Hans_Blix Posted June 19, 2003 Posted June 19, 2003 Ok everyone, if you don't care about speed ascents, LEAVE THIS THREAD NOW! If you care, here's the story. Soon to be released in the press, but brought to you first by CC.COM investigators. Chad Kellogg broke the previous speed record on Denali set by Alex Lowe. Alex's record is reported to be 18 1/2 hours (yet to confirm this, but the NPS reports this stat.) Chad went from base camp, to the summit in 14 hours, 22 minutes. He returned to base camp, round tripping the mountain in 23 hours, 55 minutes. He did the trip in 3 stages, using skis to 7,800 feet, then switching to running spikes to 11K, then switching to plastics and crampons from 11K up. He carried a down suit, mittens, CB radio and 3 liters of water. He had a small food cache at 14, but was unable to find it when he arrived. Some other climbers gave him a bit of food to carry on. He made the 14 medical camp in 7 hours from base camp. As for verification.. Lisa Roderick started the timer at base camp, 7K. Chad ran into a National Geo Film crew and Dave Morton (AAI guide) at 14K. The film crew videoed Chad as he ran, and asked a few questions. On the summit, Chad had a french climber and team verify his time, they radioed down to Mark Westman who was at the 7K base camp with Lisa. The French climber was Ivo Vesely. Chad then returned to 14K, ate more food, and continued down to 11k, where he ran into ranger Joe Reichart. He was stuck for a bit in a whiteout, but continued descending to basecamp, returning in under 24 hours. Mark Westman and Lisa were there to verify his return time. Now this will undoubtly start a new vain of conversation. More details will present themselves in the days to come, but many folks on this web site know many of the above witnesses/timers. SO, make up your own mind. There is also word that Chad intends to race head to head with Dan - in that speed race in Asia (forgot the name). It's also rumored that he has his sights set on a new speed record for Rainier. Quote
JoshK Posted June 19, 2003 Posted June 19, 2003 WTF. Is this a joke? Even if it is, the concept of Chad vs. Dan would be hilarious. I'd love to see Dan fall flat on his face in his own lies *with* witnesses. Quote
Rodchester Posted June 19, 2003 Posted June 19, 2003 man Chad is the man...I heard, some years ago that he came within 15 minutes of Alex's rcord on Ama Dablam. Looks like he got it this time. Of course some one wuill say it was an aid ascent because he took food from others. Chad Quote
Hans_Blix Posted June 19, 2003 Author Posted June 19, 2003 Rodchester said: Of course some one wuill say it was an aid ascent because he took food from others. Chad was pretty up front about this. And yes, food is aid, but the fact still remains, he fucking ripped it. Can't wait to see Dan and Chad race against each other. Quote
Rodchester Posted June 19, 2003 Posted June 19, 2003 Quote: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Rodchester said: Of course some one wuill say it was an aid ascent because he took food from others. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Chad was pretty up front about this. And yes, food is aid, but the fact still remains, he fucking ripped it. Can't wait to see Dan and Chad race against each other. Hans...I am with you on that one. I trust Chad as being honest and upfront on these things. I've met him a few times and know a lot of people that know him. He has a good reputation. He ripped it!!! Quote
ryland_moore Posted June 19, 2003 Posted June 19, 2003 That's awesome. Congrats to Chad. Hope he is well. That time is pretty schweet too! After doing that route this spring, I have total respect for anyone who can do a climb like that. You must remember that the route itself is over 15 miles long from BC to summit, and that does not include any objective hazards, crevasses, and fixed lines. I am totally impressed. Now kick Dan's ass on Khan Tengri! Quote
Dru Posted June 19, 2003 Posted June 19, 2003 3 witnesses GPS has his dog attacked anyone is Hans Blix an avatar of Chad??? Quote
hikerwa Posted June 19, 2003 Posted June 19, 2003 I believe that I read somewheres that dan pulled out of the Speed Climbing contest.... Quote
