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Worst routes ever


Norsky

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So let's hear your pics for all time worst chipped, crowded, etc. routes.

 

Whilst bouldering (no it's not a crime), I checked out Kakodemon Rock at Squamish and saw those two drilled out lines on the uphill side. The worst one was seriously a line of "bowling ball" holes all the way up! moon.gifmoon.gif

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Well, having spend some time climbing at Devils Tower...I must say that seasonally: The Durrance Route was always packed full of gumbys and seige climbers and the ever present stench of urine.

 

Otherwise any route at Smith with bolts. cantfocus.gif

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When I did the DC about 10 years ago, it was tolerable cause we camped at Ingrahm Flats. Still, seeing the line of headlamps coming up around 1:00am was very creepy. Loads of shit and puke as well. Someone coiled a hoopsnake in the warm summit vent!

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The Jigsaw Flow at Neat and Cool is the worst waste of time contrivance that was ever bolted. Someday I will chop that route so that no-one else ever makes the mistake of climbing it. Stupid squeeze-job PoS madgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gif . I suggest you all take a jiffy marker to your Squamish guide and excise this route completely. wave.gif

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you can't do the reachy move on Jig Flow huh fern? hahaha.gif

 

i think the worst route i have ever done was.... um... originally i had this saying

they're all good even the choss piles! thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gif

 

but i change my mind. neon sunset at the magic bus 2nd pullout red rocks is the dumbest route anywhere. i think there is 9 bolts in 15 meters of climbing or about 1 every 5 feet. hard to not trip over them, when we did it we only clipped 2 of em thumbs_down.gif

 

there is this mossy, slimy, diagonal crack at krack rock in the smoke bluffs that sux too but i can't remember its name. tradgirl called it a real good climb so maybe it should be transplanted to noo yawk state.

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fern said:

Dru said:

you can't do the reachy move on Jig Flow huh fern? hahaha.gif

 

rolleyes.gif hey sparky! I sent the whole thing. And it was 15 minutes of my life I will never get back. tongue.gif

 

The last hour of chatting in this rag, I'll never get back.

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mattp said:

The first pitch of Narrow Arrow at Index is a poor choice.

What's so bad about it? I've been looking at the guidebook and want to do a four-pitch climb (2p aid, 2p 5.7) that starts with Narrow Arrow (or maybe it's NA Direct... there are so many lines there). confused.gif

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Narrow Arrow overhang, and perhaps Narrow Arrow Direct (I don't remember which climb that is) are OK. Narrow Arrow climbs a corner of dirty stacked up blocks for the first pitch - and it has been many years since I've been on it but I thought it was one of the scariest things I found at Index. People choose it for its rating (5.7), but I don't think I've ever heard anybody come away from it with anything good to say about it.

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iain said:

Wy'East, Mt. Hood (prob. because the 3 times I've been on it have been totally bad conditions)

 

iain, go do it in nice winter conditions on a clear day. You'll change your tune, its an awesome route!

 

As for my votes,

 

the North Face of Big Four in summer

the NE Ridge of Adams (yuck!)

Aries Chimney at Index

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Alex said:

 

As for my votes,

Aries Chimney at Index

 

No way, that chimney is classic. In sort of akward grunt kinda way.

 

I thought the 1st pitch of rodgers corner was shitty, all dirty and the rock qualtiy not exactly good either.

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