Eerie Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 I saw the following post on a GUNKS forum..... anyone interested in adding their Northwest Testpieces??? "When you've led a testpiece route, that means you're definitely ready for the next grade. Give the rating it's a testpiece of, the route name, and a short description of what makes it so fearsome at its grade. No spoilers! Here's an example: 5.8 Yellow Belly - Rated 5.9 in the red guide! Thin face climbing to some overhangs, a baffling off-width -- and that's just the warm-up pitch. Then comes some superthin face climbing, more overhangs and one of the most puzzling, exposed moves in the Gunks. Rack up!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fence_Sitter Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 princely ambitions wasn't that 5.8 originally? midway 5.4 (now 5.5) thin fingers (10a first pitch) dunno...i think it is pretty subjective on you strenghts and weaknesses tho... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sayjay Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 Braille Book 5.8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 Princely was 5.8 until a huge flake came off in 1991 or so. I've seen it regraded at 5.9, 5.9+ and 5.10a. I'd go with 5.9+. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 I'm a little unclear if they're talking about "testpieces" or "sandbags." Sure you're ready for the next grade if you lead something rated 5.8 thats really 5.9, or do they mean a route that beautifully exemplifies the given grade? I think the second makes a far more interesting list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fence_Sitter Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 (edited) mvs said: Princely was 5.8 until a huge flake came off in 1991 or so. I've seen it regraded at 5.9, 5.9+ and 5.10a. I'd go with 5.9+. makes sense... i was thinking it felt like spretty spicy 5.8 where di dthe flake come off do you know? Edited May 13, 2003 by Fence_Sitter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 RIGHT AFTER YOU MAKE THAT LITTLE FACE TRAVERSE RIGHT AND THEN START UP THE RAMP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 The flake used to be in an area of lighter colored rock (now) about 15' before you start traversing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 Though short, I've always thought Bo Derek on Givler's was no giveaway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sphinx Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 Canary seemed kinda interesting for 5.8. But I think it used to be 5.7, so maybe I'm just weak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eerie Posted May 13, 2003 Author Share Posted May 13, 2003 Is a Testpiece?....a route that has several or more qualities that typify routes of higher grades. i.e. pumpy, requires good pro placement skills, exposure,...etc??? Isn't the route Stevens Pass Motel often considered a Leavenworth testpiece? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 A testpiece is the hardest MF'er possible at the Grade. Unfortunately Kevin McLane has destroyed most of ours at Squamish. A good exception is Orifice Fish, 5.9. Or Another Tourist In Traction, 5.9 Or even Payanoia 5.9 I read somewhere 5.9, 5.10+ and 5.11d are the most common sandbag grades Reluctance to go up the number. Nowadays the trend is reversed, 11c gets called 12a Looks good on your 8a.nu scorecard We still got em in the alpine though: Yak Crack - original grade 5.8 South Ridge of Gimli - original grade 5.7 Widowmaker Arete - originally "4th and 5th class" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fence_Sitter Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 Dru said: A testpiece is the hardest MF'er possible at the Grade. Unfortunately Kevin McLane has destroyed most of ours at Squamish. A good exception is Orifice Fish, 5.9. Or Another Tourist In Traction, 5.9 Or even Payanoia 5.9 I read somewhere 5.9, 5.10+ and 5.11d are the most common sandbag grades Reluctance to go up the number. Nowadays the trend is reversed, 11c gets called 12a Looks good on your 8a.nu scorecard We still got em in the alpine though: Yak Crack - original grade 5.8 South Ridge of Gimli - original grade 5.7 Widowmaker Arete - originally "4th and 5th class" did mc Lane re-grade routes at squish? or did he simply grad his routes soft? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 He's been busy regrading stuff. My fave is Triage Arete. Used to be 5.9 trad (scary) and he retrobolted it and upped the grade to 5.10. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fence_Sitter Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 snoboy said: He's been busy regrading stuff. My fave is Triage Arete. Used to be 5.9 trad (scary) and he retrobolted it and upped the grade to 5.10. waaaa?!?! that makes no sense...was the climb SERIOUSLY overgraded or is he just mad... if you ertro-bolt a trad climb AND bump up the grade somehting is wrong!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 sopmewhere lost in my dead email files from old work is the McLane rant about "Squamish parochialism" claiming that we shouldn't be afraid to rate our routes highly so they are on a par with overgraded piles elsewhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 I CLIMB ROCKS, NOT NUMBERS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fence_Sitter Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 that makes sense... lets get even farther away form the original ratings (yosemite) i havne't climbed that many crag spots, but the only one i see as right on is index...some of the older stuff in leavenworth is there too, but lots of the newer stuff is kinda soft...i just like index cause i know where i stand on any given climb...i dont have to take into account 'softness' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fence_Sitter Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 erik said: I CLIMB ROCKS, NOT NUMBERS. yeah, but if you only climb rocks and hop on DDD and f-in die...then you wont be climbing shit... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 WHAT DOES THE GRADE HAVE TO DO WITH ME DYING IF I MESS UP? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 erik said: I CLIMB ROCKS, NOT NUMBERS. good for you ERIK, but for those of us not strong enough to climb anything we walk up to, it is nice to have some idea of what we are getting into. i don't really give a damn after the fact, except it is fun to onsight something "harder" than you have ever done before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eerie Posted May 13, 2003 Author Share Posted May 13, 2003 Sure you're ready for the next grade if you lead something rated 5.8 thats really 5.9, or do they mean a route that beautifully exemplifies the given grade? OW - list it up and give a reason why....its as subjective as a routes grade.....that is "until the majority agree." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 DONT GET ME WRONG I DO NOT CLIMB ALL THAT WELL, BUT I DO NOT USE A NUMBER TO GAGE MYSELF EVER. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fence_Sitter Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 erik said: WHAT DOES THE GRADE HAVE TO DO WITH ME DYING IF I MESS UP? take DDD i will tak emy chances with a sketchily protected 5.8-9...but something in the 12's i will die... that is what i mean... fuck i am not just gonn try and free green dragon...ya know? it's kinda improtant to knwo what you are in for... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth_Man Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 There were a couple of 5.6 offwidths I couldn't do in Veedavu. There's the 5.7/8/9 chimney on the triple direct. Still the hardest 5.7/8/9 I've done. For a real test piece I think it shouldn't be a sandbag. Goliath at Suicide is a testpiece 5.7 chimney. Sampson right next to it is a good 5.7 testpiece with a 5.9pg mantle at the top. Serpentine next to that is a good 5.9 slab testpiece. Seems like all the routes at castle rock are sandbags not testpieces. Let's see.... Werks up in Eldo Canyon is probably a testpiece 5.8. As is the Bastille crack next to it at 5.7. The 5.8 pitch on White Punks on Dope at the needles is probably a test piece. The headwall pitch on the South Face of Warlock needle is a 5.7 testpiece once you've pulled the 5.9/10a crux at the bottom. Chrimson Chrysalis has some 5.8 testpiece pitches on it (wow does it get any better than that?). There's so many more I just haven't worked up the ball sack to climb yet. Like: The Crack of Fear. Anything at Indian Creek. Entrance Exam and Midterm at Yosemite, or should I say everything in the valley except for the easy ones like Nutcracker. I think a test piece should be close to a full ropelength, taking natural pro or having pg runouts on bolts. It should be continously difficult at it's rating. It needs to challenge the climber physically and mentally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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