hakioawa Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 Some friends and I were at octopus's garden at the smoke bluffs this weekend. We got there early and had the whole place to ourselves. For about 10 minutes. A huge group of people quickly showed up and started putting up top ropes. A!@@ holes! This is perhaps one of the best moderate crack crags in Squamish. 5 of the 5 or up are ready willing and able to lead gear routes in the 5.6-5.9 range. But we got booted off. One guy threw a rope down the climb I was leading (5.9, can't remember the name) then was pissed cause I claimed I was crowding his route. I used to this it was cool to chop bolts but leave the anchors. Now I say, time to add a gorilla bar an a socket wrench to my crag pack. Chop the anchors and the top ropers will be SOL! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 dude, it's the smoke bluffs. tr city. pretty much always. there are many other places to climb in squish where the tr heathens can be avoided. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 Yo...when you pickin' this stuff up??? Nearly threw my back out luggin' that #4 over to work!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 No, not always tr city, but it is a risk you run there. These ones sound a bit rude though. TLG's right, there's always somewhere to avoid the crowds. Oh, and toproping is climbing too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 i have so much shit to do it's not even funny. how about tonight? i'm done at the gardens at like 3 ... or 4. i won't have time beforehand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 send luke skywalker over... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 he'll be at the gardens around 3. not sure what he's up to beforehand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 what's his #? I just called yours...its not on... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hakioawa Posted July 7, 2003 Author Share Posted July 7, 2003 Yeah I know thats what we get for climbing at the Smoke bluffs. But the thing is there are so many contrived bolted routes. Putting multiple ropes on 2 and 3 star cracks really pisses me off. Oh and I got no problem top roping I do it too. Just not on classic gear lines. I saw some guy practicing acending a rope on Flying Circus 5.10a at Neat and Cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bunglehead Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 Hey Seattle folks, you guys are lucky you have a selection of crags. In Eugene, we have one place to climb (the Columns) that's decent when nobody is there but most of the time sucks and is choked with gapers. I've had ropes dropped on me several times. When it's crowded, you can't even take in slack w/o hitting the person next to you. I just go early in the mornin, and usually there's only one other group there. Boo to gapers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 bunglehead said: Hey Seattle folks, you guys are lucky you have a selection of crags. In Eugene, we have one place to climb (the Columns) that's decent when nobody is there but most of the time sucks and is choked with gapers. I've had ropes dropped on me several times. When it's crowded, you can't even take in slack w/o hitting the person next to you. I just go early in the mornin, and usually there's only one other group there. Boo to gapers it hasn't been too bad lately with most of the students gone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bunglehead Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 True. And it's damn pleasant in the early morning (before 7) I actually like the columns when nobody's there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 (edited) bunglehead said: True. And it's damn pleasant in the early morning (before 7) I actually like the columns when nobody's there. I don't even mind it with all the people arround. Sometimes I run into people I realy like But I have to admit, sitting at the top setting an anchor watching the sun come up, (okay umm not come up, because you are facing west, but you do watch it get light ) TOTALY RULEZ!!! I love to watch the city (er um town) wake up Edited July 8, 2003 by Muffy_The_Wanker_Sprayer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 Hey Hiakowa, I still got those Bella Fleck tickets but haven't heard from you about recieving them. If you are still interested give me an email at jasonshappart2001@yahoo.com or I'll be looking for another buyer, Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 shapp said: Hey Hiakowa, I still got those Bella Fleck tickets but haven't heard from you about recieving them. If you are still interested give me an email at jasonshappart2001@yahoo.com or I'll be looking for another buyer, Cheers bad form dude! why dont you email him? and on the top ropers, it sux when they throw ropes on you and shit. it sux when the monopolize crags. but the sad reality is, if they are not perceptive to your words then bahhh with them. smoke bluffs has lots of good crags. better things to worry about. that are hang around and be uber fucking obnoxious! thats what i would do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 erik said: but the sad reality is, if they are not perceptive to your words then bahhh with them. erik is not a goat; he's a sheep! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 that or hang around and be uber fucking obnoxious! thats what i would do. Exactly. Srategicly place yourself with a half dozen or so 24 oz "king cans" of varying lousy quality, proudly display them as you shotgun a few while burning a rather large spleef. If they aren't gone yet, tie into your ratiest rope and follow up so close they're nearly stepping on you, shouting pointless beta the whole time. They'll get annoyed enough to leave. Of course it would be easier if Hakioawa wasn't so pompous and realized that it's a popular area that he has no more right to than the next guy. If you don't like the "atmosphere", move on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hakioawa Posted July 8, 2003 Author Share Posted July 8, 2003 slaphappy said: that or hang around and be uber fucking obnoxious! thats what i would do. Exactly. Srategicly place yourself with a half dozen or so 24 oz "king cans" of varying lousy quality, proudly display them as you shotgun a few while burning a rather large spleef. If they aren't gone yet, tie into your ratiest rope and follow up so close they're nearly stepping on you, shouting pointless beta the whole time. They'll get annoyed enough to leave. Of course it would be easier if Hakioawa wasn't so pompous and realized that it's a popular area that he has no more right to than the next guy. If you don't like the "atmosphere", move on. Hey Slaphappy, kiss my Of course I know its a popular place. But common courtesy says not to throw a TR down on a leader. I was a bit pissed and am just blowing off steam. And yeah thats what we did, we left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 ...and cheers to you, Hakioawa! Your original post and auto sig paint enough of a picture for me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodchester Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 One guy threw a rope down the climb I was leading Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 hakioawa said: common courtesy says not to throw a TR down on a leader You're lucky they weren't euros, or they might have done worse than that. In the Bugaboos and in Chamonix, I've had eurodogs pull down on my belay rope while I was leading! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 mattp said: In the Bugaboos and in Chamonix, I've had eurodogs pull down on my belay rope while I was leading! That's when handguns come in handy! Yeesh... some people (if we can call them that). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fence_Sitter Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 we call them frogs... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 mattp said: hakioawa said: common courtesy says not to throw a TR down on a leader You're lucky they weren't euros, or they might have done worse than that. In the Bugaboos and in Chamonix, I've had eurodogs pull down on my belay rope while I was leading! Thats when your belay takes out his ice axe and tells them to back the fuck up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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