Dru Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 the route that wa climber mike orr gave 14b/c was downrated to 14b and then to 14a/b by the canadian 2nd and 3rd ascents i dunno about left side. beckham and croft both thought it was 11+ but mclane thinks its 12a and so the book sez 12a Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 cairns is who you think he is. a good climber who left washington! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCramer Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 Dru said: cairns is who you think he is. a good climber who left washington! Ya you say that as if good footwork and a pleasant personality mattered! He had to move to balance out EW and NY! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 Dru said: for $3.00 US you can get a wicked sub and a drink at subs plus on 2nd. For $3 US, you can get all sorts of tasty stuff at the Sultan Bakery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 For $3 you can get 3 landjager at the Index store. Plus you can climb where this happened But if you keep your insolence up Dru the Turtles will see your ears bolted to a rock in the parking lot Souie Souie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 gee some people are really sensitive about how second rate index is! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 Dru said: gee some people are really sensitive about how second rate index is! Burp.... Squish is bigger but that's about it.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 and squash rains a hell of a lot more. bring a goddamn wetsuit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 ...none of that tempting pub scene at Index, gotta love the savings there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 MisterE said: ...none of that tempting pub scene at Index, gotta love the savings there... The beer at the Squish brewpub blows goats. You're better off going to a store and buying beer...same as Index. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 trask said: and squash rains a hell of a lot more. bring a goddamn wetsuit. NO WHERE rains more than Index. Grow some fucking gills and a slime coating if you plan on climbing there. Here is a picture I found of the ultimate Index climber: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offwidthclimber Posted July 18, 2003 Author Share Posted July 18, 2003 christ! i created a m0nSTer... by the way... the guy in that original thread recinded his comment about WA climbers: http://rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=21911&postdays=0&postorder=asc&topic_view=&start=60 however, the squish v. index battle rages on. where's the love? peace, love, , and Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 nothing in this thread should be taken seriously - except for my comments about trask Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 Dru said: nothing in this thread should be taken seriously - except for my comments about trask and my comment about bolting your ears to the rock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offwidthclimber Posted July 18, 2003 Author Share Posted July 18, 2003 and my comment about 5.6 - 5.10 sport routes only being good for top roping girl scouts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 AlpineK said: Dru said: nothing in this thread should be taken seriously - except for my comments about trask and my comment about bolting your ears to the rock do you even have a power drill? now if you were threatening to log and chip me i might get worried, but my butt is firm and healthy pink(HEY LADIES), not brown, cubical and rotting, so i guess I'm safe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 > "I won't speculate on the grade (ha, ha), but it is "all there"...decent > finger locks the entire way with feet that would be considered very good > by Indian Creek standards." > (re: City Park @ Index) City Park DOES NOT have decent finger locks, unless your fingers are the size of Lynn Hill's. For anyone with normal or large fingers it's a 5.15. I don't think it's ever had a clean free ascent placing gear on lead. > "Finally, Washington ain't exactly the center of the universe for hard > free climbing. good rock climbers don't live there, and they don't > travel there either..." depends what you call "hard free climbing" and "good free climbers" Are you talking your average "hard climb/climber" like say Greg Child or the 1/10th of 1/10th of 1/10th of 1 percent like Andy DeKlerk? > Index is, I dunno, that's correct > We all know Index is to Squamish as Exit 38 is to Smiff. What this "we" you got a turd in your pocket? I've climbed at Squamish AND Index, have you? How can you accurately comment about a crag you've never even been to? > cause i am