Bug Posted June 2, 2003 Posted June 2, 2003 The more pitches I get under me, the safer I feel during a fall. If I can fall the length of my rope and not hit the ground, that's a good thing. Most of my falls were during first ascents. A lot of those lines just didn't go the way I thought they would. I didn't know for sure until I pushed it as far as I could go. Somehow, though, I just never got excited about crags like the Coulee. It's better than not climbing. But if there is a big route or an alpine ascent to do, I'm not gonna be climbing or training on a crag. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted June 2, 2003 Posted June 2, 2003 definitely climbing with a wad of nuts and qdraws light efficient and safe in granite Quote
Attitude Posted June 2, 2003 Posted June 2, 2003 Dru said:i figured it would be a good way to point out even falling at he crag is not "safe" and should be avoided whenever possible. a reference to the Kropp case is merely a cited instance of where a crag fall was demonstrably not safe. lots of others in ANAM. dunno what's so low about it. Â Â Quote
Fejas Posted June 2, 2003 Posted June 2, 2003 I think that cams can be placed faster... But I would prefer to use nut/stoppers, or the tricams; just because thats whats in my rack, I still haven't added any cams to it.... it seems that you can always find a place for micros... I have used cams and if they are tight they don't wory me, but ive placed some that im glad i didnt fall on, i can honestly say that this has not happened on nuts... Ive fallen on nuts and have never had one pull... Quote
minx Posted June 2, 2003 Posted June 2, 2003 don't know why but i always go for nuts or other passive pro before cams. A good placement is a placement regardless and that's what counts. Â Doesn't matter if it's a nut or cam that pulls if you fall on it. It just matters that it didn't hold. Quote
lummox Posted June 2, 2003 Posted June 2, 2003 glassgowkiss said: trojan that shit may fly with the euro chicks but durex is better. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 13, 2003 Posted June 13, 2003 telemarker said: The more I climb on lead, and inevitably the more I fall, I have come to appreciate good pro. Just a question to ask here: When climbing granite, would you rather fall on a bomber nut or a bomber cam of similar size? Do you feel better climbing above nut placements rather than cams? Â Bomber passive pro. Nut or tricam. Quote
JackY Posted June 13, 2003 Posted June 13, 2003 Â Anyone have the chance to fall on a tricam. I don't know why but I have a hard time trusting them. Sometimes thought they are the only piece that will offer any pro at all, even if just psychological. Quote
lunger Posted June 13, 2003 Posted June 13, 2003 use them frequently, and took a 10-15' flight on one. also another pendulum fall, separate instance (i guess i'm not proud) . held and cleaned fine. bomber for granite and horizontal cracks. mmmmm, tricams Quote
catbirdseat Posted June 16, 2003 Posted June 16, 2003 When you have to lug your rack 10 miles and 5,000 ft to do a climb, I've come to appreciate how light nuts and tricams are compared to cams, especially big Camalots. Quote
thelawgoddess Posted June 18, 2003 Posted June 18, 2003 Cpt.Caveman said: Bomber passive pro. Nut or tricam. Â my first choice(s) too. Quote
Gordonb Posted June 18, 2003 Posted June 18, 2003 Nothing feels as good as sinking a nut in a wet crack. Quote
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