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Eerie

Testpieces for a Grade

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NOT REALLY

 

I THINK PEOPLE MICRO MANAGE THE SPORT TOO MUCH, AND IN MORE ASPECTS THEN JUST GRADES.

 

SIMPLIFY IS ALL I AM SAYING.

 

I WOULD PREFER NOT TO IMPOSE LIMITATIONS ON MYSELF IN AN EFFORT TO HOPEFULLY RISE TO THE CALL. GRANTED I GET SHUT DOWN ALL THE TIME, BUT ATLEAST I TRY!

 

 

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that is all and well with sport climbs and well protected tratd routes...but ratings are important for less protectable climbs where a fall can kill you easily... that point is unavoidable...i agree that grades are fucking dumb...but they are necessary so that we know where we are capable of pushing our limits when the gear might be less than stellar...

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I think the subjectiveness of grades doesn't get enough attention. I've seen a lot of taller guys reach right past hard spots then come away saying the climb was 5.whatever. But I know it was harder for me, and yet still gets the same 5. whatever grade.

 

Cracks are really subjective. I'm good at wedging stubby body parts into cracks, but if you're small or boney a crack I think is easy could be real hard. Small cracks are the worst. For me every finger crack is 5.impossible, but for a girl the same crack might be more doable. For example the Incredible (not-a)handcrack was real hard for me, but someone with smaller hands would get killer jams and call it 'not to bad'.

 

Yeah grades are subjective, but they're like colors. Sure you're green might be my orange, but as long as we agree to call it green then everythings Ok. It doesn't matter so much what the objective truth is as much as where we fit in to the scheme of things so we can avoid getting in over our head.

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I TRY MY HARDEST EVERYTIME I CLIMB....

 

WELL ACTUALLY I DONT, BUT I GET WHAT YER SAYIN.

 

ENJOY.

 

 

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Sloth_Man said:

Sure you're green might be my orange, but as long as we agree to call it green then everythings Ok.

take some more mushsmile.gif while you can.....

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My def of a testpiece:

An asthetic classic line with hard but characteristic moves and protection for the grade. The route need not be incorrectly graded but should be stout and provide a good variety of moves and techniques necessary to be able to climb all other routes at that grade.

Obviously there are few 5.9's, for instance, with .9 chimneys, ..9 friction, 9 OW, .9 face, and .9hand and finger cracks all in the same x amount of feet. Once you can lead a true test piece you are probably ready for the easiest climbs of the next grade that have similar type climbing on them.

 

Some of my fav trad examples

Yos- Steck Salathe 5.9

Beacon Rock- Free for Some .11a

" "- Free for All 5.8

Leavenworth- Damnation Crack 5.9

Index- Godzilla 5.9+

 

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damnation kicked my ass this week! sheesh... us skinny boy s have difficulties with that wide stuff... i layed back most of it... hellno3d.gif

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It's all about the feet FS. One foot in the crack and the other on the face to the right. Up higher I could see how being a shorter person might make it difficult to chimney up in certain sections but nothing a little good technique practice couldn't change.

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I think Tex's definition is laudable but makes finding a 'testpiece' almost impossible. I think if you subdivide it into grade and climbing type, then you can get good testpieces. The 5.x climbtype testpiece should have much sustained 5.x climbtype climbing.

 

So, here's a few

 

Godzilla : 5.9 corner

Shock Treatment: 5.10 slab

Breakfast of Champions: 10a handcrack

Klahanie Crack: 5.6 handcrack

Sloe Children 5.10 thin crack

Old Gray Mare 5.8 face

Damnation 5.9 wide cracks

Canary p1 5.8 weird

 

 

bigdrink.gif

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texplorer said:

It's all about the feet FS. One foot in the crack and the other on the face to the right. Up higher I could see how being a shorter person might make it difficult to chimney up in certain sections but nothing a little good technique practice couldn't change.

 

it aint my feet...my arms are small and long...that aint good for OW...at all... plus i haven't climbed in 5-6 months...so i am not exactly strong right now...

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OK, then if that's the case it ain't no testpiece! smile.gif

 

First pitch of Outer Space crack = 5.7 crack testpiece

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Dru said:

sopmewhere lost in my dead email files from old work is the McLane rant about "Squamish parochialism" claiming that we shouldn't be afraid to rate our routes highly so they are on a par with overgraded piles elsewhere confused.gif

 

This "rant" applies quite nicely, I think.

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texplorer said:

Lay backing is poor form for crack climbing. tch tch

 

"the technique of no technique" yellaf.gif

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There must by some laybacking testpieces out there.

Anybody got any?

 

Zigzag pitch on NW Corner NEWS? 9

Spineless at Index 10 shocked.gif

 

There must be some at Squamish, but I haven't done 'em. That Perry's Layback looks way cool. Doesn't everybody layback the Split Pillar? Diedre and Apron Strings also seem to get the layback treatment (I have climbed those). HCL.gif

 

 

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SPLIT PILLAR IS A JAM CRACK OR SO I HEAR smirk.gif

 

and Perry's Lieback is really a diagonal undercling yellaf.gif

Edited by Dru

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chucK said:

There must by some laybacking testpieces out there.

 

It's been awhile, and its far away, but isn't La Casita at the base of El Cap a textbook 5.9 lieback?

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ScottP said:

Though short, I've always thought Bo Derek on Givler's was no giveaway.

 

Actually I thought that was pretty easy for 10b. At Index it would be 9+.

 

Here are some more that I think should qualify as "testpieces for the grade"

 

The Trough at Tahquitz 5.0

The Green Wall at Seneca 5.7

crux pitch on Serpentine Arete 5.8

Offline at Static 5.9

The 3rd Pitch of Direct East Buttress, SEWS 5.9+

Light on the Path: Smith 5.10a

Sketchatarius (first full pitch): Index 5.10a

Moons of Pluto Smith 10d

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chucK said:

There must by some laybacking testpieces out there.

Anybody got any?

Isn't the Enduro Corner on Astroman a rough .11 layback with few rests?

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Alex said:

ScottP said:

Though short, I've always thought Bo Derek on Givler's was no giveaway.

 

Actually I thought that was pretty easy for 10b. At Index it would be 9+.

 

 

I've only done it once, so it was probably just me.

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I think Iron Horse is a testpiece 11+. I've climbed quite a few 12- trad routes and I still think Iron horse is stout! Also full Japanese Gardens is no softy for the grade! Most of my trad climbing as of recent has been at Eldo and I think Index has a solid letter grade even on it.

 

dale

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texplorer said:

Lay backing is poor form for crack climbing. tch tch

sometimes the only way up.....

you give a nice description for testpiece climb but you

forgot stare out root for days maybe years... dreaming endlessly...many sleepless nites and altercations in life because not trying to send root... ususally the lead is mentally taxing and causes great sweating and perhaps thrutching.

I hear ROTC or Supercrack is good for this.....

 

chucK- canary is not weird. You are.

outerspace is not a testpiece crack it is outerspace.

Godzilla : 5.9 corner

Damnation: 5.8++

Breakfast of Champs 5.10

the overhang (PP-orchard rx) 5.8

George&martha

 

InMYveryHumbleOPinion ALl worthy (legit) testpieces!

go get em

bigdrink.gif

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