a professional and will require payment to suffer through the > dirt and moss and GNS gapers I hear reportedly infest Index. I'll give you .50 cents to stay away... it'll be your loss. > not to > mention rain, less than squamish > slugs, are you afraid? > rockfall, no more than any where else > fogs, sorry, never seen fog at Index > drunken locals, there may be but I've never seen them, actually it's not a redneck town, more like old hippies. > poor cuisine, Zeke's ostrich menu rules, there are several eateries just down the road and Seattle is one hour away. > roast pig heads and axle greased cracks.... trad climbers defending the lower wall... a classic trad area, and cheating SPEWMEISTER Todd Skinner deserves whatever he gets. > SQUAMISH: bouldering. INDEX: no bouldering worth speaking of I thought we were talking climbing? > SQUAMISH: sport routes of all grades 5.6-5.14c INDEX: only 5.11 and up > basically; no 5.14s but several classics in that range > SQUAMISH: over 1,000 pitches of TRAD from 1 to 23 pitches in length > including WORLD CLASSICS. INDEX: a few hundred pitches of trad, > multipitch is only 5-6 p. long unless you count Mt Baring. heavily > concentrated in the 5.10 to 5.12 range basically mostly 5.9 to 5.12 Good climbers are heavily concentrated in that range, the 1/10th of 1/10th of 1/10th of 1 percent will have to go somewhere else, so sad. > SQUAMISH: clean on popular routes. INDEX: vegetated/mossy on even > semipopular routes everything worth climbing is clean > SQUAMISH: a town to hang out in INDEX: a quarry converted to > redneckville to camp out in good free camping, seattle is one hour away > SQUAMISH REST DAY ACTIVITY: windsurf, mountainbike, hike, smoke good > Canadian weed. all close by, windsurf one hour away > INDEX REST DAY ACTIVITY: Reptile Zoo. is a one hour drive that difficult for you? If you could drive with your mouth, you'd be there in 10 minutes. > SQUAMISH AID: about 2 dozen routes from 1-12 pitches and C1 to A4+. > INDEX AID: mostly single pitch, dirty, or aiding free routes 2- classic 6 pitch climbs on upper wall, 24 pitch North Norwegian Buttress VI 5.9 A3+ on Index peak is (I believe) unrepeated. > you guys are trying the reverse psychology, "oh don't throw me in that > briar patch" approach to get me to avoid index cause you know I would > own the crag and your weak, softly graded routes would bow down before > me.... I've climbed from Jasper Alberta to southern CA, Index has to be the most sandbagged crag I've climbed at. Try Sagittarius, 1st pitch of Lamplighter, Sloe Children, just to name a few. If you jump on something that's rated at the limit of your ability chances are good your going to get your ass KICKED. I would say as far as quality Squamish and Index are about equal, Index might have a slightly higher percentage of quality routes in the good climbers range, the only thing Squamish really has over Index is quantity, and I say that after having climbed at both crags. Until you've climbed at Index all your talk is just.... talk. Variety is the spice of life, part of climbing is trying different places, so Index is out of the way, it does have world class climbing, the world just doesn't know it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 Dru said: AlpineK said: Dru said: nothing in this thread should be taken seriously - except for my comments about trask and my comment about bolting your ears to the rock do you even have a power drill? now if you were threatening to log and chip me i might get worried, but my butt is firm and healthy pink(HEY LADIES), not brown, cubical and rotting, so i guess I'm safe I have access to a plethora of power tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 Buckaroo said: > "I won't speculate on the grade (ha, ha), but it is "all there"...decent > finger locks the entire way with feet that would be considered very good > by Indian Creek standards." > (re: City Park @ Index) City Park DOES NOT have decent finger locks, unless your fingers are the size of Lynn Hill's. For anyone with normal or large fingers it's a 5.15. I don't think it's ever had a clean free ascent placing gear on lead. > "Finally, Washington ain't exactly the center of the universe for hard > free climbing. good rock climbers don't live there, and they don't > travel there either..." depends what you call "hard free climbing" and "good free climbers" Are you talking your average "hard climb/climber" like say Greg Child or the 1/10th of 1/10th of 1/10th of 1 percent like Andy DeKlerk? > Index is, I dunno, that's correct > We all know Index is to Squamish as Exit 38 is to Smiff. What this "we" you got a turd in your pocket? I've climbed at Squamish AND Index, have you? How can you accurately comment about a crag you've never even been