youngprofessor Posted June 19, 2003 Posted June 19, 2003 yup...that's the word we've heard...that dan-O - has dropped out of the khan tengri race in khaz. haven't had that confirmed yet by boukreev.org... they still list him as a recipiant of an award http://www.boukreev.org/bl2.htm perhaps of more interest...is that dan - made an attempt at a speed record last week on hood, and the event was was witnessed by J. Thomas, well-known Oregon guide book author. dan started in government camp, climbed to the true summit of mt. hood, and returned to timberline for a finish there. the fastest time to date for that route was made by dr. steve boyer in the '80's, at 3:13. dan's time was 4:58 THIS YEAR, which was an HOUR AND 3/4 SLOWER than boyer's previous record. seems dan isn't performing well when timed by people who are interested in objectively recording such events. to date, dan - has not defended any of his records, and instead slanders those people who challenge them. he calls people names, slanders and attacks them in the press, and goes to great lengths to DEFLECT the topic away from him PROVING his records. i imagine we'll see more slandering by dan - soon... aimed at those people who've challenged his records. instead of taking this slippery slope, MR. DAN -, why don't you take chad kellog's challenge for a face to face speed climb on mt. rainier... and prove things once and for all? if you beat chad... it won't necessarily support your last year's claim, but it would go a long ways in getting folks to support any of your claims. looooose the race... and you'll really need to take the opportunity and GO AWAY. chad... job well done. i'm jelous and proud of your supreme and awesome effort. well done, mate. Quote
Hans_Blix Posted June 20, 2003 Author Posted June 20, 2003 This info on Dan is cute. But let's not take away from Chad's achievement. This sort of fitness is impressive. The press and climbing community will celebrate this feat and others more as time goes on. Nice "try" Dru! Don't you know, I'm Scandinavian and work the UN. Quote
JoshK Posted June 20, 2003 Posted June 20, 2003 That's pretty sweet by Chad. Honestly, just under 5 hours going up and down hood doesn't sound that impressive at all. I think you could find a large group of people just physically fit that could do it. Quote
Dru Posted June 20, 2003 Posted June 20, 2003 I read in Smoke Blanchard's autobiography that he did 3 or 4 round trip laps on Hood in a day back in the 40's. Quote
youngprofessor Posted June 20, 2003 Posted June 20, 2003 (edited) Hans, i totally agree...we ought not to focus on other topics, such as -, when kellog is out there making real records. however, after much of the press got caught lauding dan -'s hoaxes... they'll be much less likely to cover those real mountaineers, such as kellog, when they really do achieve very notable and impressive records. while none of us wants to go po-leacing what others are doing... when there's an obvious hoaxter amongst us, it's up to the community to expose them for what they really are--so that guys and gals who make those rare real achievements, can continue to receive the press and notarity they deserve...if they want it. kellog's mt. mckinley denali speed ascent is truly worthy, from all angles. i once did a down and back, from 14k to 7k and back in 24 hours, and thought that was pretty cool. what kellog did was totally spectacular and i can't wait to hear all about his trip...and no doubt...how tough the effort was. chad kellog you rock! -------- what'da get when ya put 151Dru into a hans blixter... a youngprofessor. Edited June 20, 2003 by youngprofessor Quote
EWolfe Posted June 20, 2003 Posted June 20, 2003 Hans_Blix said: Ok everyone, if you don't care about speed ascents, LEAVE THIS THREAD NOW! If you care, here's the story. Soon to be released in the press, but brought to you first by CC.COM investigators. Chad Kellogg broke the previous speed record on Denali set by Alex Lowe. Alex's record is reported to be 18 1/2 hours (yet to confirm this, but the NPS reports this stat.) Chad went from base camp, to the summit in 14 hours, 22 minutes. He returned to base camp, round tripping the mountain in 23 hours, 55 minutes. He did the trip in 3 stages, using skis to 7,800 feet, then switching to running spikes to 11K, then switching to plastics and crampons from 11K up. He carried a down suit, mittens, CB radio and 3 liters of water. He had a small food cache at 14, but was unable to find it when he arrived. Some other climbers gave him a bit of food to carry on. He made the 14 medical camp in 7 hours from base camp. I have known Chad and Chris for years, and the are both exceptional athletes! I am elated about this news, and not a bit surprised! Congratulations, Chad, YOU ARE THE MACHINE!!!! (also, known as "The Captain") Quote
lummox Posted June 20, 2003 Posted June 20, 2003 sheeit. i thought mugs stump climbed cassin ridge in like 15 hours. i think the route counts for several hours off. Quote
pete_a Posted June 20, 2003 Posted June 20, 2003 I am assuming that Chad spent a fair amount of time at 14k or higher getting acclimated before trying this...right? Anyone know how long he acclimated? Round tripping Denali in under 24 hours is incredible, I can't imagine travelling all that terrain in one day. Cheers Chad! Rip it up on Khan Tengri! Quote
