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Posted

I had to rap off a big chockstone into a chimney the other day and it was awkward as hell. I ended up slipping, flipping and taking the skin off my left elbow. Got any ideas other than going slowly and carefully?

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Posted

I don't think you're going to get a "one size fits all" answer to this kind of a question. It sounds as if you may have made some kind of operator error, but some raps are just plain awkward no matter what you do -- like the bear-hug start to a rap from standing on a tree growing out of the cliff.

Posted
Cpt.Caveman said:

Leave your pack behind instead. What's the next question? - How to wipe my ass in the woods hahaha.gif

 

I prefer to crap while sitting on small diameter logs, but as I get older, I don't really want to spend as much time looking for that "perfect" place to take a dump, so I just squat, facing up hill (everybody knows shit rolls downhill, LOL) usually while clinging to a tree branch to keep my balance. Sometimes I'll even throw a handfull of snow, moss or a rock over it so nobody has to look at it when I'm done.

 

However, it looks like your question was mainly about how best to wipe though, so I'll address that too. In general, I usually am not very generous with the buttwipe as carying a lot in the pack is quite bulky. Although it's risky, I'll usually take a 4 square section and fold it in half twice, ending up with a quadruple layer of mountain money. I know this isn't as thick as a lot of you saftey geeks like, but, it's an acceptable risk level for me. Anyway, I'll generally wipe front to back folding the TP in half each time until I am uncomfortable with the exposure, no more than 3 folds ever hellno3d.gif it's just too small and risky for getting stank on your fingers. Using this method, I can usually get the task done using no more than 12 squares total. moon.gif

 

Leaves are a different story all together, big leaf's are preffered obviously, but I've heard stories of pinecones being used. If you're above tree line, it's my opinion that if you don't have TP or an article of clothing you're willing to sacrifice (make a half shirt, or a long sleeve a short sleeve), you'd better make it a clean shot in the first place.

 

As far as rapping chimneys, it's a bad idea in the first place, too much chance of getting ropes caught, knocking down more rocks or getting yourself hung/beat up (like you did).

 

 

Posted

You said you flipped over: That's generally because you have to much weight up top. Unless my pack is veeery light, i hang it from a 'biner attached to my belay loop any time I am doing a steep rappell. Otherwise you are fighting the weight of your pack doing situps the whole way down.

 

The only down side is that your pack can knock things off on the way down. More of an issue, the more slabby it gets.

 

matt

 

Posted

CBS: Schurman Rock is scheduled to reopen very soon. There's a chimney on one side. I would suggest you go there and practice, practice, practice.

 

I agree with Mattp. There are easy rappels and hard rappels. For me, the difficulty is usually either the step-off at the top or when one has to rap one way but the slant of the rock goes another. In this latter case, the sideways force (pendulum factor) gets annoying but is obviously easier to deal with once you get most of the way down. My other problem is usually not being able to go fast enough at the top (my Trango Jaws belay [rappel] device is to blame here).

 

I can't say if my rappelling technique is good or bad but I do know I like doing it and I've never flipped over, so I must be doing something right. I have however had a foot slip out , rammed a shoulder, and rotated into the rock on occassion. Par for the course.

Posted
catbirdseat said:

That's it! Why didn't I think of that? Ask Santa, the unrivaled expert on chimney descents.

 

yeah and santa does it w/that big ol' pack of his wink.gif

Posted
Bronco said:

Cpt.Caveman said:

Leave your pack behind instead. What's the next question? - How to wipe my ass in the woods hahaha.gif

 

I prefer to crap while sitting on small diameter logs, but as I get older, I don't really want to spend as much time looking for that "perfect" place to take a dump, so I just squat, facing up hill (everybody knows shit rolls downhill, LOL) usually while clinging to a tree branch to keep my balance. Sometimes I'll even throw a handfull of snow, moss or a rock over it so nobody has to look at it when I'm done.

 

However, it looks like your question was mainly about how best to wipe though, so I'll address that too. In general, I usually am not very generous with the buttwipe as carying a lot in the pack is quite bulky. Although it's risky, I'll usually take a 4 square section and fold it in half twice, ending up with a quadruple layer of mountain money. I know this isn't as thick as a lot of you saftey geeks like, but, it's an acceptable risk level for me. Anyway, I'll generally wipe front to back folding the TP in half each time until I am uncomfortable with the exposure, no more than 3 folds ever hellno3d.gif it's just too small and risky for getting stank on your fingers. Using this method, I can usually get the task done using no more than 12 squares total. moon.gif

 

Leaves are a different story all together, big leaf's are preffered obviously, but I've heard stories of pinecones being used. If you're above tree line, it's my opinion that if you don't have TP or an article of clothing you're willing to sacrifice (make a half shirt, or a long sleeve a short sleeve), you'd better make it a clean shot in the first place.

 

As far as rapping chimneys, it's a bad idea in the first place, too much chance of getting ropes caught, knocking down more rocks or getting yourself hung/beat up (like you did).

 

 

Dude, nothing works better than a couple of snowballs. Now it's a bit chilly mind you, a little pucker factor there, but I guarantee your ass will never be cleaner than after you get done wiping w/ a couple of snowballs. grin.gif

Posted
catbirdseat said:

...I ended up slipping, flipping and taking the skin off my left elbow...

Never had that problem. Maybe you could find a support group for spastics. Best you can get here is unbridled sarcasm and ridicule.

Posted

to stick up for cat turd, rapping chimneys can be a bit awkward sometimes, especially when there's a large chalkstone. I suggest going really slow and balancing yourself with your free hand, maybe keeping your feet off the rock till you get past the obstacle. Another option is to stem with your feet on both sides. Definately just take your time and don't be afraid to look wimpy while doing it. Maybe Try sitting on the edge of the chimney and easying yourself down slowly.

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