Norsky Posted July 9, 2003 Posted July 9, 2003 So let's hear your pics for all time worst chipped, crowded, etc. routes. Whilst bouldering (no it's not a crime), I checked out Kakodemon Rock at Squamish and saw those two drilled out lines on the uphill side. The worst one was seriously a line of "bowling ball" holes all the way up! Quote
chirp Posted July 9, 2003 Posted July 9, 2003 Well, having spend some time climbing at Devils Tower...I must say that seasonally: The Durrance Route was always packed full of gumbys and seige climbers and the ever present stench of urine. Otherwise any route at Smith with bolts. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 9, 2003 Posted July 9, 2003 Fossil Rock- Reason- There aint nuttin else near there. But if you live and die in Tacoma you might visit. I'm not cappin on anyone that does or puts up routes there. It's just an opinion. Some other shitty routes: Anything in Toulomne Meadows or Lovers Leap Quote
Norsky Posted July 9, 2003 Author Posted July 9, 2003 When I did the DC about 10 years ago, it was tolerable cause we camped at Ingrahm Flats. Still, seeing the line of headlamps coming up around 1:00am was very creepy. Loads of shit and puke as well. Someone coiled a hoopsnake in the warm summit vent! Quote
fern Posted July 9, 2003 Posted July 9, 2003 The Jigsaw Flow at Neat and Cool is the worst waste of time contrivance that was ever bolted. Someday I will chop that route so that no-one else ever makes the mistake of climbing it. Stupid squeeze-job PoS . I suggest you all take a jiffy marker to your Squamish guide and excise this route completely. Quote
Dru Posted July 9, 2003 Posted July 9, 2003 you can't do the reachy move on Jig Flow huh fern? i think the worst route i have ever done was.... um... originally i had this saying they're all good even the choss piles! but i change my mind. neon sunset at the magic bus 2nd pullout red rocks is the dumbest route anywhere. i think there is 9 bolts in 15 meters of climbing or about 1 every 5 feet. hard to not trip over them, when we did it we only clipped 2 of em there is this mossy, slimy, diagonal crack at krack rock in the smoke bluffs that sux too but i can't remember its name. tradgirl called it a real good climb so maybe it should be transplanted to noo yawk state. Quote
fern Posted July 9, 2003 Posted July 9, 2003 Dru said: you can't do the reachy move on Jig Flow huh fern? hey sparky! I sent the whole thing. And it was 15 minutes of my life I will never get back. Quote
Dru Posted July 9, 2003 Posted July 9, 2003 well i have done it 3 or 4 times now! y aren't u in the http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/jchat.php not so late nite chat room fern huh? Quote
Norsky Posted July 9, 2003 Author Posted July 9, 2003 fern said: Dru said: you can't do the reachy move on Jig Flow huh fern? hey sparky! I sent the whole thing. And it was 15 minutes of my life I will never get back. The last hour of chatting in this rag, I'll never get back. Quote
Dave_Schuldt Posted July 9, 2003 Posted July 9, 2003 RIMING THE BERRIES AT VANTAGE; LOOSE, DIRTY AND FULL OF PIGON SHIT. Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted July 9, 2003 Posted July 9, 2003 there is this mossy, slimy, diagonal crack at krack rock in the smoke bluffs that sux i hate that thing! it is like pikie dust or some shit like that.. POS! Quote
iain Posted July 9, 2003 Posted July 9, 2003 Wy'East, Mt. Hood (prob. because the 3 times I've been on it have been totally bad conditions) Quote
catbirdseat Posted July 9, 2003 Posted July 9, 2003 North Face of Pilchuck. Broken glass and urine below the lookout tower. Quote
mattp Posted July 9, 2003 Posted July 9, 2003 The first pitch of Narrow Arrow at Index is a poor choice. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted July 9, 2003 Posted July 9, 2003 Mirkwood Forest although the new guide indicates that it has been recleaned when I did it it was unbelievably filthy and very hard to get pro. PP Quote
slothrop Posted July 9, 2003 Posted July 9, 2003 mattp said: The first pitch of Narrow Arrow at Index is a poor choice. What's so bad about it? I've been looking at the guidebook and want to do a four-pitch climb (2p aid, 2p 5.7) that starts with Narrow Arrow (or maybe it's NA Direct... there are so many lines there). Quote
bird Posted July 9, 2003 Posted July 9, 2003 2nd to last pitch on Birds of Prey. I threw a hissy fit on that one while on TR. Should have rapped prior to that but my partner usually opts for dirty wet top outs as opposed to rapping. Quote
mattp Posted July 9, 2003 Posted July 9, 2003 Narrow Arrow overhang, and perhaps Narrow Arrow Direct (I don't remember which climb that is) are OK. Narrow Arrow climbs a corner of dirty stacked up blocks for the first pitch - and it has been many years since I've been on it but I thought it was one of the scariest things I found at Index. People choose it for its rating (5.7), but I don't think I've ever heard anybody come away from it with anything good to say about it. Quote
Stefan Posted July 9, 2003 Posted July 9, 2003 WORST RAPPEL By far the Bedayn couloir off of Goode. Don't do it. Jim Nelson's book makes a bad recommendation. Quote
Alex Posted July 9, 2003 Posted July 9, 2003 iain said: Wy'East, Mt. Hood (prob. because the 3 times I've been on it have been totally bad conditions) iain, go do it in nice winter conditions on a clear day. You'll change your tune, its an awesome route! As for my votes, the North Face of Big Four in summer the NE Ridge of Adams (yuck!) Aries Chimney at Index Quote
eric8 Posted July 9, 2003 Posted July 9, 2003 Alex said: As for my votes, Aries Chimney at Index No way, that chimney is classic. In sort of akward grunt kinda way. I thought the 1st pitch of rodgers corner was shitty, all dirty and the rock qualtiy not exactly good either. Quote
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