islander1 Posted June 20, 2003 Posted June 20, 2003 Have also known Chad for years. If he said he did it, he did it. Before climbing, before snowboarding, he was a dedicated luge racer, hitchhiking all over to compete. He is the man! MD Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 20, 2003 Posted June 20, 2003 Good for him. I'd rather bivy 15 times and squat my fat ass and take pictures. He must be fit. He must have also specifically trained for it. NO bad comments intended. Is this about the evolution as man being a superhuman being? Haha. For real though- Good for Chad. I specifically train for beer guzzling and invite others to a sober to drunk challenge. If you can guzzle more beer than me before passing out then I buy you an extra 6 pack. Starting sober is only an option. How about that for an olympic sport Quote
Hans_Blix Posted June 20, 2003 Author Posted June 20, 2003 Pete, great point, forget to mention the other news. Chad summitted Denali 3 times in 5 days (that includes the speed ascent and 1 from 14K I think). Chad also climbed 34,000 vertical UP feet that one week. I'm sure more details about the trip will come out soon. He's guiding the McKinley now. Youngprofessor, I agree and see your point. Real achievements must be distingushed from fake weapons of mass information. It's important that the climbing community and our credibility remain as solid as possible. So Youngprofessor, "Fire at will..." Quote
youngprofessor Posted June 20, 2003 Posted June 20, 2003 hans, thanks for adding some more details. i'm gonna revise my earlier statement, of: "chad kellog rocks," to... chad kellog f*ck'in rocks! i am now motivated to get off my ass. thanks chad, for giving me the motivation to get roll'in! Quote
Dwayner Posted June 20, 2003 Posted June 20, 2003 That fellow sure is fast but the one-day stunt isn't new. Galen Rowell and Ned Gillette did it back in 1978...I think it's written up in one of Rowell's books and it was a wild adventure. They may have started at a higher elevation. If I recall, they landed on the glacier around 10,000 feet? and started from there. I saw a web-site where some big-shot was giving a slide-show about "the real" first one-day ascent....assumably claiming his was more legit. because he might have started from "Kahiltna Airport". Sour grapes....Rowell and Gillette (both dead now), should get the credit. Or we can move the starting line back yet another mile and claim it's yet to be done legitimately, eh? Quote
Old_Man Posted June 20, 2003 Posted June 20, 2003 Herr Dr. Professor Iceman, You're right on all accounts, and your memory serves you well. Not sure Chad was claiming a first-time "dayer," nor the fastest RT ascent. His time though...however it pans out in comparision to others, is totally incredible, and speaks his discipline of training and committment to good style. There are certainly those who might claim he took some bread from those lads at 14k, or might have cached some food --and it reduced his achievment...and to those that push that line of thinking, I say go climb Denali in a day... then come back to laud your criticisms. Hope - takes Chad up on his offer to a speed race! It's time to see if - can cut the mustard with some real competition...and witnesses. Chad...I'll tip a brew with you in congrats--anytime! --- Dwayner...you're da'man, too. Don't get burned out there in the desert! See ya this autumn?? How 'bout some old fashioned rock...?? Quote
Rodchester Posted June 20, 2003 Posted June 20, 2003 My recollection of his Rainier record was that he spent something like 4 nights on the summit, sleeping in the crater before he went for the record. Obviously, this would have left him well acclimatized. At the time he was a climbing ranger for MRNP. At least this is what I recall....don't quote me and correct me if I'm wrong. Quote
Mike_Gauthier Posted June 20, 2003 Posted June 20, 2003 nice job chadwick... hey rodchester, you're off a bit. chad climbed the mountain 4 times in ONE day. that is, 4 times from camp muir to the summit and back in under 24 hours. he did that a few weeks before his round trip speed ascent. island1 is correct, chad's word is solid. he wouldn't make this up, especially after all the scrutiny over other recently claimed speed ascents. having other reputable climbers verfiy this trip will only add to his credibility. glad to see that he showed up with real people as timers/witnesses. as for other speed ascents on mac... i don't think that chad doing his speed climb takes anything away from what they have done on mckinley in the past. in my opinion, it only compliments and acknowledges their feats. i'd like to think that they'd be stoked for him. also, it's my understanding of chad that he greatly respects and admires what they've done. again chad, hats off. good luck in asia and can't wait to see you on rainier! mike Quote
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