://www.skaha.org Personally I like it over Smith any day; it is much more easy going, it's a more pleasant environment/setting overlooking Lake Skaha and the routes are begging to be climbed (they are not sandbagged).
  15. Anybody ever used these techniques?

    I've seen slika 3 set up in practice and it seems to work well and makes sense.
  16. Yes, there is still ice in Washington State. JB and I went up to see what had formed in the last few weeks of cold weather (or never went away). As usual Strobach seems to hold the ice better/longer than anywhere ice in WA state (not including alpine LOL). There was quite a bit of ice at the Motherlode area, though a lot of the tops were not fully formed, and some of the biggest flows were not quite touching down. There was snow on a lot of the ice so it was hard to judge how thick the ice was, but from what we climbed, it was thick and easily protected. Approach: There is a good trail that we set from road 1202 that goes up road 611 to the ponds and up the clearings. The snow is DEEP otherwise. Have at it! Though I'm guessing the warmer temps on the way mean ice season probably done at Strobach unless you get up there quick. First on the Left: We ended up climbing First on the Left, both pitches were solid thick ice, well protected. On the second pitch, we climbed the left flow as the right flow is directly under the avy chute and we watched an avalanche come down it prior to climbing. The left flow was phat, the right flow was thin though still climbable and mostly protectable. Dropline: Dropline was the biggest iceflow that touched down and had blue ice not covered by snow. We climbed this and v-threaded off just short of the top as the ice did not top out. Great climb, thick well protected ice, nice steps to rest on (though a little wet at times). Other climbs: Sudden Change of Plans: Looked to be in and well protected, though lots of snow. Sad Ce'bu: Minimal to no ice (no ice after the cave) Ice Dreams: In, though lot's of snow down low, and thin at top (probably not something to top out on right now). Strobach A/B/C/D/Etc: Spicy! Some fat good ice up high, though not touching down. Potential overhung dry tooling to get hanging ice. Primus Sucks(?): Looking at it from afar; is super fun looking right now, except it's about 10-15' shy of touching down. The lower approach pitch appears to be in. Dropline Sudden Change of Plans (left) and Sad Ce'bu (right) Super thin and snowy looking compared to prime season (but Sudden Change of Plans is still climbable, ha!) First on the Left Ice was surprisingly thick!
  17. I'll see if my buddy got a pic. From what I remember, it touched down on the far right side of the pillar, thin and questionable as to well adhered to the wall. The left side next to the overhang also touched down, but was a overhung chandaliered column.
  18. Unfortunately I don't have any from this trip. I think I do from previous trips. Are you looking for current pics? My partner may have got one this weekend, though I'm sure conditions are changing rapidly right now.
  19. flying with climbing gear?

    I've been to Thailand for climbing twice (the last in 2010); I have always carried on my most valuable climbing equipment. I'd rather have to buy new clothes at the start of a climbing trip than get there and realize I have to buy new equipment. I've carried on trad gear through multiple national and international airports (Thailand, Japan, etc...) and it all seems kosher in the security lines. Half the time they don't care, the other half they take a second look, ask their supervisor what to do, the supervisor tells them it is climbing gear and tells them it is ok. The only problem I have had is trying to carry on a rope leaving Krabi, Thailand. They have a list of items that are not allowed as carry-on and a rope is one of them. I had to pay extra in order to check it (I think it was a scam particular to Krabi Int'l). Good luck and have fun!
  20. 1. Click "Enter an image" Icon, the 4th icon from the left. 2. Four optionss come up. The first one says "Insert a non-floating image", select that option. 3. A window pops up and says "Enter the URL for the image you wish to display". Paste the image URL such as http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/medium/600x450x100_1411.JPG.pagespeed.ic.BCz8VFuJaA.jpg 4. Click OK An image tag in your message now correctly appears. The tag begins with "" You won't see the image in your message, but if you want to see what the post looks like with your image you can press Preview Post right next to the submit button. OR, you could just type the tag into your message instead of doing the step-by-step above. "" (remove the quotes though) One problem you may have had was that your tags you were doing had instead of
  21. Labeled illustration of North Cascades

    I just picked up the posters that Portland Rock Gym did not sell so Edgeworks still has some.... Here's the info on where to get posters: Washington Climbers Coalition - Index Lower Town Wall Fundraiser North Cascades Illustrated Poster/Art $25 Each Tacoma: Edgeworks Climbing --253-564-4899 - Has plenty --Can be ordered over the phone and mailed within the NW for $8 These make for great Christmas gifts for others (and for yourself)! In all, once all posters are sold, $4300 will be raised for the Washington Climbers Coalition and the Index Lower Town Wall. Just think, your giving money to a great cause AND getting a cool poster out of it. Cheers! Tod Bloxham Edgeworks Climbing
  22. ?Rapping Snow Creek Wall

    I agree, the walk-off is easy: -If you know where you are going -If you are comfortable/able to follow a rock cairn/climber/mountain goat trail that occasionally forks or turns when you may not expect it to (i.e. you've never been down it) -You are comfortable on terrain that occasionally has angled slabs and loose rock. I've done the walk-off many-many times and have no issues with it, yet I've gone down with people that are sketched at the loose rock, slabs and what seems to be no discernible trail to them (Them: "Where's the trail?" Me: "Your standing on it" Them: "Where does it go?" Me: "Where that path and rock cairn is" Them: "Uh, OK"). I understand that not everyone's routefinding ability on unfamiliar (occassionally) loose/steep(er) terrain is not the same. With that in mind, a rap descent can be many times faster (and possibly safer). You can even bring up a tag line that weighs little and allows you to do double rope raps without the extra weight of a second rope. Also, if you are climbing with a party of 3, you may already have that second rope, and chances are someone in your group will be extremely slow on the walk-off due to lack of comfort/experience with the terrain.
  23. [TR] Alpine Lakes - Outer Space 4/25/2010

    Did you get a sense as to how much snow (if any) there might be in the regular descent gully?
  24. Alpinist 30

    Edgeworks has it on their shelves.
  25. trad gear and recent airport security

    I have flown both domestic and internationally multiple times with a full trad rack and rope in my carry on. These flights have been both within the last 5 years and within the last 12 months Domestic has never been a problem other than the occasional odd look and possible search that confirms that there is nothing sharp or explosive. If you are flying internationally, I found that the Krabi, Thailand airport will not let you carry on a rope as it is considered dangerous item. The only climbing item that I won't put in my carry on is a nut tool. It just looks to suspicious.