to? > cause i am a professional and will require payment to suffer through the > dirt and moss and GNS gapers I hear reportedly infest Index. I'll give you .50 cents to stay away... it'll be your loss. > not to > mention rain, less than squamish > slugs, are you afraid? > rockfall, no more than any where else > fogs, sorry, never seen fog at Index > drunken locals, there may be but I've never seen them, actually it's not a redneck town, more like old hippies. > poor cuisine, Zeke's ostrich menu rules, there are several eateries just down the road and Seattle is one hour away. > roast pig heads and axle greased cracks.... trad climbers defending the lower wall... a classic trad area, and cheating SPEWMEISTER Todd Skinner deserves whatever he gets. > SQUAMISH: bouldering. INDEX: no bouldering worth speaking of I thought we were talking climbing? > SQUAMISH: sport routes of all grades 5.6-5.14c INDEX: only 5.11 and up > basically; no 5.14s but several classics in that range > SQUAMISH: over 1,000 pitches of TRAD from 1 to 23 pitches in length > including WORLD CLASSICS. INDEX: a few hundred pitches of trad, > multipitch is only 5-6 p. long unless you count Mt Baring. heavily > concentrated in the 5.10 to 5.12 range basically mostly 5.9 to 5.12 Good climbers are heavily concentrated in that range, the 1/10th of 1/10th of 1/10th of 1 percent will have to go somewhere else, so sad. > SQUAMISH: clean on popular routes. INDEX: vegetated/mossy on even > semipopular routes everything worth climbing is clean > SQUAMISH: a town to hang out in INDEX: a quarry converted to > redneckville to camp out in good free camping, seattle is one hour away > SQUAMISH REST DAY ACTIVITY: windsurf, mountainbike, hike, smoke good > Canadian weed. all close by, windsurf one hour away > INDEX REST DAY ACTIVITY: Reptile Zoo. is a one hour drive that difficult for you? If you could drive with your mouth, you'd be there in 10 minutes. > SQUAMISH AID: about 2 dozen routes from 1-12 pitches and C1 to A4+. > INDEX AID: mostly single pitch, dirty, or aiding free routes 2- classic 6 pitch climbs on upper wall, 24 pitch North Norwegian Buttress VI 5.9 A3+ on Index peak is (I believe) unrepeated. > you guys are trying the reverse psychology, "oh don't throw me in that > briar patch" approach to get me to avoid index cause you know I would > own the crag and your weak, softly graded routes would bow down before > me.... I've climbed from Jasper Alberta to southern CA, Index has to be the most sandbagged crag I've climbed at. Try Sagittarius, 1st pitch of Lamplighter, Sloe Children, just to name a few. If you jump on something that's rated at the limit of your ability chances are good your going to get your ass KICKED. I would say as far as quality Squamish and Index are about equal, Index might have a slightly higher percentage of quality routes in the good climbers range, the only thing Squamish really has over Index is quantity, and I say that after having climbed at both crags. Until you've climbed at Index all your talk is just.... talk. Variety is the spice of life, part of climbing is trying different places, so Index is out of the way, it does have world class climbing, the world just doesn't know it. oh WHATEVER, let me guess, you sell real estate It's OK, you don't have to be defensive, I PROMISE not to come down and embarass the locals by onsighting all the "sandbag" routes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 If the mayor and/or city council in Squamish will cover my expenses I'll head up there, climb, and sing the praises of both the rock and the friendly local youths in every online forum out there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fence_Sitter Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 no dru...we want you too... free city park... you are such a bad-ass... you would have oodles of beer money... and $50 from me... do it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MysticNacho Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 No one's freed city park while placing gear? Interesting. Just where does one find out about the North Norwegian Buttress? (Just out of curiosity) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fence_Sitter Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 climb BNS and look accross the river... bad-ass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 oh WHATEVER, let me guess, you sell real estate It's OK, you don't have to be defensive, I PROMISE not to come down and embarass the locals by onsighting all the "sandbag" routes ______________________ no, mechanic nothin personal, but what if someone who never climbed at squamish told you it was crap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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