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telemarker

Protection preference

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The more pitches I get under me, the safer I feel during a fall. If I can fall the length of my rope and not hit the ground, that's a good thing.

Most of my falls were during first ascents. A lot of those lines just didn't go the way I thought they would. I didn't know for sure until I pushed it as far as I could go. Somehow, though, I just never got excited about crags like the Coulee. It's better than not climbing. But if there is a big route or an alpine ascent to do, I'm not gonna be climbing or training on a crag.

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Dru said:i figured it would be a good way to point out even falling at he crag is not "safe" and should be avoided whenever possible. a reference to the Kropp case is merely a cited instance of where a crag fall was demonstrably not safe. lots of others in ANAM. dunno what's so low about it.
thumbs_up.gif

 

 

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I think that cams can be placed faster... But I would prefer to use nut/stoppers, or the tricams; just because thats whats in my rack, I still haven't added any cams to it.... it seems that you can always find a place for micros... I have used cams and if they are tight they don't wory me, but ive placed some that im glad i didnt fall on, i can honestly say that this has not happened on nuts... Ive fallen on nuts and have never had one pull...

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don't know why but i always go for nuts or other passive pro before cams. A good placement is a placement regardless and that's what counts.

 

Doesn't matter if it's a nut or cam that pulls if you fall on it. It just matters that it didn't hold.

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glassgowkiss said:

trojan thumbs_up.gifthe_finger.gif

that shit may fly with the euro chicks but durex is better.

yelrotflmao.gifwave.gif

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telemarker said:

The more I climb on lead, and inevitably the more I fall, I have come to appreciate good pro. Just a question to ask here: When climbing granite, would you rather fall on a bomber nut or a bomber cam of similar size? Do you feel better climbing above nut placements rather than cams?

 

Bomber passive pro. Nut or tricam.

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Anyone have the chance to fall on a tricam. I don't know why but I have a hard time trusting them. Sometimes thought they are the only piece that will offer any pro at all, even if just psychological.

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use them frequently, and took a 10-15' flight on one. also another pendulum fall, separate instance (i guess i'm not proud) cantfocus.gif. held and cleaned fine. bomber for granite and horizontal cracks. mmmmm, tricams bigdrink.gif

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When you have to lug your rack 10 miles and 5,000 ft to do a climb, I've come to appreciate how light nuts and tricams are compared to cams, especially big Camalots.

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